Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)
48 minutes ago, TXGREEK said:

Here’s mine without the new wheels and still debating 4cfec5bcd9f13e8b50bf11bf731c0120.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That's what mine looked like when I drove her off the lot 3 weeks ago. I had the dealership put a 4.5 rough country lift/level kit with 295/60/20 Toyo open country A/T tires, Fuel Sledge rims. Borla cat back exhaust and cold air intake. Pedal Commander to increase accelerator response, then I installed the tow mirrors. Yes, I had to bring it back three times because of inside rub. I also put a billet locking fuel door on it. 

IMG_5211.JPG

Edited by Mogollon Monster
added more info
  • Like 1
Posted
12 minutes ago, 03C5Z said:

Love the blacked out badges...I removed my fender ones, and want the others blacked out..did you plasti dip or buy black ones ?

 

I have the gel domed ones for grill and tail gate.

truck grill.JPG

I went the opposite way I felt white on white looked better for me.

IMG_5227.JPG

  • Like 3
Posted (edited)

^^^ white is better with your chrome bumper and grill surrond..no chrome for me...black it is!

Edited by 03C5Z
Posted
That's what mine looked like when I drove her off the lot 3 weeks ago. I had the dealership put a 4.5 rough country lift/level kit with 295/60/20 Toyo open country A/T tires, Fuel Sledge rims. Borla cat back exhaust and cold air intake. Pedal Commander to increase accelerator response, then I installed the tow mirrors. Yes, I had to bring it back three times because of inside rub. I also put a billet locking fuel door on it. 
IMG_5211.thumb.JPG.bbab7aa5066aedd86c676f743943a839.JPG

I had a 2” front and 1” rear level installed thinking that 275/60/20 Michelin Defenders would be no problem but now I’m getting rub on both my UCA’s. This is the only reason got the level. Discount tire told me it would fit fine and not rub if it didn’t have the level. Now, I’ve to look into new wheels and I’m just sick of looking. Chrome peels and solid black looks cheap like a high schoolers Walmart Wheel.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted

I’m leaning towards the fuel assault gloss black with machined trim.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

Yeah, I like those. But what about your earlier comment, "Chrome peels and solid black looks cheap like a high schoolers Walmart Wheel." I took some slight offence thinking you meant black in general but now I believe you  meant black like someone lost a hubcap hitting the turn fresh off a Circle K beer run! HA!

Posted
Yeah, I like those. But what about your earlier comment, "Chrome peels and solid black looks cheap like a high schoolers Walmart Wheel." I took some slight offence thinking you meant black in general but now I believe you  meant black like someone lost a hubcap hitting the turn fresh off a Circle K beer run! HA!

Lol


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted

What 20x9 wheel would you put on this truck? 221d363f8f073a7006a0247fa5e52818.jpg

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Posted
You know what I think, it would be cool to get some old school centerlines, the deep dish ones made for wider tires.

I just put on these KO2’s, 275/60/20x9

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,866
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Greg3160
    Newest Member
    Greg3160
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 481 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Late reply, but yes—it works on the SLT trim. Compatibility comes down to the plastic shroud shape behind your mirror, not the trim badge itself. On the SLT with auto-dimming, it uses a plug-and-play Y-harness off the mirror/rain sensor power, so no need to run wires down to the OBD port. If anyone's ever unsure about fitment, just drop a photo of your mirror housing and we can double-check it.   Appreciate the detailed feedback on the install! On the windshield glare—we actually took feedback like yours and developed a dedicated CPL (polarizer) filter to cut down dash reflections on sunny days. If you're still running the cam, shoot me a DM. I'd be happy to send a CPL filter over for you to test out—no charge. 
    • There are no stickers in your glovebox?
    • Look at the numbers on the stickers in the door jam...
    • Yes, every time the developer updates his code, you must recompile. I will private message you with the latest because it changes pretty much with every version.
    • After I wrote that reply I went for a ride. 85 F out. So trans started at 85 F and it shifted the same as it did an hour latter at 168 F. I've never actually recorded the to cold to shift point but it is under 32 F before they start hanging on to a lower gear or leaving the converter unlocked. Both intended to heat fluid.    Yes, brake or bake. Absolutely.      Your welcome. True research ended decades ago. Field trials are still in play.    There is a thing called oxidation onset temperature. This is the heat related oxidation not the O2 exposure kind. For mineral oil that starts at 140 F. So what happens after 140 F? Each 20 F cuts fluid life in half! Does using a Full Synthetic improve that? Yes! By how much? Depends on the base oil type and a few other factors. But enough to notice. Some esters are even higher. There are even synergies between types the will raise it higher than any one component is alone.    Then there is "Hindered" oils. Antioxidant additives. Hindered Polyol Esters can sit at 500 F for years in a turbine.   When a blender brags his oil will 'take 500 F" in service he doesn't specify for how long. Water will dance on a 500 F hot plate for several seconds. @newdude put up a chart showing the relationship between fluid temperature and it's life in an automatic transmission. Here's a version of that chart for Group III based oils. These temperatures are those in the pan as observed as 'normal'. that is you drive as you do for as long as you do under what load you ask of it and whatever that temperature is this graph applies to. Flash temperatures of a few minutes isn't what his means.    Note that fluids held at a constant 240 F have a service life of only 20K miles. 220 F explains the factory exchange limit, eh? My equipment I keep under 180 F and I'm good if the cooler will hold it as low as 140 F. But that's me.   
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...