Rear Brake Job.

Jasonsupafly · March 16, 2016

2001 Silverado Z71 4x4 5.3 Extended Cab.

Rear Calipers are a single piston setup.

What are yall's thoughts about aftermarket rotors and pads. Ive used parts from Advance Auto Parts in the past. Rear brakes were done by a shop in 2014 and I am getting a grinding noise and drag on driver's side. Not sure why yet. Looked and its time for them to be changed again. I cant remember the brand pads I had installed. Im sure they were Wagner or Wearever,

Question is would it be better to go with AC Delco rotors and pads? I know the price for AC rotors are double the price of the Advance Auto ones, If im looking up the right part number on Rock Auto the AC pads can be had for about 20 bucks more than the aftermarkets I can get from Advance Auto.

Just looking for some input on the route I need to go. Is it worth buying the AC Delco parts or would yall recommend something else?

Thanks in advance!

sahls01gmc · March 16, 2016

I'd look into replacing your rear calipers. If they don't fully release they will rub and wear down really fast. Maybe you could try flushing the rear lines as well.

At any rate, I would definitely go for AC Delco over anything at Advanced Auto. Rock Auto really helps afford better parts.

stereojnky · March 16, 2016

If they are going out that quickly and you say they are dragging, I would look into replacing the rubber brake lines to the caliper.

I bought a 1976 c10 and the left front caliper would lock up after a brake application and release after a period of time. Turned out to be the line and it looked perfectly fine.

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sahls01gmc · March 16, 2016

^ Good point. I had a similar situation with my front brakes, turned out to be the master cylinder failed. Almost identical situation. I have now replaced every part except the hard steel lines.....and my brakes are better than new!

Daryl LBZ · March 16, 2016

I'd either go with ACDelco or another good brand name part. Definitely buy from Rock Auto.

stereojnky · March 16, 2016

I did the same thing. That's how I found out that's what it was. The truck had been sitting up so I added a power brake booster and replaced everything but the brake lines.

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MikeInCtown · March 22, 2016

A little late, but check to see how tight the pads are in the calipers. For some odd reason, new aftermarket pads fit into those SS pad clips so tight that you need a screwdriver and or hammer to pry them out. Since they don't move and are so tight you get a lot of drag and heat.

I have a new right rear caliper on my truck and for some reason that one was dragging and getting hot while the left side was working fine. I pulled the clips out and let the pads sit in the bracket grooves alone and so far it seems like the brakes are working much better, and so far I haven't noticed any brake smell. If the calipers are new then the clips may have enough tolerance, but as soon as you get a little rust or add in the premium pads, the tolerance seem so tight that the clips won't work.

I've used a ton of different pads and rotors over my lifetime, but I am absolutely in love with the Autozone rotors that are anodized or coated black. I've had them for a year on my truck so far and there is only a slight amount of surface rust, if any at all on the non machined parts. The pads are also wearing very flat and even, even though the right side was dragging.

00Silverado4x4 · March 23, 2016

All double check your parking brake shoes in the rears. May need to adjust one or both....could be what's "grinding".

Don'tGiveATruck · March 23, 2016

A little late, but check to see how tight the pads are in the calipers. For some odd reason, new aftermarket pads fit into those SS pad clips so tight that you need a screwdriver and or hammer to pry them out. Since they don't move and are so tight you get a lot of drag and heat.

I have a new right rear caliper on my truck and for some reason that one was dragging and getting hot while the left side was working fine. I pulled the clips out and let the pads sit in the bracket grooves alone and so far it seems like the brakes are working much better, and so far I haven't noticed any brake smell. If the calipers are new then the clips may have enough tolerance, but as soon as you get a little rust or add in the premium pads, the tolerance seem so tight that the clips won't work.

I've used a ton of different pads and rotors over my lifetime, but I am absolutely in love with the Autozone rotors that are anodized or coated black. I've had them for a year on my truck so far and there is only a slight amount of surface rust, if any at all on the non machined parts. The pads are also wearing very flat and even, even though the right side was dragging.

I hear ya about the aftermarket pads going in a little snug sometimes. What I've done before is just take a dremel with a grinding bit and slightly enlarge the groove in the break pad that slides along the clips. Without those clips you get quite a bit of rattle out of your brake pads which is more evident probably within the front calipers because the rear calipers are so far away from the cab.

MikeInCtown · March 23, 2016

I hear ya about the aftermarket pads going in a little snug sometimes. What I've done before is just take a dremel with a grinding bit and slightly enlarge the groove in the break pad that slides along the clips. Without those clips you get quite a bit of rattle out of your brake pads which is more evident probably within the front calipers because the rear calipers are so far away from the cab.

Yeah I've actually taken a file and or grinder to the tabs on the pads to get them to slide in the clips easier. I finally gave up and just took them out and so far (driving it 5 times) I have noticed no extra heat from the right rear as I had before. It would get so bad that the aluminum rim was hot to the touch. Now its not even warm and feels the same as the left side.

The pads I have are the duralast gold and they have a pad on the backside. The caliper also has the spring clip that holds the pads down, so even with the clips on the side missing, there is very little chance for a rattle. Though with the truck being 12 years old with 204,000 miles on it, a rattle is the last of my worries.