Jump to content

DIY Tint and Clear Bra install?

mdrew

Recommended Posts

mdrew Enthusiast

mdrew

Posted
Posted

Its a logistical nightmare for me to get the truck to a professional window tint / clear bra installer. 320 mile trip, one way hotel, rental car, time off from work etc. The installer I have used for the past five vehicles does an amazing job. The windows look like they came from the factory with tint. Even the very leading edge is tinted, so there is no little clear line at the top. He said he uses a stone to work the edge.

 

With a new job, new schedule, and the headache involved, Im contemplating doing both myself. The film install doesnt look all that bad with the pre-cut kits. The 3M Pro film sure looks easy enough to work with. I figured Id get one of those kits and try it. The window tint though.. Ive tried that before, which is why I have been paying some to do it for me the past ten years. Ive been trying to find some on-line DIY videos for these trucks, but didnt get very far. If anyone might know where I can find some DIY guides specific to this truck, that would be appreciated. Im looking to remove as much window trim that I can so I dont have to fight with it, and get crap under the film, or those pesky bubbles.

Half_ton Enthusiast

Half_ton

Posted
Posted

If you think you're going to have a tough time with flat windows with window with tint, you're severely underestimating how difficult clear bra is to install.

A blind monkey could honestly do the front windows in a silverado with some patience. I've done clear bra and tint on a few of my vehicles, and honestly i'd rather try to tint a rear window of a mid 90's Camaro over another clear bra install.

POS VETT Enthusiast

POS VETT

Posted
Posted

The installer used a STONE to work the edge?

 

What??

mdrew Enthusiast

mdrew

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Either that or file.... I didn't ask for details. He did my C6 Z06 too. Used a combination of black vinyl and film, cut free hand. Looks amazing. No dot matrix spots. Told me mine was his last, ever.....

 

So the clear bra is pretty tough.... dang. They make it look easy in some of the videos.

stevencox93 Enthusiast

stevencox93

Posted
Posted

I use to tint my own windows and yes you can do it yourself and it come out great but that was on my flat window xterra. These trucks have curves and all which not only means you got to worry about that but also the fingers that happen from it and you need a heat gun to shrink the tint to the curve and not every tint is the same. Some curve more than others and all so one video may show little to no hard work but when you get the tint its all hell lol when I got my truck and saw the curve I paid the $150 to get it done by the tint guy that does the best work around which was a 45 min drive

mdrew Enthusiast

mdrew

Posted
  • Author
Posted

This is a logistical thing, not money related. The windows are not that big of a deal. He can tint them in about an hour. It's this damn clear bra that's causing me trouble. They want the truck for two days. I just can't swing that amount of time.

 

So what's so hard about the clear bra anyway? I do have a heat gun. Do you have to stretch it, or shrink it? Or both? And does the type/brand of film make a difference, like some of the 3M Pro film videos suggest?

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      Thanks - I wasn't quite caffeinated this morning. 2:1 makes sense, turning the crankshaft 360 degrees will turn the cam 180 degrees, and had I done that, the cam's dot would be at 6 and the crank's at 12 again.   I went ahead and took the sprocket off anyway, aligned everything dot-to-dot including the balance shaft just for s&g. I'm glad I did because I discovered no Loctite on the timing sprocket bolts. Maybe it's not required, but at only 20 ft-lb torque spec, those bolts aren't in there very tight. Cleaned and reassembled with some thread locker and torqued.   A general observation: Less is more with RTV. If a little doesn't stop a leak, a LOT probably won't, either. RTV is thinly veiled revenge, in a tube...      
    • richard wysong
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By richard wysong · Posted

      The timing marks are ok, that is #1, you can turn it over until they line up and it won't change anything, the crankshaft turns twice for every camshaft revolution, I have always set up SB Chevs as your pic shows using a straight edge
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      Someone's been here before.... There is a receipt for a 3-piece timing set, purchased earlier this year.   Is this picture something, or, nothing?   I have the timing cover off and my crank is perfectly TDC and the keyed gear's locating mark is dead on 12 o'clock.   The cam gear locating mark is also at 12 o'clock. Now, I'm not an expert, but all the install guides say the two locating marks should meet and be perfectly aligned when installing a timing set. The mark on the crank should be dead on 12:00 and the cam gear's mark should be dead on 6:00, and both marks should be perfectly vertically aligned.   I believe the timing gear is keyed or has a dowel that ensures it can only be installed on the cam in one position, so I have to believe the cam is out of phase somehow. At the very least, with a triangular bolt pattern, it can only be installed in one of 3 different positions.   Before I pulled the front cover, the truck was running alright, no service engine soon lights except an occasional P0172 / rich condition. Timing -16 timing at idle (should be +16), and total -35% fuel trim, two conditions I haven't been able to figure out.   In related news, my injector tested pretty well, wasn't leaking, but I had it rebuilt anyway, and it's on it's way back to me.         Along with this discovery, the good and bad:   Good: The oil pan seal appears undamaged.   Bad: -The timing cover has been reused, and the positioning dowels have been broken. That could explain some of the leaking. -Some kind of white paste or grease was used to try to seal the oil pan seal and timing cover (since wiped off..). -Then, someone globbed silicone all over the front of the cover and also buried the ckp sensor in it. But, they didn't put any inside the cover or use RTV to try to seal the oil pan seal with the timing cover (good).
    • Grumpy Bear
      PF63 Oil Filters Going Away?

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      The guy that owns K&P filters last I checked in with him has over 300,000 miles on his Dodge base Hemi using his own 35 micron absolute stainless mesh filter from its first oil change.    The GM study I've posted a dozen times shows the relationship in engine life based in multiples of base units, not miles or years. That is the base unit is the number of miles the motor ran using the reference filter efficiency.    The above two paragraphs dismantle anecdotal arguments IF one changes oil often enough to prevent particle formation and the motor is in otherwise good shape. That is not full of silica (no air filter) or suffering a metallurgical issue that is not part of the lubrication discussion. Poor heat treat in example.   Data from UOA's I've reviewed from more than a few engines can show remarkably broad variations in oil cleanliness using the exact same filter over the course of an engines life.     Lastly there is the common sense of it. Wear debris WILL circulate the engine BEFORE it ever sees a filter in route to that filter and WILL harm the pump which NEVER sees filtered oil.    Alpha question then becomes, given the facts, how long do you believe is a reasonable service life from a vehicle you are certain you will not pass down? That is the junk yard will be it's resting place when you're done with it? (the moral issue most don't care about).    Omega question is then how diligent are you prepared to be in general mechanical, air & oil maintenance? Preventing particulates and keeping them sufficiently dilute; preventing the precursors from generation, amalgamation and precipitation.    If I get a good look at the engine bay of a vehicle I have a fair idea of the owners commitment to the inside of the power train. That 30 micron WIX is still more efficient than a sieve.                 
    • Tyler Gibbs
      PF63 Oil Filters Going Away?

      By Tyler Gibbs · Posted

      It also depends on what criteria someone is using for “best” when talking filters.  Are we going off best efficiency?   Best quality/QC?  Etc. because the two may not mutually exclusive.  

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...