Jump to content

maxtrac lowering kit

4itodd

By 4itodd
in Modifications & Accessories

Recommended Posts

4itodd Enthusiast

4itodd

Posted
Posted

Hello has anyone used maxtrac suspension?

I Cant Find any bad reviews on them when I goggled them seemed like everyone was happy with them..

 

Anyone Here Use There Product? Thanks!

  • 1 year later...
LoweredinOK New Member

LoweredinOK

Posted
Posted

I’m only replying to a year old post because it’s cheaper than therapy.

 

 

I wondered the same thing before I bought from them.. I just got done installing a 4-7 drop kit I got from them....It was quite the ordeal.

I went to eBay, and the kit was described as a 5-7 drop kit specifically for V6 GMT 900 (08-13) trucks.  After measuring, I ask if they have a 4-7 drop kit, and place my order with the woman on the phone, and she throws me a discount!  Cool!  She repeated 3-4 times during the call that this kit was in fact for a V6 truck, and asked if I physically pulled a tape on the wheel/opening and was sure about the kit I wanted.  To be honest, I was glad to see them be so through.  Then the package arrived.

 

Tbh, The package sat in the garage for a couple weeks, but when I actually get around to opening  the box, the instructions (and corresponding PO#) are for a 6” drop in the back!  I’ve never experienced anything like this, but there is ZERO about a MaxTrac 4-7 kit on the entire Internet!  Google, YouTube, I CANT FIND ANYTHING!  I’m starting to think I got ripped off, because when I check my email for my receipt, they never sent one!  To make things even more confusing, I later realized that the pictures that accompany the text in the instructions for a 6” kit are of a guy installing a 4” rear kit!  WTF. On top of that, numerous parts were missing from the bill of materials.  But what really pissed me off, was to find out thst this kit apparently can lower everything from a V6 truck, to a 6.6 diesel, exactly 4 inches in the front!  That’s right, the kit is some universal B.S. that apparently is for 07-13 Chevy Silverado.  After calling them, they told me that a 7” drop is just a flip kit, apparently the people that box these kits up (Oh, and btw, if you don’t order directly from MaxTrac, you’re buying it from some eBay store with a fancy name, they don’t know anything about cars, and MaxTrac doesnt want to hear your sad story, don’t make my mistake). apparently the shipping department has a habit of including the wrong instructions or something, and sends me the correct instructions via email.  Well this looks more like it!  Okay, let’s get to work.

 

If you’re gonna attempt to Install it in the driveway on jack stands, got another set of COMPETENT hands and plan on a day for the back, and 5-6 hours for the front.  The kit estimates 3-5 hours for the back, maybe if the local GM dealership would let me borrow an entire service bay thst would happen.  Anyways, everyone flips their shit over how cool the truck looks (they don’t know it a 190hp DOG) but having dropped 2 other trucks in the past, I don’t remember such a degradation in drivability.  After installing the kit, the front end was horribly out of alignment, and I think the transmission mount was inadequate, because now I hear noises in the drivetrain.  As for the drop, the front end sits slightly higher than the rear (MAYBE 1/2”). Bummer.  

 

I plan on getting new shocks up front (disassembling the coil-over-strut assembly is a total pain in the ass and I imagine DJM or Belltech probably includes them with their kits) at which time I’ll buzz just a bit of the coil  spring and try to get thst extra little bit), idk.  I do know that when messing with those wheel speed sensors, make sure they stay clean, otherwise there are going to be a whole gang of warning lights (ABS, Stabilitrac, Traction Ctrl) to meet you when you fire it up.

 

The drop would probably look just right if I had a real engine up front (v8)

 

Drop kjts aren’t pharmaceuticals, the genreric ones don’t work just as well, next time I’m buying the name brand shit. 

Nasty Senior Enthusiast

Nasty

Posted
Posted

Theres nothing wrong with maxtrac.  What parts did your kit come with. And yes the front end will be way out of alignment before you tske it have aligned

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • TrueBlue
      No Software Updates - Old Build

      By TrueBlue · Posted

      I toggled my updates off a couple of years back. Since I don't have any CEL activity and the truck runs fine I'm happy to refrain from rolling the dice. I figure they've got it as good as it's gonna get. Recalls are another matter and I will strongly consider those if I get a notice in the mail.
    • TrueBlue
      Which 2027 engine will you choose?

      By TrueBlue · Posted

      We'll know soon. But at the end of the day they'll likely not take owner aggravation and costs into consideration. Probably the most important factor to them will be bottom line, along with units sold. Did they make money off sales of AFM/DFM-equipped vehicles? If yes, and the margin was large enough in spite of warranty and recall costs, I don't know that they will consider much else. Aside from government involvement of course, as in EPA and other regulatory bodies.
    • Grumpy Bear
      HighMileage oils or stay with Dexos 1 ?

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      HM oils and cleaning. Well, soft deposits yes, perhaps. Like you say esters are present in in theory that should be a plus. But, is there enough? 🤔 The marker is the "Aniline Point" and it has to be pretty low to solve out baked on deposits. The softer sludge, yea, they do that and that is the claim. Valvoline R&P is the only HM oil I know of (Jury is out on Mobil 1's product) whose chemistry is uniquely able to remove the hard stuff and not be so aggressive as to swell seals to uselessness.    Oxidation levels in virgin oils blends is a good indicator of ester level and higher is generally a lower Aniline number and at one time we could predict without the $400 aniline test it's effectiveness. AN's, alkylated naphthalene doesn't show up in the oxidation test but does show in the aniline test and has become sort of a cheaper go to but most oils only add enough to solve the additive package. Not nearly enough to clean the harder carbon materials.   To your second question about does it matter. Yes is the short answer. Deposits are insulative. Those under the piston crown for example add octane requirement for knock free running. We don't' normally notice in todays motors due to Knock sensor driven ignition R-e-t-a-r-d. At least until the full slate of available values is consumed. Newer motors also often use oil jets to cool the piston to achieve tunes that would otherwise not be possible. Deposits on either side subtract from that. Deposits in fine screens used in VVT/VVL or DFM/AFM services live and die on cleanliness and screens are front and center. Vacuum pumps as well like brake booster in the K2's.    90% of todays oils are Group II+/III blends. A few more at PAO/AN/Group II's. A few boutique oils not Walmart shelf materials have enough solvency to prevent but not remove the hard stuff. R & P the current exception. Even HPL's EC30/40 used as directed (20% max) will get the soft stuff and some varnish out but not the hard stuff.    That orange varnish isn't baked on oil. Those are fuel varnishes left when the fuel diluted in the oil drops out when the oil cools. Like sugar does in a saturated mix of sugar and water that is put into the frig. That is ring sticking material and a glue the binds hard carbon sometimes.    Name brand shelf oils are intended to provide a useful service life at the least cost and highest benefit to the OEM who is trying very hard to keep you in $500 a month payment programs where the real money is made.   Did I miss anything you asked or left unsatisfied?        
    • TrueBlue
      Brake Pad Warning Message

      By TrueBlue · Posted

      Yes, I understand. And I was saying (poorly), that it popped up on the DIC when I didn't have that info screen up. Just like you, but for a different maintenance issue. And just like yours mine didn't need to be shown at that time.
    • Atlas
      HighMileage oils or stay with Dexos 1 ?

      By Atlas · Posted

      Ugh, amateurs.   But I did learn HM seal conditioners are esters.   I'm curious about deposit removal - some of the HM oils claim they really clean stuff up, the old and hard to reach stuff, and that's great? To Grumpy's point, a good oil should already be keeping the house pretty clean. I assume there are hard to reach places (underside of pistons?) and things that just accumulate baked-on oil and combustion vapors. If the deposits aren't friction or combustion surfaces and the deposit is just normal "seasoning", is it actually important to remove it?

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...