Jump to content

Odd rear tire wear

Taaaaaaahoe?

Recommended Posts

Taaaaaaahoe? Enthusiast

Taaaaaaahoe?

Posted
Posted

DSCF0040.JPG

 

DSCF0038.JPG

 

This is on both sides, the right rear seems to be worse, but it is on both sides.  I am getting new wheels/tires this weekend, and don;t want brand new tires to wear like this too.

  Any other problems thoughts besided a wheel alignment?  Thats all I have in mind.....help

 Mike

BadBowtie Enthusiast

BadBowtie

Posted
Posted
There's not much to adjust on the rear of the truck, it almost looks like the choppiness was caused on the fronts, they usually wear like that when not rotated.  I can't tell ya what would cause it on teh rear, except maybe that it is not properly balanced or maybe the tire just does not wear well when down around, it looks like 2-4/32" of tread...???
Taaaaaaahoe? Enthusiast

Taaaaaaahoe?

Posted
  • Author
Posted

These could have been up front, and rotated to back, im not sure...just bought it.  none the less prob not a bad idea for me to get an alignment before I put new rubber on!

 mike

 

Thanks!

Stepside Z Senior Enthusiast

Stepside Z

Posted
Posted
I agree that those tires may have been on the front and rotated to the back. Shocks look oem and thay may have contributed to the problem.
woyster_00z71 Enthusiast

woyster_00z71

Posted
Posted

The tires on my '01 Tahoe that I just purchased about 2 months ago look identical to yours.  I don't know the history of the tires since I bought it used.  The front end was pretty out of alignment when I bought it (dealer aligned it as part of the deal) so I was wondering if the tires were originally up front and had just been rotated to the rear.  But it is all a guess.

 

I too am looking to replace the tires but I want some bigger tires to go on the 17" Z71 rims after I put on a 3" body lift.  $$$$

 

B.J.

GF7PE Enthusiast

GF7PE

Posted
Posted
lack of rotation...I guy I work with hasnt rotated the tires on his F150 since new and has the same wear
Taaaaaaahoe? Enthusiast

Taaaaaaahoe?

Posted
  • Author
Posted
worn shocks and underinflation could also be the culprit.

Any good way to tell if shocks are bad?

 I assume they are OEM, and have been on there for 52k.  They still ride nice...  to me anyway.

 

Any suggestions for new ones?

 

MIke

97C1500&84Z28 Enthusiast

97C1500&84Z28

Posted
Posted
worn shocks and underinflation could also be the culprit.

Any good way to tell if shocks are bad?

 I assume they are OEM, and have been on there for 52k.  They still ride nice...  to me anyway.

 

Any suggestions for new ones?

 

MIke

52K miles on OEM? Definately gone. OEM shocks are usually good for 15K - 20K miles. Can't go wrong with Bilsteins. I got mine from www.offroadwarehouse.com. Had them about a year (about 10K miles) and no complaints yet.  :thumb:

Taaaaaaahoe? Enthusiast

Taaaaaaahoe?

Posted
  • Author
Posted
worn shocks and underinflation could also be the culprit.

Any good way to tell if shocks are bad?

 I assume they are OEM, and have been on there for 52k.  They still ride nice...  to me anyway.

 

Any suggestions for new ones?

 

MIke

52K miles on OEM? Definately gone. OEM shocks are usually good for 15K - 20K miles. Can't go wrong with Bilsteins. I got mine from www.offroadwarehouse.com. Had them about a year (about 10K miles) and no complaints yet.  :thumb:

Suggest doing all 4 together I assume?

   only that many miles on OEM huh?  Wow...  sucks!!

 

Mike

seadoons Enthusiast

seadoons

Posted
Posted
I have never seen "replace shocks" in a Chevy suggested maintence manual...or in any vehicle's maintence manual for that matter.  Does anybody else think that shocks should only last for 15 - 20k miles?
baroth1 Enthusiast

baroth1

Posted
Posted

A "cupped" wear pattern on the tires can be caused by a wheel and tire that are out of balance or by weak shock absorbers or struts. This type of wear occurs because the wheel bounces up and down as it rolls down the highway. The cure here is to have the wheel balanced or replace the worn shocks or struts.

 

The wear looks like "cupping" to me.

 

Brent

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,860
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    HWN808
    Newest Member
    HWN808
    Joined

  • Who's Online   7 Members, 0 Anonymous, 995 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • OnTheReel
      Some Assembly is Required

      By OnTheReel · Posted

      https://www.gm-trucks.com/why-gm-chose-0w-30-gen-6-v8-oil/   The swing back to reality continues…
    • richard wysong
      Gas Prices

      By richard wysong · Posted

      Diesel $5.42 at the truck stop on the hi-way
    • Chuck FB
      Joke Thread

      By Chuck FB · Posted

    • txab
      Gas Prices

      By txab · Posted

      $3.59  
    • needafix
      2019+ Brake failure, it's complicated

      By needafix · Posted

      I'm not sure if this should be a new topic, let me know if it's out of place. This my first post. Thanks 85077522 - AC Delco GM Genuine Parts Brake Master Cylinders. Anyone else had to replace this brake master cylinder yet. I didn't do any brake work, it looks like new parts and I've had the truck for about 4k miles, 119k total miles.  When it started to throw codes I did the calibrations with a bidirectional scanner and got the codes to clear but they came back so I did the routine; base bleed, automated bleed and final base bleed. All that with Bosch ES16-32N fluid (please look it up). That seemed to fix it but 100ish miles later it failed again so I ran the same process but with a pressure bleeder this time and got the same results, fixed for 100ish miles. The original fluid looked bad and I thought I got most of it out, it could've been the wrong fluid. The codes; P25A2, C05B0-00, C2A1B. I can get them to clear but not for long. The C05B0 indicates a leak in the front circuit (which is bone dry) so I'm thinking of doing the bleed process on that front again today and I don't know if that's taboo to just do the front but at this point it seems like it's worth the try anyway. The new master cylinder/module unit is supposed to get here today. But now I'm pretty much convinced this install is over my head. I've called several shops and some mobile guys that I know but this thing is like radio active material, scary wise. I did get 2 local shops say they should be able to do it, one says he has the SPS2 programing capability. And with the battery disconnected is there supposed to be pedal resistance, mine is to the floor, then if I pump it I can get some resistance. I had a panic stop prior to this issue which may have contributed from what I read. And on the first attempt to bleed and hydraulic test the scanner listed things to look for and one was any gaps between the pad and rotors which I did notice on the RF corner and I removed the outer pad (where the gap was) cleaned it and the hardware and didn't see a gap after that but will re-check it. I read that if pushing the caliper pistons back then you're supposed to open the bleeder so as to not push fluid backwards into the abs module or it will damage it. If that's true then that's also a possibility from the previous owner having the brakes changed before I got it. I'm using an XTool ip500 scanner. Any suggestions, questions and comments welcome. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...