Service Stablitrak P0011 Been fighting for years and losing!!

dirtymafia · November 23, 2016

Here is the whole story as I can remember it. 2007 Suburban 6.0 LTZ 4x4

Started getting the occasional/random Service Sablitrak message at about 140,000 miles. I started trouble shooting ( or part replacing ) shortly afterwords. I soon figured this job was above my skill level and I just didn't have the time to work on it. After all the confusion on the internet about the problem I was having I took it to the Dealership instead of my local mechanic thinking they could handle this best. In the mean time I did start noticing I was have lower then normal oil pressure.

So off to the Dealership where I spent lots of money, and was told my problem was fixed several times only to turn around and head back to them and tell them it is still having the issue. At this point it would take about 10 miles to show up. After the third time of me returning it to them and them keeping it a week, the told me I needed a new engine. My Jaw dropped.

I called my friend mechanic and talked to him about it and he asked if he could take a look at it. I let him know that the Cam sensor, cam actuator (VVT Sensor?), and magnet had been replaced at the dealership. After looking at it he wanted to change the oil pump. And just like that my problems were solved, or so I thought. The problem started to show its ugly head a few weeks later but not near as often. That was 2 years ago. In that time I have noticed doesn't seem to come on for a long time after a new oil change. Probably takes 500 miles for it to show up. When it does start showing up it really only comes on after driving for 20 or so miles on the highway and then start driving around town. It might have something to do with being good and warmed up before it starts to come around. It rarely comes on at highway speeds only when I start getting over 2000 miles on the oil change. It seems very oil related. I have tried different brands of oil. None seem to make a difference. My normal oil is Mobil1 5w-30. It does not always throw a CEL just the service stablitrak and traction control. Then thats when the Hard shifting starts. After the Stablitrak comes on it does clear in a few miles on its own. I recently put another new cam position sensor on and I pulled the Cam actuator out and cleaned it. Nothing has sense helped other real short oil changes seem to help.

I have thought about deleting the VVT , but not sure that would even help.

So any suggestions I am open to all.

newdude · November 23, 2016

So there is the manget, the actuator, and the solenoid (the bolt holding the actuator on). Have all 3 been replaced?

Keep in mind as well, the solenoid is a 1 time use item (any time it is removed it must be replaced) as it is a torque to yield fastener on the end of it where it threads into the cam.

dirtymafia · November 23, 2016

Thank you for the reply. Maybe I will go ahead and try another solenoid, since I pulled this one and and cleaned it and just stuck it back in a few weeks ago. Should the Magnet be changed with it? or does it matter? If I change the solenoid do I have to do some sort of relearn on the system?

dirtymafia · November 23, 2016

also is there a specific brand I should get?

newdude · November 23, 2016

GM. I would steer clear from the aftermarket all together for engine components. Has the actual cam actuator been replaced at all? Or just the solenoid and the magnet?

Edited November 23, 2016 by 15HDriver

dirtymafia · November 23, 2016

I guess I am a little confused on what I am talking about, I guess I thought the solenoid and the actuator were the same thing. I will have to look at my paper work and see what all was replaced when I took it to the Dealership.

Is the camshaft actuator you speak of also maybe called a cam Phaser?

Edited November 23, 2016 by dirtymafia

Coby7 · November 23, 2016

Yeah this thread has me puzzled too, As far as I know there's only one actuator on a V8 unless it's an overhead cam. And GM calls it an ACTUATOR, CAMSHAFT POSITION other manufacturers call them cam phasers. Some people call it a solenoid which it isn't on a push rod V8. It is on an ecotec Cobalt though.

Here is a picture of an actuator of a 6.0l V8 GM# 12602699 which the OP is referring too. What he calls the magnet, which it isn't, is that odd looking reluctor ring opposite the gear. That's where the cam phase sensor rides close to.

I drew a little picture showing what the cam phase sensor would see depending on speed, the faster the engine turns the closer together the pulses get. Now this is just a drawing to explain, not exactly what the signal looks like.

Edited November 23, 2016 by Coby7

dirtymafia · November 23, 2016

Either way I need to check out my receipt to see what really going on, as it has been a couple of years now. Thanks for the help. I will update when I find receipts.

dirtymafia · November 25, 2016

GM. I would steer clear from the aftermarket all together for engine components. Has the actual cam actuator been replaced at all? Or just the solenoid and the magnet?

Found my receipt

So yes, the actuator has been replaced, along with the Magnet and solenoid.

Part#s:12585994;12653140;12588151

Coby7 · November 25, 2016

Well these are all good parts for your Suburban, it looks like they didn't know what had failed and changed everything related to the P0011. Don't when mechanics are going to learn that the code is just a clue, but they are restricted for time allowed to work on vehicles to find the real problem so they change parts and hope for the best.

GM Part No.: 12585994

ACTUATOR, Engine Camshaft

This part fits the following vehicle options:

Fitting Vehicle Options: CK2(LY6,MT1)

GM Part No.: 12653140

MAGNET

This part fits the following vehicle options:

Fitting Vehicle Options: CK2,3(LY6)

GM Part No.: 12588151

VALVE, Engine Camshaft

This part fits the following vehicle options:

Fitting Vehicle Options: CK2,3(LY6)

Edited November 25, 2016 by Coby7

Coby7 · November 25, 2016

Since it's a high mileage engine, have you tried going up a grade to 10W-30 but staying with the synthetic if you've been using synthetic?

dirtymafia · November 25, 2016

Since it's a high mileage engine, have you tried going up a grade to 10W-30 but staying with the synthetic if you've been using synthetic?

I have considered going to different oil. Not sure if thats what I want to do or not.

Coby7 · November 25, 2016

Can't hurt trying

dirtymafia · November 29, 2016

So I did change the oil this weekend, and for whatever reason I tried Castol 5w30 with titanium. We have took a trip in it this weekend and have over 500 miles on it with not issues.... really not sure why.

bgbdwlf2500 · November 30, 2016

My truck is a 2010 that I bought with 103k on it. I changed the plugs and wires and had one plug wire where it would hit the steering linkage under the hood and it would pop that wire off. When that happened I got the service stabilitrak message too until I put it back on. Could it be ignition related? Maybe need new plugs/wires/coil packs? I'm with you in that I don't understand why oil would have anything to do with it.