Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

UPR Dual Valve Catch Can Kits with CSS now available for all aftermarket cold air intakes.



The upgraded kit features 36" of UPR braided Hose and UPR Billet Hose End Clamps.



Don't Miss UPR's limited time discount offer and get upgraded to the UPR Pro-Series™ Check Valves


at no extra cost. Along with a great deal on the entire UPR Catch Can System.



Be sure to PM me and I'll get you set right up.



Have a great day, Joe


Posted (edited)

I just got the PM this morning. Sorry for the late response.

 

There is a normal amount of rock with the 1.390" UPR Plug n Play filler neck fitting due to the valve cover design. I just want to be sure no one received the smaller

earlier GM unit see details below.

 

If you guys can take a quick measurement on the bottom of the UPR Plug n Play filler neck fitting and let me know what the size is to make sure you have the correct fitting.

 

The diameter should be 1.390" for the 14+ trucks. If you have the 1.320" that is for the earlier GM I will get it corrected right away.

 

Thank you, Joe

Hi Joe,

 

So I got the newer plug n play filler neck fitting for my '16 and installed it. But the fitting is really loose. And can you take a look at my videos and see if this is normal, because when my oil cap is on, there is no to little movement in any direction.

 

One finger test

 

 

Two finger test

 

Edited by AllTerrainX
Posted

Hi Joe,

So I got the newer plug n play filler neck fitting for my '16 and installed it. But the fitting is really loose. And can you take a look at my videos and see if this is normal, because when my oil cap is on, there is no to little movement in any direction.

One finger test

Two finger test

Mine doesn't do that. All my play comes from the flimsy plastic fill neck. Did you tighten with a wrench? I had to use a wrench on mine and it had almost a "click" when fully seated. Definitely a positive feel when fully tightenend. Also I believe Joe mentioned it earlier but I think the tracks are two different sizes to fit the tabs inside the neck. Maybe it's on backwards? Mine only fit one way though, just throwing out ideas.

Posted (edited)

Mine doesn't do that. All my play comes from the flimsy plastic fill neck. Did you tighten with a wrench? I had to use a wrench on mine and it had almost a "click" when fully seated. Definitely a positive feel when fully tightenend. Also I believe Joe mentioned it earlier but I think the tracks are two different sizes to fit the tabs inside the neck. Maybe it's on backwards? Mine only fit one way though, just throwing out ideas.

Mine would only go in one way too. Turned it until it slid into the hole and I had to use a wrench on it to turn it, couldnt do it by hand. Turned it til it stopped, didnt feel a "click", maybe I need to turn it a little harder? I didnt want to break anything.

Edited by AllTerrainX
Posted

Mine would only go in one way too. Turned it until it slid into the hole and I had to use a wrench on it to turn it, couldnt do it by hand. Turned it til it stopped, didnt feel a "click", maybe I need to turn it a little harder? I didnt want to break anything.

A click isn't the right way to describe it I guess. All I know is I was sure it was fully seated and turned until I felt it stop and flex the fill tube a bit. I don't think you can break anything gently tightening until you are sure it's seated. Maybe yours has a smaller o-ring? We will have to see what Joe says about the videos.

  • Like 1
Posted

Not to jack your thread but got mine installed :) Did you do anything for the drain? Added anything to it?

http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/192702-allterrainx-2016-gmc-sierra-slt-all-terrain-x/?p=1935504

Black kit looks great! I haven't done anything for a drain yet. I've emptied it a few times now since installing and just use a water bottle cut in half. Last time I actually just folded the water bottle over and stuffed it down under the can and put the lid back on when I was done draining. Haven't felt a big need to add something to the drain yet but a piece of hose might make positioning the bottle easier. Would just need a hose barb for the valve, 1/4" npt if I remember correctly, and a piece of rubber hose.

Posted

Hi Joe,

 

So I got the newer plug n play filler neck fitting for my '16 and installed it. But the fitting is really loose. And can you take a look at my videos and see if this is normal, because when my oil cap is on, there is no to little movement in any direction.

 

One finger test

 

 

Two finger test

 

 

The newer UPR Plug n Play™ Filler Neck has that movement because there is not top for it to secure against like the oil cap and is normal. The O-ring allows for the slight movement and if it's made too tight

the interference can damage the factory locator tabs in the oil fill neck.

 

PM me for any questions.

 

Joe

Posted

Anyone have pictures of the catch can install with either a CAI or MIT?

Posted

Anyone with a cold air intake can post their pictures up. I will post pictures of the all the parts with descriptions that the UPR GM Plug n Play™ Catch Can System with CSS for Cold Air Intake Equipped GM Trucks. I will get them posted Monday and answer any questions anyone has. Have a Great Weekend.

 

Thank you, Joe

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,846
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Zinister101
    Newest Member
    Zinister101
    Joined
  • Who's Online   5 Members, 1 Anonymous, 536 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I bought belts and pulleys for my '20 L5P at Rock Auto a couple years ago. I have used them for many years, and almost always save significant money, especially when I buy maintenance stuff ahead of time.   They carry many OEM parts, which is all I use unless an aftermarket is shown to be same/superior, or if it is an insignificant part or unavailable OEM part anywhere else. RA is usually lower priced, often by a bunch, but parts are sometimes unavailable or out of stock, and I do shop around and sometimes find better prices at other sites.   Be aware that you pay shipping, and if you buy multiple items and they are coming from different warehouses, the shipping can kill the advantage. Planning ahead is best if possible.   If you have a transmission service in the near future, check out their OEM (AC Delco ULV) fluid, usually MUCH less than anywhere else.
    • New member here, very long time occasional guest. Saw this thread, thought it would be a good time to contribute someting. It is only my experience and not a claim that everyone will have the same.   I bought my '20 3500 L5P new and have put 99.9% (literally) of it's current ~400k miles on it myself, with over 50% of that towing loads between 4k to 15k, and to me this truck has been nothing short of amazing. For the first 235k I had zero issues, and from there until 321k I replaced a NOx sensor, two failing glow plugs, and three of the notorious injector connectors. I believe this truck is in part, a testament to good luck, but also good care and following a decent maintenance schedule (I also keep meticulous records.) As a result, it looks as good as a well cared for 70k rig, up and down, inside and out.   At some point before that 321k mile mark I began to get a little spooked about the 10L1000, especially the valve body. Word of mouth about potential issues prompted me to jump on the net to sift through all the noise and determine what all the fuss was about. I routinely take long trips, coast-to-coast and points in between, so roadside breakdowns can be '...a thousand miles from nowhere' and a bit of a challenge, and though I had no issues, my guard was up and activated.   And then I stumbled across a chance to salvage some parts off a new 2025 that had been wrecked in transport. I grabbed a few wear items (alternator, pulleys, etc.) and on a whim asked what the ten speeder would cost me. It was cheap...really cheap. I knew some changes had been made in the '24+ version 10L and were supposedly not compatible, but I called service/parts at my local Chevy dealer and asked why and they didn't know. A call to a well known aftermarket transmission outfit revealed it was very likely it would be fine, but to them not 100% sure.   Because it was cheap (really cheap) and I was spooked, I took the chance. Had it installed by a local shop and it worked like a champ, shifted just like the original. At it's first service at 37k, I had the shop put in a Next Gen valve body kit, which after some initial hiccups and rough shifts, smoothed out though with somewhat firmer shifting.   All that said, I have a very serious concern about my newer transmission as just two weeks ago it suddenly began to exhibit a strong reluctance to engage forward or reverse. It was a bit past due anyway so I took it in for service. The reason it was sticking was due to 'glitter' in the fluid clogging the filter...not good folks, often indicates a converter giving out. We ended up going ahead with the new filter and fluid, first to see if it would move and shift, and then if so buy me a little time. It did, and I've driven it over a thousand miles and it is shifting smooth, no noises or slipping. Regardless, it looks like a third gearbox is in my future so I can resume taking long trips with some confidence. In the very short term, my curiosity will have me examining the fluid to check how much glitter has reappeared.   An earlier poster had alleged, in the context of 10L100 failures, that it is another example of how we seasoned citizens somehow descend into hysteria, lose control of our senses, and react irrationally after brief encounters with the idiocy of the internet infosphere. Let me say (and I have used and abused said internet since it's infancy) there is no segment of the populace that has a corner on over-reaction to digital garbage. Just as my offering of experience in this arena is purely anecdotal and should not be considered gospel or all-encompassing, I believe it is still worthwhile information to consider, along with other relevant anecdotal experiences about things like complex transmissions, especially when balanced with other sources.   So to answer the original question, yes I got high miles out of my first 10L, trouble free for 321,000. Now I really wonder how much longer it would have went. Did I 'overreact' to the internet ghouls by replacing a 'good' one with a 'bad' one? Maybe. Who knows, the thing might have taken a puke a 100 miles later. So I'll just fix it again, then move on and start thinking about all the other stuff that will eventually wear out. It still has the original brakes (they're at ~60%), original injectors/pump, turbo, water pump, etc....pretty much original everything. Knock on wood.
    • At peak temperature.  They get to cool down and warm up more, especially those with the external cooler.  I have three GMT900s and one of them has over 225K on its original transmission.  Fluid gets changed about every 36K miles, all of it.     It's not the bean counters, it was the government.  They had to meet CAFE standards and other government requirements.   To get around that, we tune them and modify them to our liking.
    • Our customers' safety isn't something we take lightly. To ensure you get the proper assistance for your truck's repairs, please fill out the form at https://s.chevy.com/support-request with all pertinent details including your username.
    • We appreciate you sharing your experience with your truck. To ensure we get you the proper assistance, please fill out the form at https://s.chevy.com/support-request with all pertinent details including your username.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...