Jump to content

Rear turn signal failure

Seagod

By Seagod
in Modifications & Accessories

Recommended Posts

Seagod Enthusiast

Seagod

Posted
Posted

I have a 2014 Silverado and recently had a rear turn/tail/brake light bulb go out and I have searched everywhere for a 7444 bulb for replacement and only found led replacements. When I replaced it with and led bulb I get a blinker failure message and then the lights rapidly blink. I have tried a decoder and that did nothing. Anyone know where to get 7444 replacement bulbs besides maybe the dealership?

00Silverado4x4 Senior Enthusiast

00Silverado4x4

Posted
Posted

I just did a quick search on Advance Auto's website, and they're showing a 7443 bulb. Is it possible to try that one to replace your bulb?

 

 

The LED replacement you put in has a lower resistance value vs the stock incandescent bulb so your truck think it's "burned out" and that's why you are getting a quick blinking problem. You either have to add a ballast resistor to make up for the resistance or find a different bulb to put back in the socket.

morrislee Enthusiast

morrislee

Posted
Posted

You will need resistors in parallel to the wire, from my LED conversion to stock housing was the green one of the 3 wires.

 

Each bulb you use LED you will need a resistor for it.

 

One end goes on the ground wire and the other goes to green for the resistor.

 

If it is for the front, I am not sure about the colors, but same thing, need resistors!

Seagod Enthusiast

Seagod

Posted
  • Author
Posted

In my book and on the bulb shows 7444 but I believe 7443 will work as well. The only 7444 and 7443 bulbs I can find are amber colored. I tried a led decoder but it did not work so I ordered resistors. I will see if they work.

Seagod Enthusiast

Seagod

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Morrislee, my wires on my 2014 silverado are green, gray and black. You know or anyone know what wires to put resistors on?

morrislee Enthusiast

morrislee

Posted
Posted

One end of the resistor to black, ome end of the resistor to green

 

Gree is the positive for signal, black is ground, wjite is positive for just the constand power for back lights which dont need resistor

Seagod Enthusiast

Seagod

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks, that worked great. Glad to finally get rid of the error message and fast blinking.

morrislee Enthusiast

morrislee

Posted
Posted

No problem! I have just noticed my last post was full of typos! I must have been so tired at that time LOL

Seagod Enthusiast

Seagod

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Have any recommendations on hid or led headlights and fog lights?

morrislee Enthusiast

morrislee

Posted
Posted

I recommand 55W if you can find them, 35W might be a little dark when the interior lights are at full. (If you have projector lens anyway, some silverado does not have them, please check!)

 

my fogs are: http://www.ebay.com/itm/131296739342?item=131296739342&viewitem=&sspagename=ADME:X:AAQ:MOTORS:1123&vxp=mtr

 

1150 LM, super bright, only got flashed like once though. slightly harder to wedge in because of the gasket design of these bulb type

  • 2 months later...
pkpouttu Enthusiast

pkpouttu

Posted
Posted

Anyone know where I could just buy resistors from and have experience doing so? I think one of mine is shot on my LED tails.

morrislee Enthusiast

morrislee

Posted
Posted

Anyone know where I could just buy resistors from and have experience doing so? I think one of mine is shot on my LED tails.

You can buy them on amazon or ebay :)

pkpouttu Enthusiast

pkpouttu

Posted
Posted

Been looking on eBay and only find the metal ones like I got on my front switchbacks. I'd prefer a plastic housing. Doesn't heat up like the front ones do.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Gkistler
      2015 Sierra Denali L86 cyl 5 misfire at idle

      By Gkistler · Posted

      Hi friends - first time poster. I have a 2015 sierra Denali with 150k miles, I’m the second owner and she’s given me 75k of great service. I run a pulse AFM disable device. Starting Thursday when I exited the freeway after a short local ride it started idling rough, with an obvious misfire shake and was down on low end power.  I got it home and hooked it up to my scannner and found no codes but in live data a pretty bad misfire on cylinder 5. I replaced the coil, plug and wire with all new OE replacements (Delphi gn10165 coil, acdelco wire and 41-168 plug). It’s still behaving the same way after firing the parts cannon at it.   I know cyl 5 is a non AFM cylinder so I am not thinking this is AFM related but I’m kinda at a loss. injector? Bent pushrod? It’s running too well over 1k rpm to suggest those IMO. Has anyone chase this issue before and what was it? Any suggestions? 
    • zibzer2
      Pulsating Noise 4Cyl Mode

      By zibzer2 · Posted

      2017 Silverado L83 5.3l 6speed transmission Hello, not a new member but havent posted in a while and my old signup info isnt working so had to create a new account. anyways, I have an issue with my truck and hope someone can spread some light on whats happening: -when it goes to 4cyl mode it makes a clunk sound (but not when coasting or going downhill) -when in 4 cyl mode and under load it makes a load pulsating sound (not a tick). -goes away completely when in M5 gear or when plugging in an AFM delete. Im guessing it is one of 2 things but im not convinced of either to be honest. 1. lifter stuck in v8 mode 2. torque converter shudder realistically it doesn't seem like the TC as there is no physical vibration , and it never happens in v8 mode. but maybe? and wouldnt a lifter make a sound whether with load or not? any ideas let me know please. thank you!  
    • Chuck FB
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      Which has made me wonder with the various engine failures of a few brands in the last few years, is it sub par materials such as lifters etc causing failures, or bearing clearances on the crank etc or perhaps bad designing of an engine physically or causing too much load on the components due to the hp/torque they can push out of them. Or is the oil viscosity and additive package of current oils or a lack of oil flow by an oil pump not able to supply sufficient oil at idle or under high load at low rpm. Or is it every item I listed that combined together has pushed the limits so far to the left that there is hardly a margin of safety left and add in some fuel dilution and too long of an OCI and premature engine failure is the result ?. 
    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      He is not saying that an SAE *W20 will have more viscosity than a *W40 due to MORE VII polymers. He is saying that although multiple *W40 may post in the PDS the same or similar 100 C and 150 C viscosities that the blenders choice of modifier TYPE and AMOUNT to get his chosen base to grade will not give identical real world viscosities in shear and at temperature. All will pass the SII test but not all will pass the 100 C HTHS (unpublished value) testing the blender does and relies on to get the required by law "percentage improvement' referenced to his last great work.    Tis the problem with the lie. Once told others are required to support it. 
    • PunchT37
      Parking Brake - Automatic Engagement Questions

      By PunchT37 · Posted

      I have a `25, 1500 that auto sets on incline. Never knew that at first. I have the electronic shifter. Just think if it didn`t do that? Unlike a mechanical shift that you can muscle out of park, how would you get this thing out? That would be a problem.   What I found out later is, I don`t have to push the button to release. Just put it in gear.   Setting parameters? Don`t know if it`s possible.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...