Jump to content

Mike1220's 2014 Sierra


Mike1220

Recommended Posts

Posted

 

Here's some more pics:

 

In the pics where everything is extremely dark, I turned the exposure/brightness way down before taking the picture. Basically like looking through extremely dark sunglasses.

 

 

post-127147-14128120397_thumb.jpg

 

 

 

Looks good. You going to swap the stock reverse bulb with anything?

I have not had the stock reverse bulbs in for a few months now. I changed those out not long after getting the truck. I used some 50W Cree LEDs from Ebay. I have a picture of them at the very beginning of this thread.

 

 

 

They don't look it in this picture but they are pure white. Match the dome lights and LED DRLs perfectly.

post-127147-14128120397_thumb.jpg

post-127147-14128120397_thumb.jpg

post-127147-14128120397_thumb.jpg

  • Replies 757
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Posted

Off-Topic a bit... Did you swap the license plate lights out with anything?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

Off-Topic a bit... Did you swap the license plate lights out with anything?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes. Some cheap oh lights from Ebay. These:

 

 

 

Link:

 

Except I bought a pack of 10 instead of 20. I usually buy these in sets so I can sell them to friends or Incase if one goes out or what not

 

 

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=251370483066

 

Edit:

 

I like these more than the expensive ones becuase these are pretty dim so they don't add abunch of light on the back of the truck. So it's just enough to get some on the license plate and not near enough to make 2 odd looking triangular shapes on the back of the truck when they are on.

Posted

Yes. Some cheap oh lights from Ebay. These:

 

attachicon.gifImageUploadedByTapatalk1412813490.154814.jpg

 

Link:

 

Except I bought a pack of 10 instead of 20. I usually buy these in sets so I can sell them to friends or Incase if one goes out or what not

 

 

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=251370483066

Thanks for the link!

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

 

post-127147-141290932907_thumb.jpg

 

 

Finally got the amp research boards on! Now just need to lift it so they can be more useful [emoji41]

post-127147-141290932907_thumb.jpg

post-127147-141290932907_thumb.jpg

post-127147-141290932907_thumb.jpg

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

post-127147-141421873046_thumb.jpgpost-127147-141421874028_thumb.jpg

 

Well after 2.5 hours of working in the truck, I finally have my color changing floor lights for while I'm driving! Chances are they will almost always stay on red to match the dash lights, and I have a 30" behind the grille. Not completely finished with the light bar. Need to go pick up an strip of angled aluminum to mount to the radiator supports and then to the bar to hold it in proper placement. Right now it is holding with Zip ties for the night. Not going anywhere till it gets bolted on properly tomorrow

 

 

Here's a link to the bar!

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=291268092141

post-127147-141421873046_thumb.jpg

post-127147-141421874028_thumb.jpg

post-127147-141421873046_thumb.jpg

post-127147-141421874028_thumb.jpg

post-127147-141421873046_thumb.jpg

post-127147-141421874028_thumb.jpg

Posted

attachicon.gifImageUploadedByTapatalk1412809253.214278.jpg

 

LED tail lights! Will get some better pics when the sun goes down. And for anyone who says that these aren't much brighter than stock, they lied. These are much brighter IMO!

Mike, I really like those lights. I went on eBay but couldn't figure out which ones you bought (not really good with eBay searches). I came up with a list of about 25 lights, some smoke, but the red lens ones all look the same to me. Can you post a link to the ones you bought? Thanks in advance.

 

As I've said before, your truck keeps looking better and better!

Posted

Mike, I really like those lights. I went on eBay but couldn't figure out which ones you bought (not really good with eBay searches). I came up with a list of about 25 lights, some smoke, but the red lens ones all look the same to me. Can you post a link to the ones you bought? Thanks in advance.

 

As I've said before, your truck keeps looking better and better!

Here's a link

 

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=310989276337

 

Get on quick and purchase them! Seller says that he is down to his last set! They are great lights and really make the truck look a lot nicer. As I've said before, I'm still amazed that these didn't have LED lamps from the factory especially since abunch of vehicles (ESPECIALLY those with $50K price tags!!) come with LED tail lamps from the factory.

 

And thanks man! I'm trying! I'm making it stronger and "meaner" before I actually make it look bigger and meaner with a lift and all. I plan to get a tuner and possibly headers still before I lift.

 

Next few mods will be windshield tint, tuner, subs. About to call and make an appointment for the tint to go on this weekend. Subs will be soon after and tuner I should be ordering this weekend. Can't wait!

Posted

Thanks Mike for the quick reply. I'll definitely look into the lights.

 

My next mod was going to be a tune. Was all set to go with a Diablew tune. Then I started reading about warranty issues and got cold feet. Have you considered a tuner and the possible warranty issues?

Posted

Thanks Mike for the quick reply. I'll definitely look into the lights.

 

My next mod was going to be a tune. Was all set to go with a Diablew tune. Then I started reading about warranty issues and got cold feet. Have you considered a tuner and the possible warranty issues?

 

I have been putting off getting a tuner or getting the truck tuned because of possible warranty issues. Its a first year run and they are notorious for having issues so I don't want to lose the warranty, but then I read about the Magnuson Moss Warranty Act, dealer CAN NOT deny service unless they can prove that the issue is caused by the aftermarket equipment. Now I have been lucky to find a cool dealer that is not against most aftermarket equipment and I don't think they are against tuners. But if something happens and they try to deny me service, I will call upon the Magnuson Moss.

Also, I am thinking of getting the Diablo for a HUGE reason, it records and saves your stock tune so if I do feel like the dealer will not like the tuner, I can redownload the stock tune and all the dealer will ever know is that the computer has been accessed, but what happened they will never be able to tell. Once the stock tune is reprogramed into the truck it looks like another dealer just had to mess with the computer.

Posted

Just made an appointment to get the windshield tinted! Gonna bring it in to local tint shop this Saturday at 10. $95 gets my windshield done and it will have 45% put on it.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • If everything checks out at the MAF, then the MAF is BAD, new or not.   You don't need a signal generator to troubleshoot this. PCM needs ALL powers and ALL grounds able to light a halogen headlight bulb - if it can light the bulb bright, then the wiring is good enough to run the PCM.   Best thing you can do for yourself is spend some time here: scannerdanner.com - Check out all his YouTube videos on similar issues. If you decide to subscribe it's the best bang-for-buck ratio in the automotive world, hands-down. He's got TONS of free vids on YouTube, too.
    • Yes, I used my multimeter to probe all of the wires at the MAF, both with the sensor connected, sensor disconnected, key on engine off, key on engine running, etc etc etc. I probed all of the wires again at the PCM, at the connectors, etc. All voltages are what they should be according to the service manual/wiring diagrams. All grounds are good, less than 20 millivolts from the battery negative under load. Both at the connector of the MAF, at the PCM connector etc.      I know this throws a pretty big wrench into things, but this truck was acting up before the swap. I don't have very much information, if any on what was causing it, but if you cleared all of the dtcs it would do the same thing where it would crank, fire, then die. And it would do the same thing a dozen or so times, and eventually it would start and run, but the difference is that it would run and actually be drivable. Whereas now if you can drive it at all, it goes into reduced power mode almost immediately, and even then it's not running correctly. When you come to a stop at a light it stumbles down to for 500 RPM before catching itself and returning to the smooth idle. And if you go more than about 50% throttle then it immediately goes back to doing the misfire thing.    Like I said, I know that throws a wrench into things, and unfortunately I was not able to pull any data or anything like that before I did this work, so I don't have much to go on.    I'm trying to not fixate on one particular thing as the cause of the problem, but it seems like all avenues are pointing me towards the PCM. Like I said I have tested the wiring extensively (see above), and during cranking the sensor does produce seemingly legitimate values at least according to my multimeter, but as soon as the engine fires those values quickly descend into gibberish. I've tried it with multiple different known working sensors, I have done literally every test I can think of multiple times on the wiring (probing the signals, probing the pins with the sensors unplugged, probing the pins at the PCM, voltage drop, voltage drop under load, continuity, ohms, and double-checking everything against the wiring diagrams/ proper values in the service data.)    Another thing that pushes me towards a possible PCM failure is, I have noticed in troubleshooting a little bit taking a break and coming back, that when I leave the truck to sit for a while and cool off, it starts and runs smoothly when I first start it up. However once it warms up. It starts having problems. For example, when I went out to the truck this morning after it had been sitting overnight, I was actually able to drive it down the block. And then once I got on the throttle a Little bit after going about a thousand ft, it started misfiring again. I pulled it back into the driveway, shut it down, and started it back up. It idled smoothly. As soon as I touched the throttle it did the misfire thing again. From then on as soon as I started it it would misfire. I shut the truck off and went to go get a coffee and do a bit more research. When I came back out I started the truck up and it immediately went into the smooth idle. After a couple of minutes of playing around with it, it would not idle smoothly anymore. Let it sit a couple of hours, rinse and repeat. This makes me think with temperature change something is going wrong inside the PCM. I have the PCM out of the 2007 donor vehicle and I'm thinking of getting a one-day subscription to the ACDelco programming service to try and program that and see if it helps.   Like I said, I'm really trying to not fixate myself on one potential cause, but it seems everything is pointing me towards PCM failure. I would really like to try to confirm that, but unfortunately I don't have an oscilloscope or a signal generator to do the GM service procedure where you feed 5 khz into the signal pin. 
    • Ahh, sorry about that - I got some bad info. Newdude is correct. That's what I get for working 13 hours straight ... on my "vacation", lol.   Should've checked the files I had instead of the internet.   Anyway ... this is GREAT news, since this would've been an absolute friggin nightmare to get working.   I don't think the lack of VVT is causing this - you've got another issue. Wiring, I'm betting.   I'm telling you right now, your computer isn't bad. If it worked before the swap, it's working now. You need to do some more (better) diagnostics and figure out exactly what you're missing. Did you test every wire directly at the MAF? Have 5V reference? Ground? If you're reading ZERO g/s, your Hz isn't much use - it's going to be the wrong value anyway. The MAF is not working, and you need to find out WHY.   I got this off the net, so VERIFY first: Pin A: Black (BLK) wire, Circuit 552, serves as the Sensor Return (Ground).  Pin B: Tan (TAN) wire, Circuit 472, carries the Intake Air Temperature (IAT) signal.  Pin C: Yellow (YEL) wire, Circuit 492, is the primary MAF Sensor Signal output to the PCM. Pin D: Pink (PNK) wire, Circuit 339 or 539, provides Ignition 1 Voltage (Power).  Pin E: Tan/Black wire, Circuit 552 or similar, often associated with the Intake Air Temperature ground or signal return.  Global-A list: https://postimg.cc/KKJnQC85    
    • Correct....the end user can't reach to Realtruck directly like they can if they purchase a Bak, Undercover, etc...  It has to go through a dealer.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...