Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I'm wanting to remove my chrome window trim on my 2015 Silverado. Not sure exactly how to do it and I have searched forever and cannot find anything. Anybody have an idea?

Posted (edited)

its easy first roll the window all the way down. on the front doors there is a small screw on the end of the trim on the rear doors it is towards the front of the door under the weather stripping. When the windows down you can see inside the door and you will see white tabs at the base of the trim. Use a long flat blade screw driver or a right angled pick like i did. I started toward the front of the doors, gently pull the clip in towards the truck and pull upwards on the trim. I did that on the first couple clips and the ones toward the back of the door unclipped by pulling up on the trim. To put the black trim in just slide it down and you will hear the clips snap in. All is left is to put the screw back in. First door took a little bit to get the hang of it but the other 3 only took a few moments each.

Edited by 05cyclone
  • Like 1
Posted

its easy first roll the window all the way down. on the front doors there is a small screw on the end of the trim on the rear doors it is towards the front of the door under the weather stripping. When the windows down you can see inside the door and you will see white tabs at the base of the trim. Use a long flat blade screw driver or a right angled pick like i did. I started toward the front of the doors, gently pull the clip in towards the truck and pull upwards on the trim. I did that on the first couple clips and the ones toward the back of the door unclipped by pulling up on the trim. To put the black trim in just slide it down and you will hear the clips snap in. All is left is to put the screw back in. First door took a little bit to get the hang of it but the other 3 only took a few moments each.

Awesome, thanks a lot! Curious if anybody would want to trade their black trim for my chrome?
Posted

Make sure you put some painters tape or other low adhesive tape under the trim on the door and above the part that extends past the window, I have a couple hair size scratches from the first one I did.

  • 3 years later...
Posted
7 hours ago, Silverado_fan27 said:

How do you remove the rear trim? I see the front has a visible screw but is there a screw for the back behind door panel or something? 

Yep.  The whole plastic trim piece around the window comes off.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
On 5/9/2019 at 2:08 AM, Silverado_fan27 said:

Yes but how does it come off I see the screw on the front but how does the rest window trim come off? 

I’d like to know this too

Posted

Take the torx screw out and pull the trim up vertically from the end where the screw goes into if u pull staight up u wont break any clips the rears u should pop off the weather stripping that covers the screw at the b pillar side of the rear doors super easy 10 min job


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • 1 year later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • probably won't get a response from that user, as they haven't returned to the site since making that one post.  users don't (at least I don't, and I haven't seen any setting which would notify me via say, email) get any notification other than going to this site, and checking if they got a response on their thread...
    • Thanks - I wasn't quite caffeinated this morning. 2:1 makes sense, turning the crankshaft 360 degrees will turn the cam 180 degrees, and had I done that, the cam's dot would be at 6 and the crank's at 12 again.   I went ahead and took the sprocket off anyway, aligned everything dot-to-dot including the balance shaft just for s&g. I'm glad I did because I discovered no Loctite on the timing sprocket bolts. Maybe it's not required, but at only 20 ft-lb torque spec, those bolts aren't in there very tight. Cleaned and reassembled with some thread locker and torqued.   A general observation: Less is more with RTV. If a little doesn't stop a leak, a LOT probably won't, either. RTV is thinly veiled revenge, in a tube...      
    • The timing marks are ok, that is #1, you can turn it over until they line up and it won't change anything, the crankshaft turns twice for every camshaft revolution, I have always set up SB Chevs as your pic shows using a straight edge
    • Someone's been here before.... There is a receipt for a 3-piece timing set, purchased earlier this year.   Is this picture something, or, nothing?   I have the timing cover off and my crank is perfectly TDC and the keyed gear's locating mark is dead on 12 o'clock.   The cam gear locating mark is also at 12 o'clock. Now, I'm not an expert, but all the install guides say the two locating marks should meet and be perfectly aligned when installing a timing set. The mark on the crank should be dead on 12:00 and the cam gear's mark should be dead on 6:00, and both marks should be perfectly vertically aligned.   I believe the timing gear is keyed or has a dowel that ensures it can only be installed on the cam in one position, so I have to believe the cam is out of phase somehow. At the very least, with a triangular bolt pattern, it can only be installed in one of 3 different positions.   Before I pulled the front cover, the truck was running alright, no service engine soon lights except an occasional P0172 / rich condition. Timing -16 timing at idle (should be +16), and total -35% fuel trim, two conditions I haven't been able to figure out.   In related news, my injector tested pretty well, wasn't leaking, but I had it rebuilt anyway, and it's on it's way back to me.         Along with this discovery, the good and bad:   Good: The oil pan seal appears undamaged.   Bad: -The timing cover has been reused, and the positioning dowels have been broken. That could explain some of the leaking. -Some kind of white paste or grease was used to try to seal the oil pan seal and timing cover (since wiped off..). -Then, someone globbed silicone all over the front of the cover and also buried the ckp sensor in it. But, they didn't put any inside the cover or use RTV to try to seal the oil pan seal with the timing cover (good).
    • The guy that owns K&P filters last I checked in with him has over 300,000 miles on his Dodge base Hemi using his own 35 micron absolute stainless mesh filter from its first oil change.    The GM study I've posted a dozen times shows the relationship in engine life based in multiples of base units, not miles or years. That is the base unit is the number of miles the motor ran using the reference filter efficiency.    The above two paragraphs dismantle anecdotal arguments IF one changes oil often enough to prevent particle formation and the motor is in otherwise good shape. That is not full of silica (no air filter) or suffering a metallurgical issue that is not part of the lubrication discussion. Poor heat treat in example.   Data from UOA's I've reviewed from more than a few engines can show remarkably broad variations in oil cleanliness using the exact same filter over the course of an engines life.     Lastly there is the common sense of it. Wear debris WILL circulate the engine BEFORE it ever sees a filter in route to that filter and WILL harm the pump which NEVER sees filtered oil.    Alpha question then becomes, given the facts, how long do you believe is a reasonable service life from a vehicle you are certain you will not pass down? That is the junk yard will be it's resting place when you're done with it? (the moral issue most don't care about).    Omega question is then how diligent are you prepared to be in general mechanical, air & oil maintenance? Preventing particulates and keeping them sufficiently dilute; preventing the precursors from generation, amalgamation and precipitation.    If I get a good look at the engine bay of a vehicle I have a fair idea of the owners commitment to the inside of the power train. That 30 micron WIX is still more efficient than a sieve.                 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...