Jump to content

GMC oil change Qs


Recommended Posts

Posted

I used all 4 of my " free" oil changes before I reached 15,000 miles on my 2014 Z71. Hell it just clicked over 17,000 miles this morning. But now I'm going to switch over to full synthetic because I only partly read a post someone posted a day or so ago promising results really advising to do so with test results proving that regular oil is hell on leaving carbon buildup on the back of the valves.

And not to hijack post but .... I have had my AFM turned off for about the last 12/13,000 miles and have not installed a catch can. So... my question is do I need to do a valve cleaning treatment and if so what product is best and I will probably have the dealer do it or is that "no-no" and should I find someone more trustworthy? Thanks in advance.

 

Scott

Posted

I'm an old dude now so as long as it under warranty it goes to the dealer. My toys have synthetic so I go extended on those. I've done amsoil stuff and all the testing that goes with it. The dealers generally don't have a clue on extended except when I had my trailblazer ss then they let that go semi extended on Mobil 1. There's really nothing really all that exciting about changing your own oil unless it's a hassle going to the dealer.

Posted

 

 

It is relative. If it is convenient to do so, let the dealer do the 2 free changes. Some of us, it costs us more to get the "free" oil changes than doing them ourselves. In my case, just one of the "free" oil changes actually costs me well over $600. Dealerships around me have the equivalent of bankers hours, so I would have to shut down my business for a morning or afternoon to go get the free oil change. And add to that it is almost an hour... one way... to get to the dealer. But if it is easy to fit in the "free" oil change, then go get it. After all, it isn't "free". You paid for it when you bought the vehicle.

X2 DIY if you can...at $40 for 8qts Mobil 1 (5 qt. for $25 Walmart jugs) and $6 for a PF63 you save less than $50 by going to the dealer. Take solace knowing that money is really not for the oil change but for immediate service when you want with no appointment and the piece of mind knowing what is and how much is in the crankcase, that the filter and plug are tightened properly and the threads on the aluminum oil pan haven't been buggered by an air wrench.

Posted

I avoid the latter by using Fumoto drain valves on all my vehicles and equipment. No risk of messing up threads, losing a washer, or dropping the plug in the oil pan.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,866
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Greg3160
    Newest Member
    Greg3160
    Joined
  • Who's Online   3 Members, 0 Anonymous, 363 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Late reply, but yes—it works on the SLT trim. Compatibility comes down to the plastic shroud shape behind your mirror, not the trim badge itself. On the SLT with auto-dimming, it uses a plug-and-play Y-harness off the mirror/rain sensor power, so no need to run wires down to the OBD port. If anyone's ever unsure about fitment, just drop a photo of your mirror housing and we can double-check it.   Appreciate the detailed feedback on the install! On the windshield glare—we actually took feedback like yours and developed a dedicated CPL (polarizer) filter to cut down dash reflections on sunny days. If you're still running the cam, shoot me a DM. I'd be happy to send a CPL filter over for you to test out—no charge. 
    • There are no stickers in your glovebox?
    • Look at the numbers on the stickers in the door jam...
    • Yes, every time the developer updates his code, you must recompile. I will private message you with the latest because it changes pretty much with every version.
    • After I wrote that reply I went for a ride. 85 F out. So trans started at 85 F and it shifted the same as it did an hour latter at 168 F. I've never actually recorded the to cold to shift point but it is under 32 F before they start hanging on to a lower gear or leaving the converter unlocked. Both intended to heat fluid.    Yes, brake or bake. Absolutely.      Your welcome. True research ended decades ago. Field trials are still in play.    There is a thing called oxidation onset temperature. This is the heat related oxidation not the O2 exposure kind. For mineral oil that starts at 140 F. So what happens after 140 F? Each 20 F cuts fluid life in half! Does using a Full Synthetic improve that? Yes! By how much? Depends on the base oil type and a few other factors. But enough to notice. Some esters are even higher. There are even synergies between types the will raise it higher than any one component is alone.    Then there is "Hindered" oils. Antioxidant additives. Hindered Polyol Esters can sit at 500 F for years in a turbine.   When a blender brags his oil will 'take 500 F" in service he doesn't specify for how long. Water will dance on a 500 F hot plate for several seconds. @newdude put up a chart showing the relationship between fluid temperature and it's life in an automatic transmission. Here's a version of that chart for Group III based oils. These temperatures are those in the pan as observed as 'normal'. that is you drive as you do for as long as you do under what load you ask of it and whatever that temperature is this graph applies to. Flash temperatures of a few minutes isn't what his means.    Note that fluids held at a constant 240 F have a service life of only 20K miles. 220 F explains the factory exchange limit, eh? My equipment I keep under 180 F and I'm good if the cooler will hold it as low as 140 F. But that's me.   
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...