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295/70/18 tire fitment

Iceman22
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Iceman22 Enthusiast

Iceman22

Posted
Posted

Hey guys,

 

Currently running a 2" BDS level on my 2015 midnight edition Silverado crew cab, standard bed, 4x4. As the truck sits now; I'm 38.5" (ground to fender) front and 39" rear. I am 110% committed to a body lift as I DO NOT want to modify [read:cut] any part of the cross member and need help deciding which size to choose. Will be looking at zone or performance accessories.

 

 

After doing some research I was able to find what my eye considers the perfect stance and tire, on a truck that happens to be local to me. I would like to get as close as possible to what the gentleman is running and would like your help.

 

His truck is a 2015 2500 chevy running a 295/70/18 on the stock wheel. His measurements are 40.75" front and 43.75" rear.

 

I'm about to get a little scatter brained but hopefully you follow.....with the 295/70/18 being a 34" tire, I'm essentially adding 1.25" of "tire lift" compared to my current 31.5's bringing my front up to 39.75". Now obviously I understand larger tires can't just be the lift themselves but I say that to illustrate I'm pretty close to my desired height of 40.75" in front without adding the body lift and therefore would like to go with the smallest body lift that will still accommodate the tire.

 

Can anyone tell me what the smallest size body lift I could get away with that would avoid rubbing or the need to trim between the 1.5", 2" and 3"?

 

***Will be running the tire on the factory 18" midnight edition wheels***

 

Also, not exactly sure I still understand offset and back spacing when it comes to trucks. I have no issue running a bora wheel spacer if that prevents me from rubbing. As a matter a fact would almost prefer to run a spacer that would have me flush with the fender but not poking out past it....

Aboogie808 Enthusiast

Aboogie808

Posted
Posted

Before I put my lift on, I was running a procomp 2.25" level kit. I ran 33x12.50x20 MT's with 20x9 with zero offset. I rub slightly in the fender well, but only on full lock.

 

I don't not have a lot of experience with BL, but I do have knowledge in the lifting areas.

 

The 2500 is more bigger than the 1500. So, comparing them will not be the same. Do you want to keep the rake look or level? Adding a leaf kit and rear blocks can get your rear up. Also, have you thought about upgrading your front shocks? Should you choose not to go with a BL.

  • Like 1
Iceman22 Enthusiast

Iceman22

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

I completely understand what you're saying with regards to it kind of being apples to oranges with the 2500 having a taller frame from the get go. I guess I just want to be taller while retaining the rake. And I love the look of a tall tire on 18" wheel.

 

As for your other question: I considering running a bilstien 5100 to gain the extra lift instead of a body lift but everything I've read says I can't stack the 5100's with a level kit spacer

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Edited by Iceman22
corncob Enthusiast

corncob

Posted
Posted

You might want to look at my post in the 2014 wheel/tire thread. I'm not at a computer so can't link easily at the moment.

 

This is a 295/70r18 STT Pro on a +0 18x9 wheel, with 3" of coilover "level" on the front. Definite trimming required. Of metal, not just liner.

 

6e07c5260bdf51c412946d26efbcbb7d.jpg

 

77724cb1fa5a82c5ebe3f05497b1818c.jpg

 

de5447525a9a1d52ea3a67e8c53189fa.jpg

 

 

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Iceman22 Enthusiast

Iceman22

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Interesting, I'll take a peak over there. Do you think an extra 1" of body lift would help you at all?

 

 

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corncob Enthusiast

corncob

Posted
Posted

Interesting, I'll take a peak over there. Do you think an extra 1" of body lift would help you at all?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

There's a chance it might, but I imagine it would still rub a bit, especially on grades and in reverse.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Aboogie808 Enthusiast

Aboogie808

Posted
Posted

I completely understand what you're saying with regards to it kind of being apples to oranges with the 2500 having a taller frame from the get go. I guess I just want to be taller while retaining the rake. And I love the look of a tall tire on 18" wheel.

 

As for your other question: I considering running a bilstien 5100 to gain the extra lift instead of a body lift but everything I've read says I can't stack the 5100's with a level kit spacer

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

I got you. So, yes you can run the Bilstein 5100, but get the adjustable set. This will allow you go up, but they are correct about adding spacers to it. This will max out your angles, which will cause wear and tear quick. The rack look, adding rear blocks will get you there, once your front is lifted. There are many options, but your budget will determine which route you can go.

pcruis1 Enthusiast

pcruis1

Posted
Posted (edited)

I don't think it will fit. I have a 4 inch BDS and running 33x12.5R18. I've been considering trying to run a little larger tire, but after running some backroads last weekend, I'm not going to do it. While I was running the forest service roads, I stopped and parked my truck on the side of the road in such a way that my front steering side was full compressed, while my passenger front was fully extended. I was within about an 1/8 inch of rubbing on both sides Basically, what that told me is that if I'm taking my truck off pavement, which I do quite often, I need sufficient room to allow the suspension to work properly. I guess if you're never off pavement, it wouldn't matter, but if you're going to use your truck for work or going off-pavement, I would make sure you have enough room in the wheel-well for your suspension to operate properly.

Edited by pcruis1
  • Like 1
bcbz71 Enthusiast

bcbz71

Posted
Posted (edited)

There is a guy on here named "z71 chevy" that is running a 2014 with 2.5 Level + 1.5 body lift for a total of 4" of lift. He has 295/70r18 on stockers and has minor UCA and Swaybar rub at full lock that he thinks could be fixed with a .25 spacer. From his posts, he goes offroad a lot without issue.

 

Look up his post.

 

edit:

Here's a link to his truck.

http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/178524-post-pictures-of-your-body-lifts-2014/page-8?do=findComment&comment=1758640

Edited by bcbz71
  • 4 years later...
Natham New Member

Natham

Posted
Posted
On 6/27/2017 at 4:54 PM, Iceman22 said:

Hey guys,

 

Currently running a 2" BDS level on my 2015 midnight edition Silverado crew cab, standard bed, 4x4. As the truck sits now; I'm 38.5" (ground to fender) front and 39" rear. I am 110% committed to a body lift as I DO NOT want to modify [read:cut] any part of the cross member and need help deciding which size to choose. Will be looking at zone or performance accessories.

 

 

After doing some research I was able to find what my eye considers the perfect stance and tire, on a truck that happens to be local to me. I would like to get as close as possible to what the gentleman is running and would like your help.

 

His truck is a 2015 2500 chevy running a 295/70/18 on the stock wheel. His measurements are 40.75" front and 43.75" rear.

 

I'm about to get a little scatter brained but hopefully you follow.....with the 295/70/18 being a 34" tire, I'm essentially adding 1.25" of "tire lift" compared to my current 31.5's bringing my front up to 39.75". Now obviously I understand larger tires can't just be the lift themselves but I say that to illustrate I'm pretty close to my desired height of 40.75" in front without adding the body lift and therefore would like to go with the smallest body lift that will still accommodate the tire.

 

Can anyone tell me what the smallest size body lift I could get away with that would avoid rubbing or the need to trim between the 1.5", 2" and 3"?

 

***Will be running the tire on the factory 18" midnight edition wheels***

 

Also, not exactly sure I still understand offset and back spacing when it comes to trucks. I have no issue running a bora wheel spacer if that prevents me from rubbing. As a matter a fact would almost prefer to run a spacer that would have me flush with the fender but not poking out past it....

I have a 2019LD Silverado 1500, with just a 2” level up front. Running stock z71 wheels, which I would assume have the same offset as your wheels. Have 295/70/18 Firestone mud terrains. No issues rubbing and you still have full off road capabilities. People will doubt it 100% but they fit and function same as stock tires 

68118CCD-6F9E-49C9-AD93-2578FBCFB432.jpeg

  • Like 1
IronVilkas Enthusiast

IronVilkas

Posted
Posted

Im running 285/75/17s (34s) on +0 methods with a 2.5in level from eibach. i had to trim fender liners and it still rubs a bit when locked in reverse. I will mention the Toyo MTs I have run a bit larger than others in the same size. Other wise they work very well. i would think you need some more lift or to cut some more material out since you are using wider tires.

 

worth mentioning is the stock wheels will have the wheel be sucked in a bit more than my +0 offset (stock wheels are usually about +24mm (1 inch) which means they sit in toward the engine compared to mine) So it may help you on liner rub (i think)  but youll also be closer to the suspension/frame. 

 

tire fitment is kind of an art/ kind of just referencing everything else you can find and hoping it works. I think youll be ok if you get the 1inch body lift and trim out some fender liner plastic. But dont take my word for it.

 

keep looking over the forums for anyone thats done it before and check out custom offsets website as they have people that post there fitment as well.

 

Might want to use this website too, its what i use for all my trucks when i am thinking of using a new tire size https://www.wheel-size.com/calc/  It lets you compare your current wheel/tire to your new one and it gives clearance changes as well. very useful imo. You can take measurements of your current setups clearance as a reference if want to get picky about it and find how much space youll have left and the relative changes in tire position

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