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2014 frame rust silverado 1500

donnyrogers123

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Raptordude Enthusiast

Raptordude

Posted
Posted

Stuffs gonna rust, there's no getting around it. Especially in areas where they salt. I'd let it go for a few years then re paint it. My truck is a 2001 and was untouched until 3 months ago when I sanded down and repainted everything 0a181b5f239b0bf4a60bd7cc04580a7a.jpg

 

 

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Cosmic Charlie Enthusiast

Cosmic Charlie

Posted
Posted

Stuffs gonna rust, there's no getting around it. Especially in areas where they salt. I'd let it go for a few years then re paint it. My truck is a 2001 and was untouched until 3 months ago when I sanded down and repainted everything 0a181b5f239b0bf4a60bd7cc04580a7a.jpg

 

 

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nice pix !

davester Senior Enthusiast

davester

Posted
Posted

Stuffs gonna rust, there's no getting around it. Especially in areas where they salt. I'd let it go for a few years then re paint it. My truck is a 2001 and was untouched until 3 months ago when I sanded down and repainted everything 0a181b5f239b0bf4a60bd7cc04580a7a.jpg

 

 

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If your bed is still off, I would suggest having a close look at the rear brake lines, as they tend to rust (particularly where it goes behind the fuel tank) and it's WAY easier to replace them with the bed off vs just tilting it a little.

davester Senior Enthusiast

davester

Posted
Posted

GM should have replacement lines for it relatively cheap (I got a set from them for $115cdn for my '04 Sierra 3500 Cab&Chassis).

 

Seriously, you want to do it before it fails. I did mine, and also replaced all the rubber lines with SS braided lines.

 

Unfortunately, I picked the wrong brand for the SS braided lines, which were Russell. The ends weren't bent correctly, they were missing some braces to prevent rubbing, included cheap aluminum washers instead of copper ones, and the lengths were slightly off. In particular, one of the rear ones was a little too long, and it wound up rubbing through against the tire. And when the line failed, the brake pedal hit the floor and the brakes in general were very weak. I was lucky I was just pulling out of my garage instead of going full speed with a trailer coming to a stop light.

jodyjody New Member

jodyjody

Posted
Posted

91 chevy guy said he paid a guy to change clucth presure plate pilot bearing throw out baering,no clucth,so I bought the 91 for 200 thought just get the air out of lines didn't work so pulled tranny to look see if he had change all. So what I found was the clutch presure plate were brand new,but the dumb ass only put half thebolts bk in the presureplate,so I went got all new bolt +washer put it all bk togeter, still clutch no work and I have no air in lines. Can you tell me wat my next step would.91 chevy s10 4.3 4x4 thanx jodyjody

 

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Raptordude Enthusiast

Raptordude

Posted
Posted

91 chevy guy said he paid a guy to change clucth presure plate pilot bearing throw out baering,no clucth,so I bought the 91 for 200 thought just get the air out of lines didn't work so pulled tranny to look see if he had change all. So what I found was the clutch presure plate were brand new,but the dumb ass only put half thebolts bk in the presureplate,so I went got all new bolt +washer put it all bk togeter, still clutch no work and I have no air in lines. Can you tell me wat my next step would.91 chevy s10 4.3 4x4 thanx jodyjody

 

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I think you're on the wrong thread

 

 

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davester Senior Enthusiast

davester

Posted
Posted

I'm gonna get the stainless kit by Dorman. It's $116 I believe

 

 

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I have not personally bought them, but another guy on dieselplace.com did, and he had a bunch of problems with them (leaking connections mainly, poorly done double-flares). Dorman has only been making them for maybe a year and a half or so. Maybe he got a bad set, maybe there's a reason why they are so cheap...

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