Jump to content

Cab Marker Lights

cbgrant74
 Share

Recommended Posts

cbgrant74 Enthusiast

cbgrant74

Posted
Posted

I am planning to install cab marker lights on my 2015 Silverado 1500. (Why? Because I think it looks cool.) I have the GM lights and wiring harness, I know how to locate the lights in the right position on the roof, and I know how I’m going to make the required square holes.

 

What I need is a little bit of information about how the clips on the bottom of the lights engage the underside of the roof. Below are a couple of photos of a mockup I made, showing the bottom of a light installed through a square hole in a piece of sheet metal. As you can see, there is a steel clip with four legs, one at each corner of the hole. Tightening the bolt in the center of the clip pulls it towards the body of the light, pressing the legs against the underside of the roof.

 

Light%201_zps2zepmk2p.jpg

 

Light%202_zpsiniflass.jpg

 

Are the clips tightened until the legs are “just snug” against the bottom of the roof, as in the photos? Or, are they tightened all the way down, splaying the legs out away from the hole? Neither of these seem very secure. Alternatively, is there some sort of retainer that I don’t have that keeps the legs from splaying out as the clip is tightened?

 

What would be most helpful is a photo of the bottom of a factory-installed light (why I’m posting this in the 2500/3500 forum).

 

Thanks in advance.

  • 1 year later...
STKR Enthusiast

STKR

Posted
Posted

A little late, but I just read in another thread that you tighten them until the roof light housing is snug against the exterior roof.  It would also help to add a little silicone as a backup to the foam gasket.  I will be adding some blue Loctite to the clamp bolts as well.

 

Question:  You said you know how to locate the holes.  Can you share the information you have?

 

Thanks,

Jim

CuzznVinny Enthusiast

CuzznVinny

Posted
Posted

mine came with loctite already on the bolt. The square hole needs to be a perfect 3/4" square. push it thru and the black plastic has tabs that will catch and semi hold it down. Tighten the bolt all the way down and the metal clip will spread and pull it tight. the lights have a double gasket and should not leak, I added 100% silicone around the perimeter of the hole just to be safe.

Catman HD Enthusiast

Catman HD

Posted
Posted

I seen somewhere on this forum that a guy had a die that cut perfect holes. He was selling for like 80.00 says he bought cut his holes and no longer needed. Dye looked like you center drill hole then dye tightens and makes 3/4" square hole. He says he paid 120.00 I think... Just an fyi for help.

2014sierra-rich Enthusiast

2014sierra-rich

Posted
Posted

Anyone have pictures of the job done? Were you going with the yellow marker lights or I have seen white led cab lights? Thanks


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • 1 year later...
Linecapt Enthusiast

Linecapt

Posted
Posted

Finally got it done, courtesy of Truck Toyz Unlimited in Rocky Hill, CT.

 

c48f45dc-d87e-4f66-a494-38410534c7e0.PNG

  • 1 year later...
Chebu70 New Member

Chebu70

Posted
Posted

Hey folks, thanks for the write-up!  I have found myself in the same situation with a 2020 HD that I didn’t realize could possibly come without the roof market lights.  Side note, I had a 2000 for 19 years that had a rusted shift linkage clip and when I thought it was in park, it was actually in reverse, and rolled into the neighbors house...  never thought I would buy a new truck.  But here we are.  
 

Fortunately, it appears that the 2020 comes with the main harness already installed and I just need to run the roof harness and cut the holes in the roof... “just” cutting holes in a brand new truck. 
 

Is the 3/4” square punch still floating around?  

  • 3 weeks later...
94yj Enthusiast

94yj

Posted
Posted
On 8/7/2020 at 6:28 AM, Chebu70 said:

Hey folks, thanks for the write-up!  I have found myself in the same situation with a 2020 HD that I didn’t realize could possibly come without the roof market lights.  Side note, I had a 2000 for 19 years that had a rusted shift linkage clip and when I thought it was in park, it was actually in reverse, and rolled into the neighbors house...  never thought I would buy a new truck.  But here we are.  
 

Fortunately, it appears that the 2020 comes with the main harness already installed and I just need to run the roof harness and cut the holes in the roof... “just” cutting holes in a brand new truck. 
 

Is the 3/4” square punch still floating around?  

i just had a shop do mine and i have the 3/4 square punch i now do not need if you like message me thanks

Chebu70 New Member

Chebu70

Posted
Posted
18 minutes ago, 94yj said:

i just had a shop do mine and i have the 3/4 square punch i now do not need if you like message me thanks

Thanks Bill!  I'll send you a pm now.  Appreciate it.  What year did you punch out?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • contrabombarde
      2010 Avalanche 5.3 not running correctly after engine swap.

      By contrabombarde · Posted

      Apologies in advance, this is a long post, there's a lot to explain.   A friend had a 2010 Avalanche with a 5.3 (LMG) that blew the head gaskets (amount other problems). He gave me a donor motor out of a 2007 suburban (LC9). I got it all installed, and everything hooked up. Went to go start it, and it stumbled a bit at first and died a couple times, but after trying a few times it sounded like it was running very well. Went out to go get some coolant, and came back the next day.    Upon trying to start it, the truck will crank and fire normally and the RPMs will raise to around 1,200 or 1,500, sounding great, and then the RPMs will decrease and it will just die. Repeat that a dozen or two dozen times, and eventually it will fire and idle beautifully. As soon as you touch the throttle, it will start misfiring and sound like absolute trash. When you let off the throttle it will come down and hunt around shaking and misfiring like crazy. A message will come up on the dash saying reduced engine power.    It is throwing codes for a map sensor circuit voltage High, as well as MAF sensor low frequency. With key on engine off, the map sensor reads about 4.8 volts on the vout pin, which the PCM interprets as about 17.8 PSI, contrasted to the barometer which my scan tool tells me reads about 13.5 PSI. However, once the engine starts and is idling this reading drops to about 5-6 PSI at a stable idle, and varies significantly when the engine is misfiring/ hunting like I said before. I should note that I used the intake and MAP sensor from the LC9 engine. I changed the connector on the 2010 harness to The 2007 connector. The pinouts for the sensors were printed right on the top, and I triple-checked that I put the correct wire into the correct place.   On the other hand, the MAF sensor reads consistently 0.0 g/s regardless of State. I have pulled my hair out trying to figure out this last detail. I have tried three different sensors, (all of which should be good, one of which was new), I have verified all the wiring from the sensor going back to the PCM, and have verified that the readings at the PCM are the same readings as at the sensor itself. The intake air temperature sensor is also functioning as normal. I verified all the voltages and grounds etc, and everything is as it should be. I don't have an oscilloscope to verify, but I probed with my multimeter (Klein mm720) on frequency Mode, and it reads that on initial cranking, the maf is producing between 3000 and 7000 HZ, and as soon as the engine fires that falls off to below, 1000, and if the engine continues to run, it will produce somewhat erratic readings between 5 and 100-200 HZ. It does increase notably when the engine is revved despite the misfirings. As I said before, I have verified all of the wires going to the PCM, and I have tried multiple known good sensors. I've tested all the pins and voltages from the sensor and verified them against the manual that they are what they should be. I tested all the wiring for both ohms and voltage drop, and everything tested fine. Like I said I tested at the sensor as well as right at the PCM, everything checked out.   The only other thing of note at least I think is the fact that the engine originally in the truck had VVT, but the engine I put in, the lc9, does not have VVT. I modified the cam sensor plug to work. I reference the wiring diagrams and double-checked that I modified the harness correctly to adapt it. There is obviously a code for the VVT solenoid, but I don't think that's the cause of my problems, and this friend will probably have the PCM sent off to tune out the codes at some point.   I'm writing this for my bed so I don't recall the exact codes, but I'll update the post tomorrow morning with the exact codes. And ideas or feedback much appreciated. 
    • Atlas
      Tire psi

      By Atlas · Posted

      It's possible the two trucks are using different body control modules which is why yours works and the OP's doesn't.   So much in these newer vehicles depends on model/trim configurations, production date. They don't all use the same modules like back in the day.
    • Chuck FB
      Tire psi

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I forgot to answer the question as per what market mine is set to and yes I finally found that area on mine and yes its also set to America.   So here's something I realized as I wasn't looking at that part in the Sierra section until now, your right that what I see here as choice 3 under Sierra which says 07/2023-06/2026 ( 433 MHz 13542523 ) it has no choice 5 for tire pressure selection. Where as it does under the Chev choice. However I kept going down the list within the Sierra and I am really wondering if choice 9 will work for your truck as it has the same model number and hertz sensor as my truck. I would say try that choice first, if that doesn't work then jump over to the Chev section and again choose that same model and hertz choice as for some reason the Chev section gives the choice 5 of tire type/pressure selection for going back a number of years. Could very well be an Autel thing that they just didn't get the updates all done properly under Sierra but anyway first try that selection 9 I suggested under Sierra and then go from there. 
    • B07
      Anyone have a spare?

      By B07 · Posted

      Looking for this piece that holds the hose clamp in place. I have the hose clamp just not that other piece. Dealers and wrecking yards in my area will not sell just that piece. They want you to buy the whole air tube $100 +/- to get that $5 part.  that piece isn't molded to the air tube as I looked at my friends truck. It's held on by a screw and nut. I'm trying to put the OEM parts on the truck as the previous owner butchered things up installing an aftermarket CAI. It really looked homemade. 🤣 Thanks
    • Chuck FB
      Tire psi

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      Ok I missed that part that yours is a GM. The strange part is that the choice for year ranges and within the year of 2026 is different on the Sierra then on the Chev for some reason as I am looking at my tool at the Sierra choices. Now I am guessing you see as to your sensor part number as it may be different on your truck for some reason and a call to GM should get you the part model number of the sensors you should have as well as which MHz your sensors are. I know mine are the ones as per what I listed but there are other choices in the Autel and got me wondering if by some chance they put different ones in your truck. Having said that, did you try using each of the choices starting from No 1 and going on down the list, not sure if that would mean shutting off the engine each time and resetting the tool and going at it again each time. Also I thought of something else which may sound retarded but if there was some stupid chance that the chev choice would work. The reason I say that is that the Sierra is showing a range up to 06/2026 for the various choices of sensors it could be where as the Chev has one choice that has that 12/2026. By the way it is possible to not run the truck and you may know that as per not pressing the brake but pressing and holding the start button for a few seconds and it lights up the dash ( its called service mode ) but that sucks battery power and if it were me doing it that way I would be throwing on a decent sized battery charger before doing it that way as killing your battery won't make you happy at me at all !.    Like I say, just a thought to try the Chev choices if you have already exhausted the Sierra choices but first it would be nice to know for sure what exact sensor model and hertz your truck uses as I assume only those choices that mention the sensor would work unless a choice that does not mention the sensor model would somehow work. Its frustrating when one is trying to use tools like this without the experience of the tool and the vehicle, as I am sure dealer techs themselves struggle with it when starting out or a new model year comes along that is slightly different. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...