Jump to content

Transmission Service questions

Tsmith

Recommended Posts

Tsmith Enthusiast

Tsmith

Posted
Posted

My 2009 GMC Sierra is apporaching 50K and been getting pricing on Servicing. One shop that's reputable and has been in business for 30+ years uses DEXRON III with an aditive. Is this noraml that they'd do this? Not quite sure why they would just use the DEXRON VI. Pricing has been anywhere from $140 to $250.

 

Lastly my truck is driven mostly in town average 15 miles a day. Is the factory installed fluid Ok for 100,000 miles the manual suggests?

 

Thanks

 

 

txab Senior Enthusiast

txab

Posted
Posted

Use only Dex VI. No Dex III with an additive. Find another shop or bring them your own fluid

durandetto Enthusiast

durandetto

Posted
Posted

Dexron VI is synthetic and is good for 100k. Do not put III in it. It probably wouldn't be a bad idea to change it every 50k, but you don't have to.

Duelin Enthusiast

Duelin

Posted
Posted

The problem you have when someone else does it you have no idea what they put in it. A lot of the big places buy their oil and transmission fluid in 55 gal drums. So they don't stock any more than they have to. So what ever they have in stock goes into everything. Also they don't like buying the top of the line. The cheaper the better (more profit).

Tsmith Enthusiast

Tsmith

Posted
  • Author
Posted

That is very true Duelin. I'll probably just let the GMC dealer do it since I know they'll be using the DEXRON VI. And that's the very reason I've always stayed away from the Quick Lube shops.

  • 2 weeks later...
oz bigfoot New Member

oz bigfoot

Posted
Posted

hi guys

greetings from the land down under

we have a 2006 2500HD done 135klms in it towing a 4 tonne off road caravan around oz

am thinking of having a complete transmission oil change done

have had filters and oil changed regularly on the transmission

but as you would be aware doing this doesn't get all the oil out only about half they tell me

would take it to a Allison transmission service centre to have it done

 

what do you guys think of me doing this as I spoke with a dealer yesterday

and he said not to worry about it yet

as we tow a fair bit of weight around I am concerned about it

best regards

Geoff

 

Black02Silverado Senior Enthusiast

Black02Silverado

Posted
Posted

Use only Dex VI. No Dex III with an additive. Find another shop or bring them your own fluid

 

Exactly. Your vehicle requires dexron VI that is what needs to be put back in. Also every 50k fluid changes is a good idea. Most of us drive in severe conditions anymore. It is less expensive to change the fluid out every 50k than to replace a transmission.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • asilverblazer
      Slate Electric Truck

      By asilverblazer · Posted

      I like the idea.  I would pick diesel if I had a choice. I need pictures though.
    • newdude
      Help purchasing a touch screen digitizer

      By newdude · Posted

      I've installed cheap eBay new aftermarket digitizers before.  They work.  Did a bunch of Cadillac CUE (aka Cadillac's MyLink) for someone years ago.  They all worked fine after the repair.    That number 22740886, that is a component part # for GM.  You can use it to search, but its not something that's obtainable at the dealer level.     So pretty much any of these will work - 2015 Colorado Digitizer for sale | eBay
    • asilverblazer
      give me some tips to make my truck look better

      By asilverblazer · Posted

      Black bumper and the later years Z-71 style color matched grille.
    • fondupot
      Exhaust heat while towing!

      By fondupot · Posted

      You can install tailpipes that direct the exhaust sideways vs the OEM one that goes straight back. There are several on the market, do you own research. HOWEVER, you need to make sure the Venturi vents are still intact, otherwise it will throw a engine code. There is a sensor somewhere that detects back pressure on the exhaust. And if it doesn't collect the correct metrics, it will throw the truck into limp mode. 
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      "Teardown" is complete. Head surfaces are clean and ready, new intake is prepped and ready. Coolant drained and water pump is removed, radiator is removed, new hoses and pump are ready.   The replacement intake is also from a '95 (with I think 260k, the odometer said). Noticeably less pitting where it covers the rear coolant passages. I'm not sure if that's a tribute to more frequent use, more frequent coolant changes/upkeep, or if the intake was machined at some point. But it appears I found a good one.   My coolant hoses were original, and the lower hose still retained the factory spring inside. It's not really rusty, but it's got deposits all over it. Unsure if I should re-install it (will thoroughly clean it first). Someone said hose technology has gotten better since 1995 (has it?) and I don't need the spring. I think modern EPDM is what made those hoses last from 1995-2026, so it's a question of how much suction can the water pump really pull, and will it collapse the hose without a spring?   I'm stopped and waiting for parts, however.   When I first brought the truck home, the fan was intermittently hitting the radiator shroud. I could see someone had monkeyed with the shroud (put a bunch of cardboard as a spacer between the upper/lower shroud halves. Someone said the motor mounts have likely failed and the engine has sagged. I wasn't sure I believed that. The engine is really solid in its mounts: To remove the old intake I *just* nearly permanently welded to the heads with freshly cured RTV and gasket snot two weeks ago, I literally had to use the arms on my lift and a chain with a bolt attached to the intake to pull it loose. It almost picked the front of the truck off the ground before ....scuuuuuuuuuuup.... I could actually hear the gaskets tearing and it broke loose and the whole truck settled back down. Motor barely moved.   SO, those parts I'm waiting on... The lower radiator mounts/bushings had completely failed. The radiator needs to be insulated from the rad support, and the bushings help the rad stand at the correct height. The plastic "baffle" was also destroyed at some point. Someone had attached the shroud to it incorrectly, overlapping a joint that should have been underlapped, creating another suspect issue potentially causing things to hit the fan. Broken tabs, side is busted off, and it's perma-formed/bent where it was jimmied incorrectly.   The baffle? Unobtainum. Long since discontinued from GM, of course. Aftermarket/capa/chinese? Also unobtanium. In GM's infinite wisdom, it appears there are at least two different variations whether the Blazer is 2 or 4 door, and I can't yet tell if they shared the same part with the S-pickups. Plan B, if I can't find a viable used one, will be to create a bracket to re-assemble the critical joint I need to seal a gap with the shroud. But that will bug me, it won't be...perfect.   The water pump bolts appear to have been installed with...plumber's putty. I guess, sure, if it works...? I've found a few "backyard fixes" like that. Someone's been here before....   If I can't find someone to jam bamboo under my fingernails to fill my free time this week I think I'll install the driver's power window motor and replace the rear door speaker that's inop. I've got a genuine GM "9.5" ohm working replacement. Why GM used a non-standard resistance....nevermind. Of course they did, you can get more sound from a cheap factory amp that way.   And the saga goes on...

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...