Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

No it's not.

 

In 2wd the front diff and the transfer case are not turning.

 

I believe if you have an electronic transfer case where the knob as an auto function then the front driveshaft is always spinning even in 2wd, at least in auto. Also since the front driveshaft is spinning the front diff will also be spinning just like the rear, but the hubs won't be locked. This is at least how I understand an auto 4x4 system is like.

Posted

 

I believe if you have an electronic transfer case where the knob as an auto function then the front driveshaft is always spinning even in 2wd, at least in auto. Also since the front driveshaft is spinning the front diff will also be spinning just like the rear, but the hubs won't be locked. This is at least how I understand an auto 4x4 system is like.I thi

My understanding is/was that it's the other way around - with the auto system in 2wd mode, the front axles are engaged and the front wheels are driving the diff, but the front driveline is disconnected at the transfer case.
When 'auto' kicks into 4wd it engages at the transfer case to complete the driveline power flow.
Posted

 

My understanding is/was that it's the other way around - with the auto system in 2wd mode, the front axles are engaged and the front wheels are driving the diff, but the front driveline is disconnected at the transfer case.
When 'auto' kicks into 4wd it engages at the transfer case to complete the driveline power flow.

 

 

Think about it though. It would be a lot less stress on the whole drivetrain if the front driveshaft spun all the time and when 4hi comes on in auto it's less stress and just need to lock the hubs. With an auto 4x4 system it needs to be able to go into and out of 4hi very quick so the driveshaft needs to already be spinning. If it took as long for it to be put into 4hi in auto than it takes if you turn the dial or shift in the floor to 4hi yourself then there would be advantage to auto 4x4. And if it has to get the driveshaft to start spinning then it would take as long as manually putting it in 4hi. In regular 2wd it may not spin, but in auto the driveshaft will spin. It may even spin either way. One day I might look at the driveshaft in 2wd and auto 4 to see for myself, that is if it's not raining.

Posted

With the front shafts already engaged, the drive shaft would be spinning, since the front diff would be driving it.

 

With it connected at the transfer case and the 1/2 shafts disconnected, the drive shaft would be turning, driven by the transfer case.

 

Either way the front drive shaft and front diff will be turning, hence the auto mode parasitic loss referred to in the OM.

Posted

isn't the front diff spinning even in 2wd? It's CV's hooked to the diff. the auto mode clutches are in the transfer case. That I do know.

Posted

isn't the front diff spinning even in 2wd? It's CV's hooked to the diff. the auto mode clutches are in the transfer case. That I do know.

 

I still have yet been able to look at mine in 2wd and auto since it's been raining all week. But, and I know they're different TCs, the front drive shaft didn't spin in 2wd on my old '98. I'm just assuming that the front driveshaft in my '14 spins all the time in auto, but not sure about in 2wd so it may or may not in regular 2wd. Plus I'm pretty sure they still use locking hubs which means the half shafts shouldn't spin unless it's in 4x4. Unless they've changed and they have something different in the front diff itself that does the same thing.

Posted

With no manual hubs the CV's are spinning all the time, no matter what the Tcase is in. Hence the front diff must be spinning all the time also. I think on my '94 4Runner there was a vacuum hose that ran down the diff, which engaged the spider gears or something like that.. I don't know. I know I saw what looks like a electric motor on the passenger side of our diffs. That might be something that disengages the the pinion so the front drive shaft does not spin in 2wd.

Posted

With no manual hubs the CV's are spinning all the time, no matter what the Tcase is in. Hence the front diff must be spinning all the time also. I think on my '94 4Runner there was a vacuum hose that ran down the diff, which engaged the spider gears or something like that.. I don't know. I know I saw what looks like a electric motor on the passenger side of our diffs. That might be something that disengages the the pinion so the front drive shaft does not spin in 2wd.

 

The electric motor you saw was probably for the steering since these 1500s have electronic rack and pinion. Tomorrow I'll be able to look under my truck while a buddy is in the driver seat letting it roll forward so I'll see what all spins in 2wd and auto 4. I'm just curious by now lol.

Posted (edited)

Yes, you are probably correct! Forgot about elec ps. Let us know man.

 

Neither the front driveshaft or the half shafts on the front axle moved while in both 2wd or auto. I was expecting one or both to turn at least in auto, but maybe he let the truck roll forward before it finished the switch to auto. So I guess neither moves unless it's in full time 4x4 or in auto when the ECU tells it to put it in 4. So seems like everything is done in the transfer case and they still have auto locking hubs, at least from what I can tell.

 

 

As for the OP, I've never had an issue when not using 4x4 for an extended period of time. When I had my '98 the only thing I would do is go to the boat landing near my house since it was gravel at the time and just tested to make sure 4x4 engaged in late Fall for the Winter. For the 10 years I had that truck ('04-'14) I never had a problem with the 4x4 other than 1 time and that was just the switch in the dash that went bad. So never had any of the actual mechanicals not work. And I did put that through hell which included mudding at least 1 or twice a month. As long as you abuse the truck too much and change the gear oil in the axles along with fluid in the transfer case then it should last the life of the truck without any problems. For sure now adays since GM seems to have beefed up the drivetrain in the past few years.

Edited by SouthernSilveradoGuy85
Posted

I can't believe this thread is still going. :driving:

Posted (edited)

The axle is engaged by an actuator on the right hand side. The CV's always spin.

It must be a lot of slack then cause I only had my buddy let the truck roll for a couple inches and neither the half shafts or front driveshaft moved while in 2wd or auto 4. At least that's how it is on my '14.

Edited by SouthernSilveradoGuy85
Posted

isn't the front diff spinning even in 2wd? It's CV's hooked to the diff. the auto mode clutches are in the transfer case. That I do know.

No. it doesn't spin in 2wd.

 

The front axles each have disconnect and there is a disconnect at the transfer case.

 

In 'auto', it will be spinning.

 

And of course, it turns in 4wd.

  • 5 years later...
Posted
On 5/2/2016 at 7:32 PM, FL335i said:

J-Doc. This is my first 1/2 ton 4WD. I've had a lot of toyotas and even a F250. None made the "rubbing" noise you described. But yes, if you are on dry pack, pavement etc in 4wd it will make the "rub" noise. I work in construction, large sites. I use Auto 4wd more than anything. I get the rubbing noise even on some good dirt roads when in 4 hi. But the more you use it the less noise it makes. I'll admit, I'm a experienced rock crawler, SAS'd 4runner, run Detroit lockers and it alarmed even me. Just the way these more modern systems operate. Everything is tighter. I have 44k on my truck and the noise is about half what it was when new. I changed my diff oils this past weekend and tried 4wd today on the job. even more quite. In short... NORMAL. Do not drive on good traction surfaces with any 4wd. Use the Auto 4wd. 4WD is for real-deal sand, mud etc; Loose surfaces.

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,760
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    MASONV88888888
    Newest Member
    MASONV88888888
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 1,492 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I’m definitely interested to hear the end result here. 
    • My 2025 Silverado 1500 had to receive a brand-new engine (long block) under warranty last month at only around 16,500 miles. Before the replacement, the truck repeatedly displayed "Engine Oil Level Low" warnings, even though the Oil Life Monitor still showed around 50% remaining after about 6,000 miles since my last oil change. After seeing the warning several times, I checked the dipstick with the engine cold, and the oil level was completely normal. The next day, the message escalated to "Add Engine Oil." At first, I assumed it was just a faulty oil level sensor, so I brought the truck to the dealership. After inspecting the engine, they found internal cylinder wall scoring and ultimately replaced the entire long block under warranty. Before this happened, I was planning to install a 4-inch lift and suspension upgrade on my truck. After needing a new engine at just 16,500 miles, I honestly don't see the point anymore. I also contacted GM to ask whether my vehicle qualified for a buyback, but I was informed that it does not at this time. Anyway, this experience has left me with serious concerns about the long-term reliability of this engine. I sincerely hope NHTSA expands the current investigation or recall to include 2025 model and performs a thorough inspection of affected vehicles. My biggest concern is that these engines may fail shortly after the powertrain warranty expires. If GM truly stands behind this engine, then at the very least, please consider extending the powertrain warranty to 10 years for affected owners. That would go a long way toward restoring customer confidence.
    • Without exception but then I'm the odd duck, right? I know what goes into that test, how it is calculated and thus how to beat it. But EPA values are often not beaten by the general public and the government has in past years adjusted the means and methods to come to those values to more closely approximate "Joe Average".    The only real trick to beating that EPA average is don't drive like "Joe Average".    It's the same method you used to profit from "Economic Migration" and in doing so beat the 'stats'. But you, like me, are not "Joe Average".     The thing you don't seem to grasp is this "Purchasing Power Index" isn't forward looking. It doesn't predict what it going to be but looks backward and states what it was. They are not telling us what the THINK, they are telling us what they MEASURED. Example:    Wife says "I'm going to lose 40 pounds by Christmas". May she does, maybe she doesn't but the doctors office who weighed her when she made that statement and again at Christmas only REPORTS what the RESULT was. You and I can banter about what was possible and what aunt Tilly did till the cows come home but the result is the result. Arguing otherwise is.....irrational. That's all I'm saying. This isn't about:      What you are calling a 'Statistic' is a RESULT not a CALCUATION and as a result the RULE. Like gravity as a rule, it can not be broken. 
    • Just wanted to say thank you for posting this. Years later, your thread is still helping Silverado owners.   I bought my 2025 Silverado 1500 in January 2025, and I've had what feels like the exact same rattle since day one. After reading your findings, I believe my truck has the same issue with the cable carrier contacting the rear sliding window. To be honest, I had pretty much given up on pursuing the issue. It wasn't until I recently drove another brand's pickup that I realized just how quiet their cabin was—and how noisy mine has been all along. On my truck, the rattle happens on almost any paved road, gets even worse on rougher pavement, and I can even hear it during braking and acceleration.   I actually referenced your thread when submitting my case to GM, hoping they'll recognize this as a recurring issue instead of treating it as an isolated incident. The reason I reached out to GM first is because my dealership told me they would need to keep the truck for at least two days just to diagnose the problem. I was concerned that even after two days, they still might not be able to identify the source of the rattle before giving the truck back to me. I had also asked a few dealerships about this issue during previous service visits, but none of them seemed to know what was causing it or had a solution. That's why I decided to contact GM directly first, hoping they might already have an official repair procedure or guidance for this issue.   I also hope GM eventually comes up with an official fix for this problem. I have a feeling there are many Silverado owners experiencing the same rattle, but most either choose to live with it or simply don't know what the cause is.   Really appreciate you taking the time to document your diagnosis. Your post is still making a difference years later.
    • I have 2 choices. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...