2015 Yukon - Rattle in center console/dash

Tahoeboss · May 15, 2016

Well, The dealer finally found what was causing the rattle and I wouldn't believe it myself but its gone now. It actually was the wiring harness above in the sunroof. Would have sworn it was coming from the center stack but that was not the case. The dealer wrapped the harness and wire in felt tape. Problem gone. I think I may have seen an earlier post about the sunroof but I totally blew it off because I didn't think I had the same issue. Good luck all.

Tahoeboss · May 21, 2016

Rattle is back. Back to the drawing board... and the dealer

GMCustomerService · May 23, 2016

Rattle is back. Back to the drawing board... and the dealer

Hello Tahoeboss,

I am sorry to hear the first trip to the dealership only temporarily fixed the rattling concern. I see you are bringing your vehicle back, but if you would like any additional assistance in connecting with your dealer please feel free to private message me.

Best,

Julianne M.

GM Customer Care

SierraMyst · August 16, 2016

Update: We picked the truck up late last week after another round of repairs. The service manager told me they pulled the entire console apart. They are tired of seeing us. They had previously tried all of the recommendations in the bulletin I posted. This time one of the mechanics found a screw that mounts a part of the sub-dash assembly that once fully installed was resting right up against a metal part. The thought is this screw was rubbing the metal part causing the ratlle. The screw was removed and replaced with a shorter screw that doesn't touch the metal. So far (one week later) it hasn't rattled. Hope this helps everybody.

Bmurray,

Just following up on your rattle. Did it ever come back?

Do you have more specific details to the location of the screw in question?

bmurray22 · August 16, 2016

The rattle did NOT come back. It seems to be fixed now. The screw that they swapped out was right behind the ac controls I believe. The tech was using his phone to take pictures of how everything was assembled and noticed that the screw was touching another part. Jack Wilson GMC in St. Augustine, FL.

SierraMyst · August 16, 2016

The rattle did NOT come back. It seems to be fixed now. The screw that they swapped out was right behind the ac controls I believe. The tech was using his phone to take pictures of how everything was assembled and noticed that the screw was touching another part. Jack Wilson GMC in St. Augustine, FL.

Thanks. I may have to look into this further.

So the tech never showed you the location, huh?

bmurray22 · August 16, 2016

He showed me the picture but that was all. Sorry no help.

It definitely fixed the problem though. Consistent rattle has been gone since.

Tahoeboss · September 7, 2016

bmurray22 has it right. I pulled the console off myself because the last time, the dealer poked a small hole in the leather dash with his panel tool and they had to repair that. So, with that said, I investigated the issue again by myself.

There were 4 screws in the area that bmurray22 described. Two smaller screws hold in the rear air control unit head. I backed those out, placed a piece of 1/8in felt adhesive tape between the control unit and the sub dash where it rests against (little pulling pressure to create a small gap between the two), Then I slid another piece of felt adhesive tape over the screw shaft and pulled it down to the head (cut a small hole in the tape to fit the screw shaft through). I then screwed the screw back in and did not crank down on it, tightened to just snug. I did this on both sides of the control unit and to both screws.

Then if you look further down, there are larger bolts/screws (almost like lag bolts) the secure the center console into the sub dash frame. I pulled both of those bolts out as good measure and pulled the felt tape over the shaft of the bolt and slid it up to the head of the it. (once again, cutting a hole in the center of the tape and sliding it up the bolt shaft). I positioned the tape, felt side towards the screw heads in all instances. Tighten the lag bolts down to "just snug" and not super tight, maybe a 1/4 turn past hand tight. Put everything back together now and for a week now the rattle has not returned. I think with the tape, it pulled the screws back an 1/8in or so which was enough to keep them from hitting the metal behind. This method worked for me so far. Just praying it continues to work. I did not take pictures because I got too wrapped up in carefully taking everything apart that I forgot. I tried looking for a diagram of the console on the internet but could not find a decent one, otherwise I could point to the exact screws I referred to. Once you pull it apart, based on the description I gave, It will be obvious which ones are the culprit. Thank you bmurray22 for your help. I think you nailed it!!

SierraMyst · September 8, 2016

bmurray22 has it right. I pulled the console off myself because the last time, the dealer poked a small hole in the leather dash with his panel tool and they had to repair that. So, with that said, I investigated the issue again by myself.

There were 4 screws in the area that bmurray22 described. Two smaller screws hold in the rear air control unit head. I backed those out, placed a piece of 1/8in felt adhesive tape between the control unit and the sub dash where it rests against (little pulling pressure to create a small gap between the two), Then I slid another piece of felt adhesive tape over the screw shaft and pulled it down to the head (cut a small hole in the tape to fit the screw shaft through). I then screwed the screw back in and did not crank down on it, tightened to just snug. I did this on both sides of the control unit and to both screws.

Then if you look further down, there are larger bolts/screws (almost like lag bolts) the secure the center console into the sub dash frame. I pulled both of those bolts out as good measure and pulled the felt tape over the shaft of the bolt and slid it up to the head of the it. (once again, cutting a hole in the center of the tape and sliding it up the bolt shaft). I positioned the tape, felt side towards the screw heads in all instances. Tighten the lag bolts down to "just snug" and not super tight, maybe a 1/4 turn past hand tight. Put everything back together now and for a week now the rattle has not returned. I think with the tape, it pulled the screws back an 1/8in or so which was enough to keep them from hitting the metal behind. This method worked for me so far. Just praying it continues to work. I did not take pictures because I got too wrapped up in carefully taking everything apart that I forgot. I tried looking for a diagram of the console on the internet but could not find a decent one, otherwise I could point to the exact screws I referred to. Once you pull it apart, based on the description I gave, It will be obvious which ones are the culprit. Thank you bmurray22 for your help. I think you nailed it!!

Do you have a step by step of the order to remove the trim pieces since that all snap together in a particular manner?

Tahoeboss · September 9, 2016

I don't have an official step by step, just what I remember from memory. The trim pieces are all plastic held in by clips. They break easy if you don't do it just right. I use to install car stereos so I have experience removing trim so I do not recommend attempting this on your own if it is your first time.

1. Remove fuse cover, on the left side of instrument cluster- Bottom pulls out first then work your way up along the edge. (this panel faces the drivers side door.

2. 2 torx screws located in the fuse panel area need to be removed.

3. 2 torx screws need to be removed from underneath the knee bolster panel (piece under the steering wheel)

4. I chose to leave the Hood release cable connected.

5. Pull down and out starting near the left edge of knee bolster and work your way along until it comes free.

6. Bottom trim piece along center console that makes the outer edge of storage pocket needs to be pulled out. Start near edge on one side and work your way along. its just clipped in. Then passenger side, same piece needs to be removed.

7. Open up the center console lid.

8. Where center console hooks , lift up center console trim piece. This is stubborn and has a lot of resistance due to all the clips. It should be noted that only the top of the center console comes up, not the side trim (mine is wood pattern). You pull up near the console lid and cup holders and when you get near the rear air controls, you pull back and away. This is tricky. So is putting it back together. I left all the seat ac/heat controls connected and placed the top of the console to the side.

9. Lastly, I pulled the trim from around the radio and center stack. This is held in by clips and is very fragile. I cant stress how thin and fragile this piece is.

This will access all the screws I mentioned in my previous post.

** I took my time with this and the whole process took me about 4 hours to complete.

SierraMyst · September 9, 2016

I don't have an official step by step, just what I remember from memory. The trim pieces are all plastic held in by clips. They break easy if you don't do it just right. I use to install car stereos so I have experience removing trim so I do not recommend attempting this on your own if it is your first time.

1. Remove fuse cover, on the left side of instrument cluster- Bottom pulls out first then work your way up along the edge. (this panel faces the drivers side door.

2. 2 torx screws located in the fuse panel area need to be removed.

3. 2 torx screws need to be removed from underneath the knee bolster panel (piece under the steering wheel)

4. I chose to leave the Hood release cable connected.

5. Pull down and out starting near the left edge of knee bolster and work your way along until it comes free.

6. Bottom trim piece along center console that makes the outer edge of storage pocket needs to be pulled out. Start near edge on one side and work your way along. its just clipped in. Then passenger side, same piece needs to be removed.

7. Open up the center console lid.

8. Where center console hooks , lift up center console trim piece. This is stubborn and has a lot of resistance due to all the clips. It should be noted that only the top of the center console comes up, not the side trim (mine is wood pattern). You pull up near the console lid and cup holders and when you get near the rear air controls, you pull back and away. This is tricky. So is putting it back together. I left all the seat ac/heat controls connected and placed the top of the console to the side.

9. Lastly, I pulled the trim from around the radio and center stack. This is held in by clips and is very fragile. I cant stress how thin and fragile this piece is.

This will access all the screws I mentioned in my previous post.

** I took my time with this and the whole process took me about 4 hours to complete.

Thank you!

PeteG · August 4, 2018

On 9/7/2016 at 11:04 AM, Tahoeboss said:

bmurray22 has it right. I pulled the console off myself because the last time, the dealer poked a small hole in the leather dash with his panel tool and they had to repair that. So, with that said, I investigated the issue again by myself.

There were 4 screws in the area that bmurray22 described. Two smaller screws hold in the rear air control unit head. I backed those out, placed a piece of 1/8in felt adhesive tape between the control unit and the sub dash where it rests against (little pulling pressure to create a small gap between the two), Then I slid another piece of felt adhesive tape over the screw shaft and pulled it down to the head (cut a small hole in the tape to fit the screw shaft through). I then screwed the screw back in and did not crank down on it, tightened to just snug. I did this on both sides of the control unit and to both screws.

Then if you look further down, there are larger bolts/screws (almost like lag bolts) the secure the center console into the sub dash frame. I pulled both of those bolts out as good measure and pulled the felt tape over the shaft of the bolt and slid it up to the head of the it. (once again, cutting a hole in the center of the tape and sliding it up the bolt shaft). I positioned the tape, felt side towards the screw heads in all instances. Tighten the lag bolts down to "just snug" and not super tight, maybe a 1/4 turn past hand tight. Put everything back together now and for a week now the rattle has not returned. I think with the tape, it pulled the screws back an 1/8in or so which was enough to keep them from hitting the metal behind. This method worked for me so far. Just praying it continues to work. I did not take pictures because I got too wrapped up in carefully taking everything apart that I forgot. I tried looking for a diagram of the console on the internet but could not find a decent one, otherwise I could point to the exact screws I referred to. Once you pull it apart, based on the description I gave, It will be obvious which ones are the culprit. Thank you bmurray22 for your help. I think you nailed it!!

Hello. I was just wondering.... The 2 screws you mention, behind the rear ac controls, are they the 2 that are holding in the bezel around the center stack? Or are you referring to different screws? I've been chasing this rattle for months and have taken the dash apart as you outlined probably 6 times, but I can't seem to find those 2 screws.

Tahoeboss · August 5, 2018

No, I don't think so but not hundred percent sure any more. They hold the "head" unit of the ac controls. pull those and look behind that. Its been two years and am having a hard time remembering. Good luck. drove me nuts till I found it.

PeteG · August 5, 2018

1 hour ago, Tahoeboss said:

No, I don't think so but not hundred percent sure any more. They hold the "head" unit of the ac controls. pull those and look behind that. Its been two years and am having a hard time remembering. Good luck. drove me nuts till I found it.

Thanks man. I spent a few hours today trying. I ended up finding these photos online. I was struggling to find the screw til I realized in the photo the screen was up, and the wiring harness moved a bit.

Hope these photos help others.

cmatt · October 12, 2018

One other area that had a “buzzing” sound on my 2015 Yukon was the metal overlay trim around the radio/HVAC controls. If you pull the trim off and look at its rear side, you’ll notice pieces of felt in strategic places. I used some felt tape and put corresponding pieces on the vents on either side of the screen. Worked perfectly to stop the noise. I’ll grab some pics next time I remove it.