Jump to content

Help with exhaust install.

Herd Thinners

By Herd Thinners
in Troubleshooting & Recalls

Recommended Posts

Herd Thinners Enthusiast

Herd Thinners

Posted
Posted

I installed a Corsa exhaust on my 2015 GMC Sierra I have a few questions maybe someone can shed some light on.

 

1. The bracket holding the end of the exhaust (flex section) to the cat has exhaust coming from the side where the bracket meets. I installed and reinstalled twice with the same results. Any ideas. Is this normal.

 

2. The truck seems to hesitate when leaving from a stop but if I get on it no hesitation. Any ideas.

 

3. On initial start up condestion was coming from every connection area but that has stopped. Any insight.

 

Thank you.

chuckl1218 Senior Enthusiast

chuckl1218

Posted
Posted

1. Make sure the head pipe flex section is seated as far forward as possible with the band clamp secured around the joint where flex part meets the 3rd cat. Also make sure the pipe support hanger is level. I had to twist the head pipe so that the hanger was level and everything else aligned properly and so that the head pipe did not hit the frame.

 

2. I don't know about this. Maybe due to the exhaust leak described in 1?

 

3. I had the same condensation. Tried loosening band clamps, verified proper installation of pipe joints and re-tightened / re-torqued. Still had condensation. So I called Corsa. Tech support guy was very friendly and helpful. He said this is normal and would go away after driving for a while. He also said to make sure all band clamps were properly torqued and that the clamp bolt was 90 degrees offset from the slit in the flange at each joint. He said the band clamps help seal the joints as the system is heated and settles in. And if you loosen the band clamps, increase by 5-10 ft lbs when re-torquing. I re-torqued mine and after a few days and a 3 hour highway trip, my condensation issues went away.

 

If you have any more issues, I recommend calling Corsa tech support. They are very helpful. I hope this helps you!

I installed a Corsa exhaust on my 2015 GMC Sierra I have a few questions maybe someone can shed some light on.

1. The bracket holding the end of the exhaust (flex section) to the cat has exhaust coming from the side where the bracket meets. I installed and reinstalled twice with the same results. Any ideas. Is this normal.

2. The truck seems to hesitate when leaving from a stop but if I get on it no hesitation. Any ideas.

3. On initial start up condestion was coming from every connection area but that has stopped. Any insight.

Thank you.

Herd Thinners Enthusiast

Herd Thinners

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Extremely helpful. ill loosen the two clamps and reinstall. Any idea what size bolt is in the main backet near the cat. Mine is a tad beat up and I wanted to replace it now.

 

I'll let you know how it turns out.

chuckl1218 Senior Enthusiast

chuckl1218

Posted
Posted

Extremely helpful. ill loosen the two clamps and reinstall. Any idea what size bolt is in the main backet near the cat. Mine is a tad beat up and I wanted to replace it now.

I'll let you know how it turns out.

No, I don't know the bolt size just that it takes a 13mm socket and the others are 15mm. Someone on the forum said the band is easy and not expensive to replace. It is common and most auto parts stores or muffler shops carry them.
Herd Thinners Enthusiast

Herd Thinners

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Great info. So when I removed my exhaust I took the hangers off. The hanger closest to the cat has angle to it and was facing the back of the truck. I removed it and flipped it facing the front which pushed the flange into the cat. PROBLEM solved. Even the delay when pulling out is gone. Thanks for the help. Safe travels.

 

 

quote name="chuckl1218" post="1678040" timestamp="1441558805"]

 

1. Make sure the head pipe flex section is seated as far forward as possible with the band clamp secured around the joint where flex part meets the 3rd cat. Also make sure the pipe support hanger is level. I had to twist the head pipe so that the hanger was level and everything else aligned properly and so that the head pipe did not hit the frame.

 

2. I don't know about this. Maybe due to the exhaust leak described in 1?

 

3. I had the same condensation. Tried loosening band clamps, verified proper installation of pipe joints and re-tightened / re-torqued. Still had condensation. So I called Corsa. Tech support guy was very friendly and helpful. He said this is normal and would go away after driving for a while. He also said to make sure all band clamps were properly torqued and that the clamp bolt was 90 degrees offset from the slit in the flange at each joint. He said the band clamps help seal the joints as the system is heated and settles in. And if you loosen the band clamps, increase by 5-10 ft lbs when re-torquing. I re-torqued mine and after a few days and a 3 hour highway trip, my condensation issues went away.

 

If you have any more issues, I recommend calling Corsa tech support. They are very helpful. I hope this helps you!

 

chuckl1218 Senior Enthusiast

chuckl1218

Posted
Posted
Great info. So when I removed my exhaust I took the hangers off. The hanger closest to the cat has angle to it and was facing the back of the truck. I removed it and flipped it facing the front which pushed the flange into the cat. PROBLEM solved. Even the delay when pulling out is gone. Thanks for the help. Safe travels.

quote name="chuckl1218" post="1678040" timestamp="1441558805"]

1. Make sure the head pipe flex section is seated as far forward as possible with the band clamp secured around the joint where flex part meets the 3rd cat. Also make sure the pipe support hanger is level. I had to twist the head pipe so that the hanger was level and everything else aligned properly and so that the head pipe did not hit the frame.

2. I don't know about this. Maybe due to the exhaust leak described in 1?

3. I had the same condensation. Tried loosening band clamps, verified proper installation of pipe joints and re-tightened / re-torqued. Still had condensation. So I called Corsa. Tech support guy was very friendly and helpful. He said this is normal and would go away after driving for a while. He also said to make sure all band clamps were properly torqued and that the clamp bolt was 90 degrees offset from the slit in the flange at each joint. He said the band clamps help seal the joints as the system is heated and settles in. And if you loosen the band clamps, increase by 5-10 ft lbs when re-torquing. I re-torqued mine and after a few days and a 3 hour highway trip, my condensation issues went away.

If you have any more issues, I recommend calling Corsa tech support. They are very helpful. I hope this helps you!

 

Thanks for posting back! That's awesome that it is fixed...glad I could help!

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      Thanks - I wasn't quite caffeinated this morning. 2:1 makes sense, turning the crankshaft 360 degrees will turn the cam 180 degrees, and had I done that, the cam's dot would be at 6 and the crank's at 12 again.   I went ahead and took the sprocket off anyway, aligned everything dot-to-dot including the balance shaft just for s&g. I'm glad I did because I discovered no Loctite on the timing sprocket bolts. Maybe it's not required, but at only 20 ft-lb torque spec, those bolts aren't in there very tight. Cleaned and reassembled with some thread locker and torqued.   A general observation: Less is more with RTV. If a little doesn't stop a leak, a LOT probably won't, either. RTV is thinly veiled revenge, in a tube...      
    • richard wysong
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By richard wysong · Posted

      The timing marks are ok, that is #1, you can turn it over until they line up and it won't change anything, the crankshaft turns twice for every camshaft revolution, I have always set up SB Chevs as your pic shows using a straight edge
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      Someone's been here before.... There is a receipt for a 3-piece timing set, purchased earlier this year.   Is this picture something, or, nothing?   I have the timing cover off and my crank is perfectly TDC and the keyed gear's locating mark is dead on 12 o'clock.   The cam gear locating mark is also at 12 o'clock. Now, I'm not an expert, but all the install guides say the two locating marks should meet and be perfectly aligned when installing a timing set. The mark on the crank should be dead on 12:00 and the cam gear's mark should be dead on 6:00, and both marks should be perfectly vertically aligned.   I believe the timing gear is keyed or has a dowel that ensures it can only be installed on the cam in one position, so I have to believe the cam is out of phase somehow. At the very least, with a triangular bolt pattern, it can only be installed in one of 3 different positions.   Before I pulled the front cover, the truck was running alright, no service engine soon lights except an occasional P0172 / rich condition. Timing -16 timing at idle (should be +16), and total -35% fuel trim, two conditions I haven't been able to figure out.   In related news, my injector tested pretty well, wasn't leaking, but I had it rebuilt anyway, and it's on it's way back to me.         Along with this discovery, the good and bad:   Good: The oil pan seal appears undamaged.   Bad: -The timing cover has been reused, and the positioning dowels have been broken. That could explain some of the leaking. -Some kind of white paste or grease was used to try to seal the oil pan seal and timing cover (since wiped off..). -Then, someone globbed silicone all over the front of the cover and also buried the ckp sensor in it. But, they didn't put any inside the cover or use RTV to try to seal the oil pan seal with the timing cover (good).
    • Grumpy Bear
      PF63 Oil Filters Going Away?

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      The guy that owns K&P filters last I checked in with him has over 300,000 miles on his Dodge base Hemi using his own 35 micron absolute stainless mesh filter from its first oil change.    The GM study I've posted a dozen times shows the relationship in engine life based in multiples of base units, not miles or years. That is the base unit is the number of miles the motor ran using the reference filter efficiency.    The above two paragraphs dismantle anecdotal arguments IF one changes oil often enough to prevent particle formation and the motor is in otherwise good shape. That is not full of silica (no air filter) or suffering a metallurgical issue that is not part of the lubrication discussion. Poor heat treat in example.   Data from UOA's I've reviewed from more than a few engines can show remarkably broad variations in oil cleanliness using the exact same filter over the course of an engines life.     Lastly there is the common sense of it. Wear debris WILL circulate the engine BEFORE it ever sees a filter in route to that filter and WILL harm the pump which NEVER sees filtered oil.    Alpha question then becomes, given the facts, how long do you believe is a reasonable service life from a vehicle you are certain you will not pass down? That is the junk yard will be it's resting place when you're done with it? (the moral issue most don't care about).    Omega question is then how diligent are you prepared to be in general mechanical, air & oil maintenance? Preventing particulates and keeping them sufficiently dilute; preventing the precursors from generation, amalgamation and precipitation.    If I get a good look at the engine bay of a vehicle I have a fair idea of the owners commitment to the inside of the power train. That 30 micron WIX is still more efficient than a sieve.                 
    • Tyler Gibbs
      PF63 Oil Filters Going Away?

      By Tyler Gibbs · Posted

      It also depends on what criteria someone is using for “best” when talking filters.  Are we going off best efficiency?   Best quality/QC?  Etc. because the two may not mutually exclusive.  

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...