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Posted

Need your help, my battery wont hold a charge. I have ran a load test and it shows a week battery also wont charge over 11.5 volts. I will take it to Walmart tomorrow to have them test it and replace if need. I haven't driving the truck much in the last year. I try starting it once ever 3 weeks. I connected a meter to test for a battery drain and it show 1.16 milliamps then drops to .34. What's the normal drain for a 07 chevy crew cab?

Posted

First off, personally I wouldn't take it to Walmart. Not saying that it's no different than going to Autozone to test it, I just for some reason can't trust anybody at Walmart in the shop part. I also wouldn't buy a battery form Walmart either, just keep hearing the batteries don't tend to last like they should. Maybe it's different for some, just from what I hear and have seen. But, if you said the load test showed it was weak and can't hold charge then sounds like you just need a new battery. Letting the vehicle sit like that will shorten the battery life among other things.

 

So I would just go to Autozone and have them test it. If you do need a new one then the Duralast batteries are good. At least for me they've always been good for me. I know the platinum one is a hybrid between a regular battery and an Optima.

  • Like 1
Posted

After replacing the battery, buy a quality float charger like a Battery tender model and keep it connected when not driving

  • Like 2
Posted

Sounds like a bad battery to me.

 

For what its worth I have a car that sits for extended periods of time with a ac delco battery from 2007.

 

My buddy has a AC Delco Battery from 2008.

 

Both cars fire right up.

 

I normally use Rural King Batteries because I buy a few a year and they are dirt cheap.

 

You will only find two manufactures of Batteries in the US Exide and Johnson Controls So I feel like buying either is a 50 50 crap shoot. lol

  • 7 years later...
Posted (edited)

Well after many years of haven a battery tender it won't crank now. I ohmed pin 6 and pin 14 and have 60 ohms. I thought my bcm was shot but now im not sure. All fuses and relays are good under the hood. Not sure where to look next.

silverado.docx

Edited by jaystone10
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Well, if anybody was wondering what the inside of the fuse box looks like here it is. Cleaned it up and installed new fuses and it still won't start so I guess I'm off to buy another fuse box and maybe a bcm.

20230915_213202.thumb.jpg.5a6162bfd1205c2ad4280bde1cdd7bc4.jpg20230915_212221.thumb.jpg.04a0c0c639d51ea09bab4b6f10dfae89.jpg20230915_211637.thumb.jpg.fef7cd656c7cd692579c2284814be274.jpg20230915_220510.thumb.jpg.a612f60a580ba52261f12cbd877a732f.jpg20230915_220504.thumb.jpg.d9c20258bbfdacf0ab79f6cee392e528.jpg20230915_220410.thumb.jpg.cd7f306a0fea1cbe0e3c9c91556068d1.jpg20230915_220402.thumb.jpg.5525b69c3234744d8083d6772046b4f3.jpg
 
  • 5 months later...
Posted
On 9/7/2023 at 9:55 AM, jaystone10 said:

Well after many years of haven a battery tender it won't crank now. I ohmed pin 6 and pin 14 and have 60 ohms. I thought my bcm was shot but now im not sure. All fuses and relays are good under the hood. Not sure where to look next.

silverado.docx 4.43 MB · 17 downloads

 

I know this is an old post but just keep in mind that any battery will only last between 1-5 years at most. If it last longer, you're just asking for it to straight up fail out of nowhere on you.

 

I would recommend using something like AAA (if that's something your area offers) to get a battery as it's around the going rate, has a 3 year warranty, and they come out to wherever you are located to test/replace it.

 

Past this, I hope replacing the BCM or Fuse Block fixed your issue. I would've done more testing myself like jumping the battery directly to the starter to make sure the battery and wiring/etc is okay, to rule out those items - but that's just me lol

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