Jump to content

Which Axle 9.75 or 9.5

Antoine08

By Antoine08
in Engines & Drivetrain

 Share

Recommended Posts

DCOX Enthusiast

DCOX

Posted
Posted

Yup. My 2014 6.2 with 3.42 is stamped with a 9.76. I'll take a picture in a few

  • Replies 42
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Antoine08
Antoine08

Hey guys i answered my own question. To all you 6.2L owners it is said by GMDirect that we have the larger 9.75" Axle. so if you have the 3.42 gears, the GM 3.73 can be a direct replacement. Part numb

Posted Images

Jon A Senior Enthusiast

Jon A

Posted
Posted

Nice find! I hadn't noticed that--it's kind of hard to see even with a lift, I found taking a pic with my phone easiest. I confirmed my 2014 6.2 3.42 also has 9.76" written on it.

 

Of course this brings up a couple more questions. If the only difference between the 9.76" and 9.50" really is just the ring and pinion, why did they feel the need to cast 9.76" into the housing? Can anybody with a 5.3 non-NHT confirm they have 9.50" cast into their housing? I know it would make no sense for it not to, but that's never stopped GM before....

bowtie482 Enthusiast

bowtie482

Posted
Posted

Nice find! I hadn't noticed that--it's kind of hard to see even with a lift, I found taking a pic with my phone easiest. I confirmed my 2014 6.2 3.42 also has 9.76" written on it.

 

Of course this brings up a couple more questions. If the only difference between the 9.76" and 9.50" really is just the ring and pinion, why did they feel the need to cast 9.76" into the housing? Can anybody with a 5.3 non-NHT confirm they have 9.50" cast into their housing? I know it would make no sense for it not to, but that's never stopped GM before....

 

 

 

 

I have non max tow 5.3 with 9.50 on my housing.

Stoddard Enthusiast

Stoddard

Posted
Posted

Nice find! I hadn't noticed that--it's kind of hard to see even with a lift, I found taking a pic with my phone easiest. I confirmed my 2014 6.2 3.42 also has 9.76" written on it.

 

Of course this brings up a couple more questions. If the only difference between the 9.76" and 9.50" really is just the ring and pinion, why did they feel the need to cast 9.76" into the housing? Can anybody with a 5.3 non-NHT confirm they have 9.50" cast into their housing? I know it would make no sense for it not to, but that's never stopped GM before....

I don't know specs by any means but the axle shafts and differential covers appear to be the same p/n between axles. I'll bet the pinion gear spacing is different for the larger ring gear needing a longer pinion snout.

Jon A Senior Enthusiast

Jon A

Posted
Posted

I have non max tow 5.3 with 9.50 on my housing.

 

Thanks. We now have a confirmed easy way to tell them apart. I'm guessing since they went to the trouble of making different castings, the R&P are most likely not interchangeable so one will need to know for sure before buying gears.

  • 1 month later...
Rme2513 Enthusiast

Rme2513

Posted
Posted

The 14 and prior 6.2 came standard with 3.42 and the NHT came with 3.73 the 15 with the 8 speed come standard with 3.23 and the NHT comes with 3.42 and I'm guessing there all the 9.76 rear end

  • 2 years later...
Sean Bourgeois New Member

Sean Bourgeois

Posted
Posted

I know this post is a couple years old, but I thought I should add what my truck has to this. It's a 2013 Silverado 1500 cc 4x4 with the 6.2l code L9H and the NHT max tow package, 3.73 ratio, I noticed some of you posted a pic of the diff cover with 12 bolts, mine is a 14 bolt. Factory stock, bought it brand new. I can post a pic if anyone is still poking around on this conversation. let me know.

  • 3 months later...
David Crandall Enthusiast

David Crandall

Posted
Posted
On 11/30/2017 at 3:14 PM, Sean Bourgeois said:

I know this post is a couple years old, but I thought I should add what my truck has to this. It's a 2013 Silverado 1500 cc 4x4 with the 6.2l code L9H and the NHT max tow package, 3.73 ratio, I noticed some of you posted a pic of the diff cover with 12 bolts, mine is a 14 bolt. Factory stock, bought it brand new. I can post a pic if anyone is still poking around on this conversation. let me know.

Not sure if you found an answer or any more info about the axle in your 2013, it's been a few months.

For 2014 there was a redesign of the axle. The new version of the 9.5 only has 12 bolts in the cover, and the previous versions were all 14 bolt. Parts are not directly interchangeable between the 12 and 14 bolt versions. I'm looking into upgrading my 2000 extended cab to a crew cab in the near future and have been researching the differences, also looking to make sure I end up with better towing capability as well. 

The only differences I can find between the 14 and up 9.5 and the 9.76 is the gears and the pinion bearings. I'm guessing the 9.76 uses larger diameter pinion bearings, leading the the different castings in the housings. I can't find all the bearing numbers to compare their sizes to verify for sure.

  • 2 weeks later...
Barman84 Enthusiast

Barman84

Posted
Posted
On 11/11/2014 at 7:22 PM, Antoine08 said:

It will cost less than 1k. I love my 6.2L but i can't leave things alone i put a 2" leveling kit and 33" tires didn't really affect performance to much, but would like to get a little extra power. I will do the maintenance myself with a few buddies so only paying for parts and beer.

Dude I just had my truck front and rear regeared to 4.10s for 2100 out the door with 4wp...  call them they’ll run your bin and tell you that or pull yournVin with a parts rep at the dealership.

  • 4 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Jsdirt
      2010 Avalanche 5.3 not running correctly after engine swap.

      By Jsdirt · Posted

      If everything checks out at the MAF, then the MAF is BAD, new or not.   You don't need a signal generator to troubleshoot this. PCM needs ALL powers and ALL grounds able to light a halogen headlight bulb - if it can light the bulb bright, then the wiring is good enough to run the PCM.   Best thing you can do for yourself is spend some time here: scannerdanner.com - Check out all his YouTube videos on similar issues. If you decide to subscribe it's the best bang-for-buck ratio in the automotive world, hands-down. He's got TONS of free vids on YouTube, too.
    • Tyler Gibbs
      PF63 Oil Filters Going Away?

      By Tyler Gibbs · Posted

      You got that Hengst D110??
    • contrabombarde
      2010 Avalanche 5.3 not running correctly after engine swap.

      By contrabombarde · Posted

      Yes, I used my multimeter to probe all of the wires at the MAF, both with the sensor connected, sensor disconnected, key on engine off, key on engine running, etc etc etc. I probed all of the wires again at the PCM, at the connectors, etc. All voltages are what they should be according to the service manual/wiring diagrams. All grounds are good, less than 20 millivolts from the battery negative under load. Both at the connector of the MAF, at the PCM connector etc.      I know this throws a pretty big wrench into things, but this truck was acting up before the swap. I don't have very much information, if any on what was causing it, but if you cleared all of the dtcs it would do the same thing where it would crank, fire, then die. And it would do the same thing a dozen or so times, and eventually it would start and run, but the difference is that it would run and actually be drivable. Whereas now if you can drive it at all, it goes into reduced power mode almost immediately, and even then it's not running correctly. When you come to a stop at a light it stumbles down to for 500 RPM before catching itself and returning to the smooth idle. And if you go more than about 50% throttle then it immediately goes back to doing the misfire thing.    Like I said, I know that throws a wrench into things, and unfortunately I was not able to pull any data or anything like that before I did this work, so I don't have much to go on.    I'm trying to not fixate on one particular thing as the cause of the problem, but it seems like all avenues are pointing me towards the PCM. Like I said I have tested the wiring extensively (see above), and during cranking the sensor does produce seemingly legitimate values at least according to my multimeter, but as soon as the engine fires those values quickly descend into gibberish. I've tried it with multiple different known working sensors, I have done literally every test I can think of multiple times on the wiring (probing the signals, probing the pins with the sensors unplugged, probing the pins at the PCM, voltage drop, voltage drop under load, continuity, ohms, and double-checking everything against the wiring diagrams/ proper values in the service data.)    Another thing that pushes me towards a possible PCM failure is, I have noticed in troubleshooting a little bit taking a break and coming back, that when I leave the truck to sit for a while and cool off, it starts and runs smoothly when I first start it up. However once it warms up. It starts having problems. For example, when I went out to the truck this morning after it had been sitting overnight, I was actually able to drive it down the block. And then once I got on the throttle a Little bit after going about a thousand ft, it started misfiring again. I pulled it back into the driveway, shut it down, and started it back up. It idled smoothly. As soon as I touched the throttle it did the misfire thing again. From then on as soon as I started it it would misfire. I shut the truck off and went to go get a coffee and do a bit more research. When I came back out I started the truck up and it immediately went into the smooth idle. After a couple of minutes of playing around with it, it would not idle smoothly anymore. Let it sit a couple of hours, rinse and repeat. This makes me think with temperature change something is going wrong inside the PCM. I have the PCM out of the 2007 donor vehicle and I'm thinking of getting a one-day subscription to the ACDelco programming service to try and program that and see if it helps.   Like I said, I'm really trying to not fixate myself on one potential cause, but it seems everything is pointing me towards PCM failure. I would really like to try to confirm that, but unfortunately I don't have an oscilloscope or a signal generator to do the GM service procedure where you feed 5 khz into the signal pin. 
    • Jsdirt
      2010 Avalanche 5.3 not running correctly after engine swap.

      By Jsdirt · Posted

      Ahh, sorry about that - I got some bad info. Newdude is correct. That's what I get for working 13 hours straight ... on my "vacation", lol.   Should've checked the files I had instead of the internet.   Anyway ... this is GREAT news, since this would've been an absolute friggin nightmare to get working.   I don't think the lack of VVT is causing this - you've got another issue. Wiring, I'm betting.   I'm telling you right now, your computer isn't bad. If it worked before the swap, it's working now. You need to do some more (better) diagnostics and figure out exactly what you're missing. Did you test every wire directly at the MAF? Have 5V reference? Ground? If you're reading ZERO g/s, your Hz isn't much use - it's going to be the wrong value anyway. The MAF is not working, and you need to find out WHY.   I got this off the net, so VERIFY first: Pin A: Black (BLK) wire, Circuit 552, serves as the Sensor Return (Ground).  Pin B: Tan (TAN) wire, Circuit 472, carries the Intake Air Temperature (IAT) signal.  Pin C: Yellow (YEL) wire, Circuit 492, is the primary MAF Sensor Signal output to the PCM. Pin D: Pink (PNK) wire, Circuit 339 or 539, provides Ignition 1 Voltage (Power).  Pin E: Tan/Black wire, Circuit 552 or similar, often associated with the Intake Air Temperature ground or signal return.  Global-A list: https://postimg.cc/KKJnQC85    
    • parthery
      GM Hard Folding Tonneau by REV review

      By parthery · Posted

      Correct....the end user can't reach to Realtruck directly like they can if they purchase a Bak, Undercover, etc...  It has to go through a dealer.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...