Jump to content

2014 sierra 5.3 smells like propane

Bstith03

By Bstith03
in Troubleshooting & Recalls

 Share

Recommended Posts

Jliebrecht New Member

Jliebrecht

Posted
Posted

Has anyone else had this issue, I have had the same thing happen to my 2014 gmc Slt 1500, was pulling horse trailer when first noticed and now it’s happens for a little bit every time I drive it.

  • 2 years later...
Red_5 Enthusiast

Red_5

Posted
Posted

I have the same issue now too. While towing our travel trailer recently we started smelling propane when we stopped. With propane tanks on the trailer we were pretty freaked out. It’s still doing it with the trailer disconnected. Usually get the smell when we park after driving in the car. Smell outside the truck seems to be the strongest in the driver side wheel well. We have a ‘15 Sierra SLT 6.2 4x4 Max Tow if any of that matters. We still have a powertrain warranty so when we get home I’ll take it in and see what they have to say. I found another link the other day talking about a TSB on it.

  • 2 weeks later...
Red_5 Enthusiast

Red_5

Posted
Posted

Anyone know how you locate the TSB for this problem? I've seen in other threads there's a TSB but not sure how you locate it to share with the dealership. I'm hoping to take my truck in soon. Thanks.

  • Like 1
  • 3 years later...
Dave Chiek New Member

Dave Chiek

Posted
Posted

I have a 2017 Silverado LTZ that started having a propane smell especially inside the cab after a friend used the truck to pull a boat home. Anyone have any ideas what it might be?

  • 10 months later...
FMyrick New Member

FMyrick

Posted
Posted
On 5/31/2018 at 11:55 AM, cruser7 said:

I found my propane smell, and fixed it. Coming from the front differential vent. I changed the fluid, rerouted the vent line to the rear of the vehicle up by the gas cap door and installed a inline gas fliter. Smell has disappear. Sound crazy, but its gone thank god.

I have this same smell in my 2015 Chevy Silverado. I've had guys rip me off changing my fuel injectors, performing a tune up, and changing my cabin filter.. Yet i still smell it.. it's feint when my heat is off but really strong when my heat is on or when i step out the car after driving a while. 

superdave160 Enthusiast

superdave160

Posted
Posted

I didn't see it mentioned earlier in this thread, but it could be the cats overheating.  Take a code reader with live data display and see what the cat temps are when you smell the propane smell.  The smell could be cause by heating of the adhesives and/or dyes in the carpet.

BIGDOGx Senior Enthusiast

BIGDOGx

Posted
Posted
14 hours ago, superdave160 said:

I didn't see it mentioned earlier in this thread, but it could be the cats overheating.  Take a code reader with live data display and see what the cat temps are when you smell the propane smell.  The smell could be cause by heating of the adhesives and/or dyes in the carpet.

The problem was quoted in the post above with it being a Front differential vent. Even before reading this post to me the only substance that could smell a tad like propane gas is gear oil imo, as the stuff is rank smelling, especially older dirty gear oil.

superdave160 Enthusiast

superdave160

Posted
Posted
13 hours ago, BIGDOGx said:

The problem was quoted in the post above with it being a Front differential vent. Even before reading this post to me the only substance that could smell a tad like propane gas is gear oil imo, as the stuff is rank smelling, especially older dirty gear oil.

I was a mechanic in the 80's and 90's and I've seen instances where cats overheat and cause odors in the cab.  I've never seen any events where the differential vented enough fumes to be detectable in the cab.  I worked on 1/2 ton and 3/4 ton trucks with big tires and solid axles.  I believe that it is more likely a cat issue causing the smell than the differential vent, which is why I posted my comment.  If I am wrong then I am wrong.  I was simply providing some information from my experience so that the person who posted the question could consider it.

BIGDOGx Senior Enthusiast

BIGDOGx

Posted
Posted
8 hours ago, superdave160 said:

I was a mechanic in the 80's and 90's and I've seen instances where cats overheat and cause odors in the cab.  I've never seen any events where the differential vented enough fumes to be detectable in the cab.  I worked on 1/2 ton and 3/4 ton trucks with big tires and solid axles.  I believe that it is more likely a cat issue causing the smell than the differential vent, which is why I posted my comment.  If I am wrong then I am wrong.  I was simply providing some information from my experience so that the person who posted the question could consider it.

As i did the same thing, i am only repeating what a person in this very post claimed fixed his issue.

 

Quote

I found my propane smell, and fixed it. Coming from the front differential vent. I changed the fluid, rerouted the vent line to the rear of the vehicle up by the gas cap door and installed a inline gas fliter. Smell has disappear. Sound crazy, but its gone thank god.

 

 

Gear oil, i'm sure since you are mechanic will agree smells rank and foul and i can find it possible for it to smell a bit like Propane.

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • fourhorses88
      Actual Full Screen CarPlay on Refreshed Silverado/Sierras.

      By fourhorses88 · Posted

      I have ordered the car link adapter and registered for the google dev, will need to finish verification process later this evening when I get ahold of our kiddos android tablet. I will be using windows vs mac so hopefully it goes smoothly. I have zero tech background but I feel I can manage this with your write up.    Do you think it will be different for me? My truck is a 2023 GMC 1500, I have looked heavily into the AI boxes but I consistently find common complaints with lag.    Does carplay auto open now that you have it set up when you get in truck and turn it on? Or do you have to do open the app everytime? 
    • KARNUT
      Gas Prices

      By KARNUT · Posted

      I figured you would know about it.
    • Grumpy Bear
      Gas Prices

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      It added a cost layer to an already limited production supply. True that. 
    • Grumpy Bear
      Gas Prices

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Swap costs and supply/demand balance. When a barrel comes out of the ground the entire range of products are present but not all at the same percentage.    Breakdown of Refined Products The following table summarizes the approximate output from a standard 42-gallon barrel of crude oil: Product Type Gallons per Barrel Percentage of Total Gasoline 20 gallons 45% Diesel Fuel 9 gallons 21% Other Products 13 gallons 31%   Most of that diesel figure is 'straight run' or cut from the barrel. Gasoline 'cut from the barrel runs 0 to 20% at the crude. So in the crude unit there is more diesel the gasoline, usually.  The full refining experience however gives the tabled values. Ego there is half the diesel than gasoline after the 'first crack' That could be an FCC unit, or Isomax or....   Those units take heavy products and break the big ones into little ones. Those numbers are harder to get hold of but directionally it ends up the same.    Really light products are very profitable. Ethylene and Propylene to name two. Those are cracked from slightly heavier feeds like NG and Propane and Ethane. The cracker harshness determines the feed for distillation. Those feeds come from less profitable products like diesel and gasoline.    So...there is a swap cost. How much market is there TODAY and what crude am I running TODAY..... what is my process capable of always.    There is this as well. The USA uses allot more gasoline than it does diesel so in the cracker the process is tilted to gasoline production which....limits supply of diesel. OTR uses the most and it has different requirements than automotive and agricultural.  Limiting auto products.    You are correct however. It is less refined, just less of it. Allot less. 
    • Grumpy Bear
      Transmission Temperature Hitting 220s

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Most thermostatically controlled ATF systems use a 'wax' pill just like the one in your water thermostat. They work on the expansion volume of the wax and the pill is constructed in such a way as to limit the travel to remain within that range. This means it has an opening temperature often called the 'cracking temperature' and a fully open temperature. For whatever reason oil is designated by it's fully open temperature and water by it's cracking temperature.    Between the two it the "Regulating Temperature" The entire range is about 20 F from closed to open. In your example the lower limit, opening point of 145 F then has a fully open temp of 165 F and a throttling temperature of 155 F.    Thing is, the throttling temperature needs two things to work properly. Enough system load high enough to reach the minimum and a heat sink (cooler/exchanger) large enough to prevent any load applied from exceeding the fully open temperature.    If your system exceeds the fully open temperature it is screaming MORE COOLER.    Here is the silly part of the whole thermostat system where the oil is cooled/heated by the radiator. Nothing is flowing to that system until the oil temperature reaches the cracking temperature unless it is equipped with a minimum flow bypass orifice or a bypass built into the seating surface of the plunger. That system meant to get it up to temp quicker isn't doing a thing until WORK drives if from ambient to cracking temp. One a cold winter day, like zero F, it may never get hotter than about 110 F. Sometimes not even that.    People forget or are young enough to not know that until this millennia transmissions were cooled by the radiator cold tank alone and without a thermostat at all.  In the 50's they weren't even cooled. OEMs learn everything the hard way.    When an OEM tells you the trans "Works best" between 175 F and 220 F it means works best for THEM. The transmission thermostat is fuel play. If you watch you trans temps like I do you will learn that it may take a hundred miles if you are not towing and not driving more than say 55-60 mph on a zero F day to even reach 120 F and it might sit there all day if it's colder. Yet if functions perfectly over about 100 F. It may need to get a bit warmer for the fuel and spark maps to go without an multiplier.    Worry more about too hot. Use a cooler large enough to put that thermostat in range.         

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...