Jump to content

HID's wont power on


DJett

Recommended Posts

Posted

I just installed my FRS3.0 retrofit kit from TRS in my Silverado LTZ. The lights will power on if connected directly to the battery, but wont power on if the capacitor and relay harness are plugged directly into the plug from the headlight. Does anyone know what would cause this? The factory halogen bulbs will work if plugged into the factory plug. Thanks in advance for the help.

Posted

The positive and negative wires may need to be reversed. I installed HID lights in my truck and one side didn't work. Checked the polarity of the plug and it needed to be switched. A normal headlight bulb does not care what terminal is positive and what one is negative. Use a meter to check polarity to double check.

Posted

As atated above.... You will need to reverse the polarity iys a GM thing i think.... Had to do the same on my colorado

 

Sent from my Note 4 on Tapashit

Posted

I reversed the plug but they still wont turn on, I checked the capacitor and its doesn't have any voltage when plugged into the trucks factory harness. I'm thinking that maybe that is bad, but don't understand why it would work when powered directly from the battery?

Posted

I reversed the plug but they still wont turn on, I checked the capacitor and its doesn't have any voltage when plugged into the trucks factory harness. I'm thinking that maybe that is bad, but don't understand why it would work when powered directly from the battery?

You do have one end leading into the harness connected to the battery right? And the other power wire going to the headlight (switch wire)?

 

edit: May want to check the plug and make sure its getting a good connection from the headlight harness. I had the same issue and ended up making some adapters to go between the factory headlight plug and the ballast plug. The terminals made contact when hooked up. Luckily I had several spare plugs from various retrofits so I made an adapter and it worked. Some people have had luck using force when plugging them up I however did not.

Posted

Thanks for the help everyone, I was looking at my relay harness today and it is for a 9006 bulb. TRS said this is the wrong harness for my truck.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I will admit I haven't experimented much with pressure drops beyond the numbers I put in and part of that is that the numbers I used are fairly low and then found out it would trigger regardless at that 35 psi. Having said that I had tried before had changed the placard pressures and being that I have a 1 ton set to 80 on the placard for the rear I believe it triggered close to 60, the front I don't recall now for sure but thought maybe it could get close to 45 from that factory 60 placard pressure. So I never did figure out if it was a number of psi from placard pressure to the alarm or a percentage of the total placard number as some figured it was like a 25% drop from placard pressure would trigger it. So as to try and answer your question, I believe I set the placard pressure on the front to 47 or so and while I run the front tires at 40, they have dipped below that some if its colder and I haven't put "winter air" in yet and never once have had the front alarm go off. I would say that the answer your looking for is no, that if you set your placard pressure to 45, you have a certain amount of room to drop below that pressure before the alarm will go off.    The pressures you decide to run in your truck, that ends up being what makes sense to you based on what your carrying in your truck or if towing, then have to bump them back up to something that will carry the load in the rear and the fronts typically left at the same pressure. It all comes down to that chart I put the link to and using an accurate roadside scale to be your guide, both unloaded and then loaded to know your minimum safe pressures.    I just wish GM would allow a person to change the readings for the tire pressures to the English system of pounds as I have to look at that goofy metric reading that will never ever jive in my head and will go over and change it just to figure out what they are if need be and then change it back. 
    • That part I understand, that the dealer can do it. But I'm not understanding why updates that were available to the truck since it left the factory, or the dealership originally, would not still be available to it without dealer intervention.   I'm thinking along the lines of recalls. They stay available until they are completed. Why not updates as well, especially since some of those can be safety related also?
    • That's good to know, but I don't think I'll even be running them under 45 in the rear  unless it's on the sand or something but will only be for a short distance anyways!    I didn't read all the instructions in the booklet yet, but do you know let's say I set the rear psi on the placard to 45, will the warning light come on soon as it drops under 45 or is there a percentage it has to drop from the set value before the warning light is triggered?
    • That's bad.  Like, its probably destroying the stub axle the CV slides into.   Do you have a proper lift installed with differential lowering brackets?  Did you install AT4/Trail Boss factory CV axles?  
    • Hot? New Jersey? Today? I was working on my old 2000 Silverado 1500 today. Believe me, it was boiling hot today. As it has been.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...