Jump to content

First 2014 Direct injection Supercharged truck in the 12s

Boombastic

By Boombastic
in Racing, Strip, & Track

Recommended Posts

bgbdwlf2500 Enthusiast

bgbdwlf2500

Posted
Posted

I have a 2014 GMC crew cab Denali truck with a 6.2 L direct inject motor. I had Manny and the boys at Dasilva motorsports in Kitchener Ontario install the Magnuson TVS 1900 supercharger and a set of American racing headers. The truck Put down 320RWHP in stock form. The SC gave it 100 RWHP and the headers added about 30 hp more. Truck ran 14.7s in the 1/4 stock and then ran mid 13 with the SC. With the headers the truck got down to very low 13s. With just a bit more fine tuning by ARUN at dasilva's and a good launch in 4wd off the line then switching to 2wd, I got the truck to run several 12.9s. at 104 to 105 mph.

 

My Best was

60 ft .... 1.84\

1/8.....8.28 @ 83mph

1/4 ....12.94 @ 105mph

 

Theres no point in switching out of 4x4. its not coming out of 4x4 with that much load on it until you let off at the end. When i raced my duramax i just left it in 4x4 until the end of the track, put truck in neutral then switched back to 2wd while rolling. best i ever did in that truck on stock engine parts and just a tune and built trans was 13.10 @ 102 with a 1.8 60ft. used as daily driver for 40k miles before i traded it in

  • Replies 32
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Boombastic Enthusiast

Boombastic

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I had 3 duramaxrs before this one. The tcase in the dmax is different than the one in the Denali. They do go into 2wd even under load. Only way I could prove this was on straight snow-covered backroad and accelerate in 4wd at 50-75 % throttle for 1000 ft or so and with 4wd on it went straight and all 4 tires were workong( but boy did u ever have to hang on.lol). I then did the same run in four-wheel-drive and switch the 2 Wheel Drive and it was very easy to tell that even under load it went into 2wd as I damn near put the truck into the rhubarb patch. My second test was to take it to the Drag track and after ten runs in 4wd and then ten runs starting in 4wd and switching to 2wd during the run I gained .1 to .2 tenths every time.

  • 4 weeks later...
thetruck454 Enthusiast

thetruck454

Posted
Posted

I just ran my '15 and if you hit 2wd during first gear it will disengage on the 1-2 shift. I could tell because when I left it in you could feel it saping horsepower, and when I pulled it out the truck would launch hard and then still pull in 2nd, 3rd, etc

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • KARNUT
      Vehicle Payments

      By KARNUT · Posted

      This is interesting. My quote tagged here is different from my original quote. After I’m driving them longer. That isn’t me. I don’t talk that way. I definitely wouldn’t express myself that way. Interesting.
    • UrbanRage
      What have you done to your K2 today?

      By UrbanRage · Posted

      I have the same running boards on my truck and I do agree they are bulky. I also find myself stepping over them when getting in and out of the truck. Besides providing protection to the rocker panels, they aren't very useful.  I will be replacing them soon with the Amp Powersteps. 
    • ChristopherDobson
      Vehicle Payments

      By ChristopherDobson · Posted

      Monthly payment is only part of the equation. With today's prices and interest rates, I'd look at the total monthly cost: payment, insurance, registration, fuel, maintenance, and expected repairs. A vehicle that fits comfortably into your budget is usually the better choice than stretching for a higher trim. I've also kept my vehicles longer over the past few years. New cars have gotten expensive enough that driving one for 10+ years, while staying on top of maintenance, often ends up being the most cost-effective approach.
    • Grumpy Bear
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      10 Ford and Chevy engines proven to reach 300,000 miles   You may note a common 3K OCI on this list of gas motors. I skipped over the diesels. Dh'O. 
    • jake111
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By jake111 · Posted

      Thanks newdude!  By the time manual selection is needed, I'm probably too much of a control-freak to depend on the transmission sensing braking to activate automatic downshifting.  I would be anticipating the situation and already be manually downshifting.   This truck replaced a 2004.5 LLY diesel with the Allison 5-speed.  Putting it in T/H made noticeable differences (when the torque converter locked, upshift points, downshift behavior).  On this 2024 gasser with the 10L1000 I haven't been able to detect much, if any, difference.  Ok, I can never tell now when the torque converter locks up.  But I also don't notice differences in shifting.  For downhills, I've probably already manually downshifted by then anyway.  Since it's also more awkward (than the 2004.5) to engage/disengage I don't even bother.  Or maybe it doesn't really matter with just a 3k lb. camper in the bed?   Thanks also for the list of reasons the charging system might select various voltages.  However, what I am seeing doesn't fall into any of those categories.  It very definitely, and very consistently, rises after coasting/braking.  Maybe not immediately, but not very long after coasting/braking.  Very consistently drops voltage when no longer coasting/braking.  It might also be interacting with the camper battery charging (I might disconnect the camper and see if it changes the charging behavior).  I also need to recheck turning on headlights for when I want to force it to charge the camper.   Another JR, in June I converted the camper to LiFePO4.  Since it's not a good idea to try to charge lithiums directly using truck, I installed a Victron Orion XS DC-DC charger (which BTW is AMAZING!!).  Being cheap, I only had to buy that one item (besides the battery, of course) to do the conversion.  The camper OEM 120v battery charger (only 19 years old and works perfectly) and the truck feed the input to the DC-DC charger (not at the same time).  But I didn't want the camper charger feeding back to the truck so I kept the old separator.  I considered replacing the separator with a 30amp diode but that means more work and might add another 1/2 volt drop.  One thing that surprised me was the voltage drop over the long 10awg wire run, so I can only charge smoothly at 8 amps (because the DC-DC charger is completely configurable).  Another reason I don't want an added voltage drop with the diode.  I might also be a little lazy but all this work is being done under the sink with a small cabinet opening.    

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...