Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

 

Baking them can cause issues. Some of the plastic inside warps.

Those are sweet!

Have you baked them before? What sort of issues? More so than the 14/15 lights?

Posted

Ok everyone, the group buy is open for your Morimoto XB Fog Light orders. Plenty of GMC fog lights in stock. Square fog lights for the Chevy guys shouldbe arriving today.

 

We get 25% off and free shipping. Please go to www.theretrofitsource.com and place your order. The coupon code is gmfoggb.

This code will be good until the end of the month and anyone may participate. Feel free to spread the word. You may want to order sooner rather than later to ensure you get a set if this thing really blows up.

 

Thanks guys!

 

Tim

I jumped in on this, works for Canadians!

Posted

Hello guys I have 2015 SLE and I bought the 2014/2015 Sierra NON SLT to 2016-2017 1/2 Ton SLT LED Headlight Harness from Gen5diy everything is working fine the only issue I faced is if I just want to turn on the "C" I cant it comes on with the whole headlight it doesn't work alone, the DRL works fine during the day but lets say at night I just want to turn on the "C" without the Headlights I cant, is there another harness! I talked to Jarod he said this how its designed!

Posted

Hello guys I have 2015 SLE and I bought the 2014/2015 Sierra NON SLT to 2016-2017 1/2 Ton SLT LED Headlight Harness from Gen5diy everything is working fine the only issue I faced is if I just want to turn on the "C" I cant it comes on with the whole headlight it doesn't work alone, the DRL works fine during the day but lets say at night I just want to turn on the "C" without the Headlights I cant, is there another harness! I talked to Jarod he said this how its designed!

Jarod is right, the DRL is just that, a Daytime Running Lamp. You can't run them at night without the headlight.

Posted

Man, I should have waited to buy my fogs. Would have been nice to save $50.

Posted

Hello guys I have 2015 SLE and I bought the 2014/2015 Sierra NON SLT to 2016-2017 1/2 Ton SLT LED Headlight Harness from Gen5diy everything is working fine the only issue I faced is if I just want to turn on the "C" I cant it comes on with the whole headlight it doesn't work alone, the DRL works fine during the day but lets say at night I just want to turn on the "C" without the Headlights I cant, is there another harness! I talked to Jarod he said this how its designed!

 

 

Im considering doing exactly this. Is it annoying to you that way? I'm curious, otherwise was it plug n play with the Gen5diy harness? (Part #)?

Posted

Those are sweet!

Have you baked them before? What sort of issues? More so than the 14/15 lights?

 

Yes I have, and these were done by Fastheadlights with one off Diode Dynamics C-shape switchbacks. Its not as easy as with 14-15 lights, and the lenses can flex rather easily causing lens distortions.

Posted

Jarod is right, the DRL is just that, a Daytime Running Lamp. You can't run them at night without the headlight.

Yeah DRL works well during daytime its bright, but what I know if you want to turn it on you can without turning on headlights and the "c" turns on dim. Like the original 2016 they have 3 selections 1-DRL 2- "C" on with the headlights 3- "C" only

Posted

 

Yes I have, and these were done by Fastheadlights with one off Diode Dynamics C-shape switchbacks. Its not as easy as with 14-15 lights, and the lenses can flex rather easily causing lens distortions.

Are you talking about the internal lens for the C warping due to heat?

Posted (edited)

Yeah DRL works well during daytime its bright, but what I know if you want to turn it on you can without turning on headlights and the "c" turns on dim. Like the original 2016 they have 3 selections 1-DRL 2- "C" on with the headlights 3- "C" only

You have 4 options

 

off - auto - park - on

 

Off - All lights off including DRL

Auto - C is on as DRL at full brightness during day while truck in drive, headlights turn on automatically with sensor, when the headlights turn on the C will dim.

Park - C is on as park lamp dimmed, side clearance light is on headlights are off.

On - C is on and dimmed clearance light is on headlights are on.

 

There is no way not even on 2016 to turn just the C on at full brightness with the factory wiring and controls. A custom wiring job and separate switch would be required. I' not familiar with the wiring harness for the 2015 SLE but it originally didn't have DRL LED's so it likely doesn't have a separate DRL wire as the DRL function was integrated in the headlight itself. I'm not sure the method Gen5 used to get around this to activate the DRL during the day without turning on the headlight bulbs. Did you install the harnesses yourself and did they require additional wiring beyond just being plug and play?

Edited by abominable z71
  • Like 1
Posted

You have 4 options

 

off - auto - park - on

 

Off - C is on as DRL at full brightness headlights will not turn on automatically with sensor C only lights up when truck is in drive.

Auto - C is on as DRL at full brightness during day while truck in drive, headlights turn on automatically with sensor, when the headlights turn on the C will dim.

Park - C is on as park lamp dimmed, side clearance light is on headlights are off.

On - C is on and dimmed clearance light is on headlights are on.

 

There is no way not even on 2016 to turn just the C on at full brightness with the factory wiring and controls. A custom wiring job and separate switch would be required. I' not familiar with the wiring harness for the 2015 SLE but it originally didn't have DRL LED's so it likely doesn't have a separate DRL wire as the DRL function was integrated in the headlight itself. I'm not sure the method Gen5 used to get around this to activate the DRL during the day without turning on the headlight bulbs. Did you install the harnesses yourself and did they require additional wiring beyond just being plug and play?

Off topic, Any progress on DRL shutoff?

  • Like 1
Posted

Park - C is on as park lamp dimmed, side clearance light is on headlights are off.

This is what I meant this is what not working :)

Posted (edited)

Are you talking about the internal lens for the C warping due to heat?

Yes.....the bezel that holds the factor c-shape led lens....its like a thinner shroud

 

You can also get hairline fractures on the inside of the clear lense when pulling them apart.

Edited by Strykers_Inc

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,782
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    ShowMeShooter1332
    Newest Member
    ShowMeShooter1332
    Joined
  • Who's Online   3 Members, 0 Anonymous, 5,382 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I was around and remember that era very well, so I'm calling b/s on that statement. If they were that bad no police department or taxi company would've bought a single one ... but they were used in both services (and fire) for DECADES. They were bulletproof and proven. Even the early 21st century ones weren't too bad! The early models were legendary.   Mine is proof, but people like atlas are blinded by agenda and refuse to believe facts right before their very eyes.   Even decades after they were built, a new generation started driving them, posting all their builds and shenanigans on Grandmarq.net and Crownvic.net. The failures would show up then, since they all were deep past 100k-150k miles by that point, and younger drivers tend to be a little aggressive, especially with vehicles than can lay a one-tire fire for as long as you hold your foot in it. They've more than proven themselves over the decades.   The only thing that'll really take them out is road salt. The bodies and sheet metal were garbage. A victim of the cheapout FoMoCo and GM have been partaking in before then, and since.   Today it's the stuff that counts - the undercarriage that rots away first!     
    • Let me know how your vehicles do in 10 years. You don't know ******, kid. 😂    There's a reason that Panther platform was used as police, fire, and taxi service for DECADES ... long before you were born, apparently.
    • If your connector also has a big lever to get the connector on and off, you don't want to force the lever either way, as it becomes a bigger problem if you bust the lever or the mechanism it works.
    • It's just useful to disconnect the battery to prevent odd shorting out when unplugging/plugging stuff together.  I also  touch the two cable ends together (after disonnecting) to drain the small amount of stored battery energy in various modules.   I believe the main system where you need to be more concerned with, so you need to do the above and then wait some time, iss when you are working on the air bag system, to prevent inadvertent firing of the air bags.   The in-cab switches are just that, plain switches, it's generally not a problem to swap them in/out.  For my '12, I'll get an error message on the dash if I power up the truck w them unplugged, but that's it (power up= turn the ignition on).   The ITBC located above the spare tire is a computer that manages the trailer brake system.  That is probably more important to have the battery disconnected.  It does have to be programmed to the truck, either before or after it's installed, for it to work.  For my '12, I had a very hard time reinstalling the main connector to it (IDK if yours is the same or not), it turned out the silicon seal was jamming up, preventing it from going on all the way.  I finally got it fully installed by lubing the seal with a bit of dielectric grease, then it slid on and latched in place easily.
    • JR ! I just got the truck back from the Dealership today . The technician did a cold remote start on the truck this morning and it made the noise . It was determined that it was a starter issue and replaced it under warranty . Of course   it did not make the sound after a new starter was put in because the truck was not cold . We will we see what happens tomorrow morning when I start the truck cold  . Keep tuned !   Oh I found a video on YouTube of a cold start and it did the same thing your truck and mine do , I will see if I can find it and post it up
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...