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Sqeak from Rearend


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Posted
My truck has 47,000 miles on it and just started squeaking .It's the 2000 Silverado extended cab 4wd z71. I think it's the rear end is squeaking. I have changed the disc pads which were ok. Added fluid with nothing changing. It only squeaks while in drive and accelerating. The squeak gets faster, then stops at about 30 mph. I have a locking rear end. You can put it in neutral or let of the gas and it stops. When it slows down to about 15 mph or so it starts again. Know anything about this one
Posted
Some of the symptoms point to a loose spare tire, but if it stops when you let off the gas, it probably isn't that.  Check the tire, but you might also want to get your u-joints checked out.
Posted
i had something similar but only at 10mph or less.  they changed pads and rear rotors.  that fixed it for awhile.  Now about once a yr i have to sand off the surface rust on the rotor and it goes away till the rust returns
Posted
Mine was the U-joints.  Aprroaching 50k, you should probably replace them anyway.  It's a cheap way to see if that is your problem or not.
Posted
I got the rear drive shaft out and it's no doubt it the front u-joint that was squeaking. Both U-joints weren't but about 35 bucks. I couldn't get the u-joints apart from the aluminum shaft I'm scared I'm going to mess it up. I'm going to take it to the parts house this mornining and their going to press them out and in. I couldn't drive them out. I'll let you know what they charge. Unless you have a big vise or a press it's going to be difficult I believe.
Posted
A big hammer, a socket the size of the hole in the shaft, and a block of wood.  You'll have to wack it pretty good for a few times, but once you get it moving, it gets alot easier.  I did mine this way and it took about 10 minutes per end to get the joint out and put the new one back in.  I put the block of wood underneath on the floor and then rested the edge of the driveshaft on the block.  This gives you a solid surface to hit against, but the wood block won't screw up the aluminum shaft.
Posted
They removed and installed the U-joints at the NAPA Store. They charged me 10 bucks. The guy went to wailing on it it with a hammer. He took the old ones out, put the new ones in about 10 minutes. He had done a few with the aluminum shaft.I wouldn't have hit the shaft with a hammer if you held agun to my head. Best 10 bucks I've spent in awhile. He said he has replaced alot of the yokes for the dealership for the Silverado's. Kind of spooks me about mine. He said they had pack some with grease and put like a superball in them to keep the tension on them. Now I need to fix the sticking gas pedal.Is there a recall on this? I appreciate everyones response. This is the first time I've use a forum. I gaining alot of insight on what to do to fix stuff without going to the dealer. I will install the drive shaft this afternoon and report on whether I have victory or not. Thanks again.
Posted
There is a TSB for the sticking throttle body (gas pedal).  If the truck is under warranty the dealer will fix it, otherwise you will need to clean the throttle body and lube it yourself.
Posted
Installed the drive shaft last night with the new U-Joints. No squeaks or clunking when putting in drive. Adusted the throttle body butterfly stop until the sticking went away. The idle seems to be ok with no change. Everything is great right now. I'm kind of worried about the front now. It's a shame these things are failing this quick. I would like thank everyone again.This forum has been a great source of information for me. The only thing I have left to fix now is a cracked passenger side mirror. My wife backed out of the garage and hit it on the door opening. It's the heated mirror.  Don't know how hard it is to replace.
Posted

REMEMBER...The u-Joints have a little horseshoe clip

that looks like a round W that has to be removed first

before ya pound out the u-joint................geo

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