Jump to content

Range AFM Disabler Warranty Safe in 2016?

falconman515

Recommended Posts

sonerick Enthusiast

sonerick

Posted
Posted

Works good on "most" 2016 and below; 2017- not so much, yet.

 

Works fine on my 2017. No codes, no battery drain, and most importantly no AFM. I've been running it for about 4 months now, only unplugging it once or twice for trips to the dealer.

  • Replies 63
  • Created
  • Last Reply
66deadhead Enthusiast

66deadhead

Posted
Posted

this is exactly what i wanted to know! thank you very much for the helpful info!!!

Yes sir! You are very welcome.

falconman515 Enthusiast

falconman515

Posted
  • Author
Posted

do you recommend this brand? any issues with it after getting software update?

 

Honestly a while back I would have said No! But I don't know now. After installing this I got a weird backup sensor error and attributed it to this device since it just started right after I plugged it in. BUT I think it was pure timing as I found this error to be a OEM software error that was common and needed an update. This error continued for many months after removing the Range device and I finally got it into service about 2 months ago and it got the update and nothing since. It only popped up like twice every couple weeks so it wasn;t a pressing issue for me to get resolved.

 

Was it from this Range device??? I think now No ... BUT at the time when it first threw that error code was 2 days after installing the Range so I was DONE at that point. I removed it and sold it the next day.

 

I thought I would HATE the V4 mode .... but after time you honestly don't even notice it anymore ... and I even have a loud ass Flomaster on my truck and it still doesn't bother me.

 

So for me I will not be using this or anything else during my factory warranty.

 

But to be honest I think it was fine ... it was was just a coincidence that that error popped up right after I installed the range device I think.

dorkweed Enthusiast

dorkweed

Posted
Posted

Bought my truck mid-July last year. Had the Range just a couple weeks later. I now use that Tonsiki OBD switch that was mentioned a ways back. When I'm towing my work trailer around suburbia, or running errands around the same; I use M5 and have the Range disabled via the switch. About the only time I actually use the range is if I'm gonna be on more open roads and/or interstates.

 

Mine has worked perfectly since I got. No codes, no nothing..................just V8.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,915
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    ChristopherDobson
    Newest Member
    ChristopherDobson
    Joined

  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,215 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • ChristopherDobson
      Vehicle Payments

      By ChristopherDobson · Posted

      Monthly payment is only part of the equation. With today's prices and interest rates, I'd look at the total monthly cost: payment, insurance, registration, fuel, maintenance, and expected repairs. A vehicle that fits comfortably into your budget is usually the better choice than stretching for a higher trim. I've also kept my vehicles longer over the past few years. New cars have gotten expensive enough that driving one for 10+ years, while staying on top of maintenance, often ends up being the most cost-effective approach.
    • Grumpy Bear
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      10 Ford and Chevy engines proven to reach 300,000 miles   You may note a common 3K OCI on this list of gas motors. I skipped over the diesels. Dh'O. 
    • jake111
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By jake111 · Posted

      Thanks newdude!  By the time manual selection is needed, I'm probably too much of a control-freak to depend on the transmission sensing braking to activate automatic downshifting.  I would be anticipating the situation and already be manually downshifting.   This truck replaced a 2004.5 LLY diesel with the Allison 5-speed.  Putting it in T/H made noticeable differences (when the torque converter locked, upshift points, downshift behavior).  On this 2024 gasser with the 10L1000 I haven't been able to detect much, if any, difference.  Ok, I can never tell now when the torque converter locks up.  But I also don't notice differences in shifting.  For downhills, I've probably already manually downshifted by then anyway.  Since it's also more awkward (than the 2004.5) to engage/disengage I don't even bother.  Or maybe it doesn't really matter with just a 3k lb. camper in the bed?   Thanks also for the list of reasons the charging system might select various voltages.  However, what I am seeing doesn't fall into any of those categories.  It very definitely, and very consistently, rises after coasting/braking.  Maybe not immediately, but not very long after coasting/braking.  Very consistently drops voltage when no longer coasting/braking.  It might also be interacting with the camper battery charging (I might disconnect the camper and see if it changes the charging behavior).  I also need to recheck turning on headlights for when I want to force it to charge the camper.   Another JR, in June I converted the camper to LiFePO4.  Since it's not a good idea to try to charge lithiums directly using truck, I installed a Victron Orion XS DC-DC charger (which BTW is AMAZING!!).  Being cheap, I only had to buy that one item (besides the battery, of course) to do the conversion.  The camper OEM 120v battery charger (only 19 years old and works perfectly) and the truck feed the input to the DC-DC charger (not at the same time).  But I didn't want the camper charger feeding back to the truck so I kept the old separator.  I considered replacing the separator with a 30amp diode but that means more work and might add another 1/2 volt drop.  One thing that surprised me was the voltage drop over the long 10awg wire run, so I can only charge smoothly at 8 amps (because the DC-DC charger is completely configurable).  Another reason I don't want an added voltage drop with the diode.  I might also be a little lazy but all this work is being done under the sink with a small cabinet opening.    
    • davester
      cam upgrade in CA

      By davester · Posted

      apparently CA smog is (or at least was)  checking that the vehicle is using the oem and/or a ca smog approved tune, so I expect you'll fail inspection doing it.
    • davester
      Possible lifter tick after DOD delete

      By davester · Posted

      yes, leaking exhaust will mess up o2 sensor readings, which in turn messes up fuel trims.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...