Jump to content

2015 HD 6.0 started by itself


JoshC

Recommended Posts

Posted

Put a bag in the back seat of my truck (parked in the garage) and walked back in the house to get something else. I was walking back toward the garage and I heard something click then my truck started by itself. It ran for a few second then shut off. I was a little freaked out thinking someone was in the garage stealing it. The key was half way out of the ignition and the other one was on the kitchen counter. Truck doesn't have remote start so I don't know what that was all about! I can't find any other issues like this, but it's kind of a hard subject to search for. Anyone else heard of this???

Posted

Looks like the transformers are real :). Never heard of this issue very weird

 

 

Ryan

Posted

LOL, true! It was early this morning, about 615 when this happened. I was carrying my laptop bag with me when it happened and I dropped it and walked in the garage pistol drawn ready for go time.

 

In all seriousness, if it can start by itself something is really bad wrong. Would/could it be related to onstar? I've not activated it on this truck.

Posted

That's not good at all. I'd park it outside until you can get it looked into. God for bid it would start in the garage again when everyone is sleeping. That would be a lot of CO produced. Make sure you CO detectors have good batteries.

 

 

 

Tapatalk via Moto X

Posted

It hasn't happened since....that I know of. I do have a CO monitor in the garage for safety.

 

I dialed up On Star and told them what happened and asked if they had any kind of a record of commands sent to my vehicle. Of course they wouldn't tell me. The passed me on to GM Service Center. Young lady on the phone had never heard of such a thing and told me I must have hit the remote start button. Good thought, but I don't have remote start nor do I have the On Star app. They suggested I call my local dealer. I have a good friend that is the service manager at a local dealer so I called him. He was shocked to hear of such a thing and unlike the others I talked with he didn't think I was going crazy. He called Chevy and their first reaction was that it was a radio signal of some sort-could be. He asked for my VIN to investigate further. So for now I'll wait. I've had the truck for 5 weeks now and have got almost 10,000 miles on it and knock on wood it's been good on everything else.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Yes I travel a lot for work. So far they haven't got me an answer. Dealer said there is a engineer at Chevy looking into it. I don't think i'll get an answer unless we can catch it in the act.

Posted

Everytime I crawl under my 50's weekend car I think about Christine, and hope my car loves me.. Maybe you have a modern version.. Certainly wouldn't tie my shoe infront of it! But on a serious note, I would guess a freak signal from Onstar, or a glitch in the system.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,842
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    CaptainDad
    Newest Member
    CaptainDad
    Joined
  • Who's Online   4 Members, 0 Anonymous, 484 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I like the idea.  I would pick diesel if I had a choice. I need pictures though.
    • I've installed cheap eBay new aftermarket digitizers before.  They work.  Did a bunch of Cadillac CUE (aka Cadillac's MyLink) for someone years ago.  They all worked fine after the repair.    That number 22740886, that is a component part # for GM.  You can use it to search, but its not something that's obtainable at the dealer level.     So pretty much any of these will work - 2015 Colorado Digitizer for sale | eBay
    • Black bumper and the later years Z-71 style color matched grille.
    • You can install tailpipes that direct the exhaust sideways vs the OEM one that goes straight back. There are several on the market, do you own research. HOWEVER, you need to make sure the Venturi vents are still intact, otherwise it will throw a engine code. There is a sensor somewhere that detects back pressure on the exhaust. And if it doesn't collect the correct metrics, it will throw the truck into limp mode. 
    • "Teardown" is complete. Head surfaces are clean and ready, new intake is prepped and ready. Coolant drained and water pump is removed, radiator is removed, new hoses and pump are ready.   The replacement intake is also from a '95 (with I think 260k, the odometer said). Noticeably less pitting where it covers the rear coolant passages. I'm not sure if that's a tribute to more frequent use, more frequent coolant changes/upkeep, or if the intake was machined at some point. But it appears I found a good one.   My coolant hoses were original, and the lower hose still retained the factory spring inside. It's not really rusty, but it's got deposits all over it. Unsure if I should re-install it (will thoroughly clean it first). Someone said hose technology has gotten better since 1995 (has it?) and I don't need the spring. I think modern EPDM is what made those hoses last from 1995-2026, so it's a question of how much suction can the water pump really pull, and will it collapse the hose without a spring?   I'm stopped and waiting for parts, however.   When I first brought the truck home, the fan was intermittently hitting the radiator shroud. I could see someone had monkeyed with the shroud (put a bunch of cardboard as a spacer between the upper/lower shroud halves. Someone said the motor mounts have likely failed and the engine has sagged. I wasn't sure I believed that. The engine is really solid in its mounts: To remove the old intake I *just* nearly permanently welded to the heads with freshly cured RTV and gasket snot two weeks ago, I literally had to use the arms on my lift and a chain with a bolt attached to the intake to pull it loose. It almost picked the front of the truck off the ground before ....scuuuuuuuuuuup.... I could actually hear the gaskets tearing and it broke loose and the whole truck settled back down. Motor barely moved.   SO, those parts I'm waiting on... The lower radiator mounts/bushings had completely failed. The radiator needs to be insulated from the rad support, and the bushings help the rad stand at the correct height. The plastic "baffle" was also destroyed at some point. Someone had attached the shroud to it incorrectly, overlapping a joint that should have been underlapped, creating another suspect issue potentially causing things to hit the fan. Broken tabs, side is busted off, and it's perma-formed/bent where it was jimmied incorrectly.   The baffle? Unobtainum. Long since discontinued from GM, of course. Aftermarket/capa/chinese? Also unobtanium. In GM's infinite wisdom, it appears there are at least two different variations whether the Blazer is 2 or 4 door, and I can't yet tell if they shared the same part with the S-pickups. Plan B, if I can't find a viable used one, will be to create a bracket to re-assemble the critical joint I need to seal a gap with the shroud. But that will bug me, it won't be...perfect.   The water pump bolts appear to have been installed with...plumber's putty. I guess, sure, if it works...? I've found a few "backyard fixes" like that. Someone's been here before....   If I can't find someone to jam bamboo under my fingernails to fill my free time this week I think I'll install the driver's power window motor and replace the rear door speaker that's inop. I've got a genuine GM "9.5" ohm working replacement. Why GM used a non-standard resistance....nevermind. Of course they did, you can get more sound from a cheap factory amp that way.   And the saga goes on...
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...