Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

New to the forum, please forgive me if this topic has already been covered. A month after purchase (purchased 7/10/14), I discovered a rattling noise (sounds like someone doing morse code) coming from the console, if you are sitting in the driver's seat, it's to the right of the driver's right leg. There's a little storage compartment there (very narrow, sometimes I put my iPhone in it, not much else will fit) and if I push on it, the noise will go away.

 

About 3 weeks ago, I had the dealer look at it while my husband was in for an oil change, well of course the sound could not be duplicated. The service guy told us that they found a lose antenna and they taped it down. There is no way, an antenna is causing the rattling, sounds more like a screw or metal plate moving. On the way home from the dealership, while driving 75 mph on the interstate, the rattling began again. Ugh. I'm a busy mom to 3, and have not had the time to take it back in. However, we are leaving on Christmas Eve and driving to see family 500 miles away. I cannot listen to the rattle for that long of a trip. So I'm taking the Suburban in on Monday morning to try to have it repaired.

 

The rattling will go away if you press hard on the area the noise is coming from. Has anyone else experienced this issue? They had nothing in their database about this problem and I'm desperate to have it fixed Monday due to our long trip. The '09 Yukon XL we traded in never had one rattle. It's annoying having a $60K vehicle rattling.

 

I've also been hearing what sounds like air leaks coming from the windshield, but my husband says he hears nothing (I think he's just accustomed to his older model company truck sounding loud while driving) but this Suburban is definitely louder in the cabin now, than it was when we purchased it. ANY advice/info would be greatly appreciated!! Thanks in advance. :)

Edited by GaMom
Posted (edited)

GaMom - I think I read somewhere else on the forum that someone was experiencing what you described. Don't tell the technician what you believe it to be because it may be something else, don't distract them. Point in case, the issue on the other vehicle ended up being a seatbelt housing.

 

As for the the "sounds like air leaks coming from the windshield", it maybe defective weatherstripping. You or the husband sit in the truck and the other grab the water hose. With the water hose in hand put a steady stream of water on the bottom side of the windshield, annotate results. Then put a steady stream of water on the sides of the windshield, annotate the results. Then put a steady stream of water on the top of the windshield, annotate results. Ensure you apply the water in the way indentified above or you may not get an as accurate reading. If water doesn't seep in, then air shouldn't either, you could probably eliminate the weatherstripping. Provide the info to the technician.

Edited by The Zip
Posted

So I drive 20 mins to the dealer to drop off my Suburban and they inform me they would need to keep it for a week because their trim guys are on vacation, all but two. We are headed out of town Wednesday for a long road trip, so of course this wouldn't work. The service guy is trying to find a loaner 'burb or yukon xl for us to take on trip. On the way home, I started to hear noise coming from the driver side seat belt housing (or casing, or whatever), I guess I'll add that to my short list of stuff for them to look at.

Posted

GaMom - When you get the replacement vehicle, be sure to monitor the kids for irritability in an otherwise sound kid. Hopefully the replacement vehicle won't have "buffeting" issues, if it does you will be wishing the rattling was back. Monitor your and the kids health when driving in the replacement, I consider the buffeting in these fullsize GM SUVs (especially the extended versions) a very serious health and safety condition.

Posted

GaMom - good point ("I'm not even sure they'll put us in a 2015"). Have not heard of the buffeting in 2014's and earlier. Call the dealer right now and tell them you prefer 2014 loaner if possible, should be more of them on the lot.

Posted

Hey GaMom,

 

We're sorry to hear of your concerns with your Suburban. I see that you have been to the dealership and that they will be taking a closer look at your vehicle soon. Please keep us posted on the prognosis!

 

Andraya

GM Customer Care

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

Well, here we are a month later and after two more trips to the dealer, that freakin rattle is still there. This last time they told me they insulated a couple of plastic pieces and that seemed to do the trick. The noise doesn't even sound like plastic and on the way home the noise starts again. We are really at our wit's end. My husband plans on calling them in the morning and telling them to come and get it and bring us a loaner (the last time I got a loaner, they tried putting me in a Chevy cruise...which is smaller than an accord!). We are tired of driving the 20 mins to the dealer. Any advice?

Edited by GaMom
  • Like 1
Posted

GaMom - don't know if you're looking for advice for the rattle or the drive. For the drive, it's not common for the dealership to pick-up your truck for service. However they will give you a ride back within reason, 20 minutes is reasonable for them, and you. Could be worse, how do you think the guy feels who has to drive an hour.

 

The rattle, see if you can help out the technician by eliminating if the rattle is inside or outside the truck. For outside, crank the truck, pop the hood, and listen for a rattle under the hood. Look under the truck moving from front to back both sides, listen for a rattle. Close the hood, stand on the curb, drive by while husband listens for a rattle. For inside, ride in the second and third rows, all seats, listen for a rattle. Provide info you "know" to the technician, different from my earlier post when I suggested you don't tell the technician what you "believe".

 

We would like for these technicians to be perfect, but the reality is they're just like us.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Well, they are coming to pick up the Suburban on Monday morning. Maybe 3rd time will be the charm, I have no idea what to do if it's not. I've never had an ongoing issue with a vehicle before. Very frustrating.

  • 3 months later...
Posted (edited)

My 2015 Suburban is not even a month old and has the same ticking, plastic on plastic cracking sound. I took it to the dealer and the technician heard it on a test drive and called it a "Dash itch." The location is the same exact spot as you described, to the right of your leg as you are driving. I was happy once I found the location and was able to push hard on the panel to the lower left of the radio over the console and the tick would go away. The noise occurs over bumps only. What is the latest update on the resolution of your issue? I have an appointment for them to look at this next week but am not confident.

Edited by ny2015sub
Posted

I was happy once I found the location and was able to push hard on the panel to the lower left of the radio over the console and the tick would go away.

 

You may have something for your issue, it sounds like your dash has too much play if the tick goes away when you push in. When you take it into the shop, ask the tech to replace the dash and if not add some more padding on the inside edge of the dash which may fill some of the space enough to stop the tick. Dash itch should be their problem not yours, if this was me my first option would be dash replacement.

Posted

It's definitely padding that is required, replacement of the dash or likely the console. I should video tape the sound as it goes over the bumps. For now I just listen to the music louder but on a long road trip it would be maddening. I have an appointment on June 5th and will see what they say. Thank you for the post.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I am new to this… but I saw some of your replies to another person doing the same as me… trying to replace the temp control actuator in my 05 GMC SIERRA, And can NOT get to it… how do I get the center console panels off, do I have to take ALL of them off to get to it? 80481681120__F97CE005-C5E5-4FBF-9589-1388214E3586.MOV
    • I will be one of those "blinded". One, I like new shiny things. Two, I've never kept any of them beyond the 3/36. Three, I don't finance anything. Four, yep, it's a waste of money....so,what? I'm doing my part of keeping automotive industry going and keeping my neighbors, most of whom are in it, employed. 😉      By the way this is the "signature... ¬  
    • Although there is a "recommended" weight by those who sell trailers, my experience has been that they are way too aggressive in their information, for me at least. My '22 with 6.6 Gas, has a payload of about 3400 lbs and depending on your specs (I don't have 4WD so it has a bit higher Payload than others) yours will likely be different. Payload is one of the most important numbers for towing. Although you "could" tow the max trailer weight for your truck, I, personally, would not go close to that number. Having said that, a lot depends on how/where you will be towing. I live in the LMD of BC and often tow to Denver, Co, along interstates (flat and mountains) and I find I need to keep it in 5th (6spd) for the trip and travel at around 65mph. This is for a trailer dry weight of just under 3500lbs. If you are only doing local, short trips, it would not be that big an issue if you had a heavier unit. You will be surprised how much stuff you load the trailer with, so I would only recognize the trailers "full" GVWR weight rating, then decide on the appropriate trailer from that number. If you are worrying about how much stuff you should be putting in a trailer, you might have too large a rig from the get-go. Once again, depending on what terrain/distance in which you will be pulling. Marv
    • davester, Thanks for the response, how ever, I think I am now a bit more confused than I was before I posted - - After I posted, I actually found a YT video of a guy who replaced his Module (above tire) and he only disconnected the ground cable of the battery, but you describe rubbing the two cables together after disconnecting. I presume that is to do as you describe and eliminate any residual energy? - When I picked up the Module (between my posting and reading your response) from the dealer, I specifically asked about any re-programming and he stated it was not necessary as it was simply plug and play. Don't know how knowledgeable he is, though. - The video I watched also showed the Module plug to be difficult to "unlock" and remove, but there was no mention of silicone, although the video did show a bunch of dust/dirt in and around the plug (old truck) during removal. Are you talking about silicone that was applied by the factory, or silicone that you applied prior to plugging in? Thanks again, Marv
    • Looking for a clean, factory-style lighting upgrade for your 2022+ GMC Hummer EV? M&R Automotive's 40" Bumper Light Bar PRO features a vehicle-specific, bolt-on design with no drilling or cutting required. Choose a bright white or yellow main beam, both paired with an amber DRL backlight for a sleek OEM-inspired look. The kit includes a curved LED light bar, powder-coated brackets, and all necessary mounting hardware.    Learn more or order yours See how it installs and looks on the vehicle:    
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...