Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

Bump! This guide was so helpful, thanks again!

 

Headlights & harness - ~ $1500

Full bumper assmb  $750

fog light harness adapter - $65

Upper bumper pad repaint - $175.

 

For a little under id say $2500 I am beyond happy. I still have all my old components incase I ever decide to revert back and sell the 16+ parts as I doubt they'll lose much value. This is a very good investment if you plan to keep your 14-15 Sierra for 7+ years as it solved my itch on wanting a new truck since I am not a fan of the T1's. This conversion is definitely not for everyone and I believe i got a steal on the bumper so keep in mind prices do vary. But it is not a hard swap by any means. 

 

7C07DE73-28C3-49DB-B830-F5FAAF380C81.jpeg

70F94EBC-8D5D-46EB-B879-FD57A47BD500.jpeg

Edited by texasaggies16
  • 1 month later...
Posted
On 3/11/2019 at 6:08 PM, texasaggies16 said:

Bump! This guide was so helpful, thanks again!

 

Headlights & harness - ~ $1500

Full bumper assmb  $750

fog light harness adapter - $65

Upper bumper pad repaint - $175.

 

For a little under id say $2500 I am beyond happy. I still have all my old components incase I ever decide to revert back and sell the 16+ parts as I doubt they'll lose much value. This is a very good investment if you plan to keep your 14-15 Sierra for 7+ years as it solved my itch on wanting a new truck since I am not a fan of the T1's. This conversion is definitely not for everyone and I believe i got a steal on the bumper so keep in mind prices do vary. But it is not a hard swap by any means. 

 

7C07DE73-28C3-49DB-B830-F5FAAF380C81.jpeg

70F94EBC-8D5D-46EB-B879-FD57A47BD500.jpeg

That looks 1000x better man and nice work on the deals you got for the parts. Did you buy a different color upper bumper pad and just take it to a paint shop for repaint?

Posted

Personally, I prefer the 2015 front end with squared grille round fogs. I do like the LED taillights better on the 16+ though. I am sure your lighting performance is twice as good as a 2015 though by going to the LED lights. I just put an HID kit, Morimoto LED fogs and 30" bar behind the grille like Texassggies to battle those problems. Nice truck in either spec OP. 

Posted
On 5/8/2019 at 5:01 AM, zoom said:

That looks 1000x better man and nice work on the deals you got for the parts. Did you buy a different color upper bumper pad and just take it to a paint shop for repaint?

Yes when I bought the bumper/grill for 750 he gave me a black upper pad that was is nearly perfect condition. So I had to get it repainted from black to my color but that was easy. 

 

Thank you very much! I still am extremely glad I did the conversion. Could I have gotten away with my original lights all together? Yes but I dont know if I could own a vehicle without LEDS now LOL! I feel my truck looks better now, I am happier to drive it and I have yet to see one like it. 

 

If you are patient on parts I think this conversion could be done even cheaper. Well Worth it for anyone not wanting to buy a new truck lol.

Posted
On 5/8/2019 at 11:24 AM, L86 All Terrain said:

Personally, I prefer the 2015 front end with squared grille round fogs. I do like the LED taillights better on the 16+ though. I am sure your lighting performance is twice as good as a 2015 though by going to the LED lights. I just put an HID kit, Morimoto LED fogs and 30" bar behind the grille like Texassggies to battle those problems. Nice truck in either spec OP. 

I dont have anything against the 14-15 front end minus the amber corners when can be cleared.. But I was just tired of aftermarket HID parts and was tired of messing with it. Honestly HIDS/leds in fogs and a light bar is PLENTY of light but im a bit of a perfectionist so I like the factory look of my full conversion along with all the LEDS matching. 

Posted (edited)
19 minutes ago, texasaggies16 said:

I dont have anything against the 14-15 front end minus the amber corners when can be cleared.. But I was just tired of aftermarket HID parts and was tired of messing with it. Honestly HIDS/leds in fogs and a light bar is PLENTY of light but im a bit of a perfectionist so I like the factory look of my full conversion along with all the LEDS matching. 

I'm in the same boat, factory look is better 99% of the time, plus it will be better for resell as well whenever that time might come. I have the newer headlights on the way right now and I've been waiting on a good deal for a full bumper assembly to pop up and then I'll continue with the rest. The original front end doesn't look bad by any means so I'm willing to wait a good amount of time on each of the parts for the conversion, I just had to switch the headlights out now but we'll see what deals come up.

Edited by zoom
Posted
7 hours ago, zoom said:

I'm in the same boat, factory look is better 99% of the time, plus it will be better for resell as well whenever that time might come. I have the newer headlights on the way right now and I've been waiting on a good deal for a full bumper assembly to pop up and then I'll continue with the rest. The original front end doesn't look bad by any means so I'm willing to wait a good amount of time on each of the parts for the conversion, I just had to switch the headlights out now but we'll see what deals come up.

I would check your local facebook marketplace. I found my bumper on facebook the day i started looking!

  • 1 month later...
Posted (edited)
On 2/22/2018 at 10:40 PM, 15SierraAT said:

*You will have to locate 4 retainers for the grille, these are already pre drilled, As for everything else, it goes together like a breeze!

 

(Bumper Assy) I didn't use either of the yellow items in the photo below, I trimmed the old side retainers down roughly 3mm

to accommodate new top pad:

1.thumb.png.a82d23bb7a79332d05e6869827cc73da.png

Where did you trim on the old side retainers for the new top pad to work? Top, bottom, or sides of the retainers? Did you use a Dremel rotary tool or something similar?

Here's a picture of my driver side retainer.

GetAttachmentThumbnail?id=AQMkADAwATEwYmIANy00YzM1LTE4M2ItMDACLTAwCgBGAAADL1fu2xyd50KwlRlIHumRnQcATQtVp7I29EGdLR7In6GFUAAAAgEMAAAAtC7Y94w350e1%2FAuAyEuSCAAB5EfX9AAAAAESABAA3zwxWdYZukaet8IW%2Bb27ag%3D%3D&thumbnailType=2&owa=outlook.live.com&scriptVer=2019070101.09&isc=1&X-OWA-CANARY=xv7FT3EhHESdxanNwTXrveCJ_x73A9cYEBHkk5rPcAY72Jgri6z3e0IoLjTExTENEvrwDkmEePg.&token=eyJhbGciOiJSUzI1NiIsImtpZCI6IjA2MDBGOUY2NzQ2MjA3MzdFNzM0MDRFMjg3QzQ1QTgxOENCN0NFQjgiLCJ4NXQiOiJCZ0Q1OW5SaUJ6Zm5OQVRpaDhSYWdZeTN6cmciLCJ0eXAiOiJKV1QifQ.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.eUr_2au0XwsVoPZAU-ETi84VpjjN1GIzXnQwPU6oJNub5Fqzi8IhuRtvElBmj5UwwExhKosD9EMZqc1-7v--RB8aKag4p84aOhgQ6zqXgrFtvTqLO8ERt0BxoKNUB3VtXkLN8R5BMR1wL1CUmHIzd8XKB6wSmKmlMGUNWbW1FajlUXQStgznwIlsaClf-X53JbT-RXAUg0fv6BU0JHnWNzBtM8jz4xb-XAtpOl9YpaPacErkpk6waH29UU9XGpgz4OIBYfwTVhJiVlAymyy8HtwuCGTh5aAGJE4YCfMFHrkDsrydd6cs4ACRVjOp3mBhuvgdl9UqD_HQb2_SIE4vdg&animation=true

 

Also, my new 2016 grille matches up at the top where 4 bolts go, and it matches up in the center where there are 2 push retainer clips, but that seems to be all that lines up. It seems like it should have 2 more push-in retainer clips out near the edges of the grille like my 2014. And the bottom of the 2016 grille, none of the bolt holes seem to line up with the bolt holes on the "air baffle" that sits behind the grille. The 2014 grille had 4 bolts along the bottom of the grill that mounted to the truck. What am I missing here?

 

xVlvQZdU1eJl721_Lc1SKxm7uJ3tr6wLy6wjpvkkzEViqsApZyNEUY7-qucm_xUSqV0Wm4nhPgYb2leIOVw35noSbchu7EsKTvoNemBWZ0ycRr8ldFKDNb-sakIG4BXvAM2bmw3_QArQFCLkrdJgNEIMVLT0ZhRgbgoZ-4la5RtqeJLHk40oTu9BBRUau6pvMS0y7l7p0hSQ20K-qe0Z5pB1JOEYI4YiiiaSUvk4hDMXVcnly-NpL4zvokTgGjUhAOvYpu0EKAnj8QSSdAIfdt1yujt3s2qy-kaGIR7pNLPn0nNO-ascjjLdn0rqS4ugAYZtdrK9OkX8HlPblvRjnchR153rcO69oVjKbIxKFgvq8vFe8C0Hw7fri3Xdye4nv2-kgy1t2tsgWmoBckbJyfz15kAXaaDUJTYuCw9wj7kB0Tt_rG747Pxu6y0GEJpUsTY60XkijBT6JyEnOsbFup2jq-qhUufc7BlghkzHDp2tfELmyuTYCTUoIh7nzpK3FVJyyQgRaH4GeyLpy1sWcD9n88Zur5jtoeKewM7hb0_6Hd_xppNUueYXT3cSGwr0FIOQtJUt57P5A8wRbU_s4fJxI0YKZKC5ovHkleXvG8ChdSSKJYWRhD6VvB0awsK8MCiflQWjHIJs_go4rO68pDybb1gYDrhH=w1185-h889-no

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by uncledaddy
image
Posted
On 7/8/2019 at 3:28 PM, uncledaddy said:

Where did you trim on the old side retainers for the new top pad to work? Top, bottom, or sides of the retainers? Did you use a Dremel rotary tool or something similar?

Here's a picture of my driver side retainer.

GetAttachmentThumbnail?id=AQMkADAwATEwYmIANy00YzM1LTE4M2ItMDACLTAwCgBGAAADL1fu2xyd50KwlRlIHumRnQcATQtVp7I29EGdLR7In6GFUAAAAgEMAAAAtC7Y94w350e1%2FAuAyEuSCAAB5EfX9AAAAAESABAA3zwxWdYZukaet8IW%2Bb27ag%3D%3D&thumbnailType=2&owa=outlook.live.com&scriptVer=2019070101.09&isc=1&X-OWA-CANARY=xv7FT3EhHESdxanNwTXrveCJ_x73A9cYEBHkk5rPcAY72Jgri6z3e0IoLjTExTENEvrwDkmEePg.&token=eyJhbGciOiJSUzI1NiIsImtpZCI6IjA2MDBGOUY2NzQ2MjA3MzdFNzM0MDRFMjg3QzQ1QTgxOENCN0NFQjgiLCJ4NXQiOiJCZ0Q1OW5SaUJ6Zm5OQVRpaDhSYWdZeTN6cmciLCJ0eXAiOiJKV1QifQ.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.eUr_2au0XwsVoPZAU-ETi84VpjjN1GIzXnQwPU6oJNub5Fqzi8IhuRtvElBmj5UwwExhKosD9EMZqc1-7v--RB8aKag4p84aOhgQ6zqXgrFtvTqLO8ERt0BxoKNUB3VtXkLN8R5BMR1wL1CUmHIzd8XKB6wSmKmlMGUNWbW1FajlUXQStgznwIlsaClf-X53JbT-RXAUg0fv6BU0JHnWNzBtM8jz4xb-XAtpOl9YpaPacErkpk6waH29UU9XGpgz4OIBYfwTVhJiVlAymyy8HtwuCGTh5aAGJE4YCfMFHrkDsrydd6cs4ACRVjOp3mBhuvgdl9UqD_HQb2_SIE4vdg&animation=true

 

Also, my new 2016 grille matches up at the top where 4 bolts go, and it matches up in the center where there are 2 push retainer clips, but that seems to be all that lines up. It seems like it should have 2 more push-in retainer clips out near the edges of the grille like my 2014. And the bottom of the 2016 grille, none of the bolt holes seem to line up with the bolt holes on the "air baffle" that sits behind the grille. The 2014 grille had 4 bolts along the bottom of the grill that mounted to the truck. What am I missing here?

 

xVlvQZdU1eJl721_Lc1SKxm7uJ3tr6wLy6wjpvkkzEViqsApZyNEUY7-qucm_xUSqV0Wm4nhPgYb2leIOVw35noSbchu7EsKTvoNemBWZ0ycRr8ldFKDNb-sakIG4BXvAM2bmw3_QArQFCLkrdJgNEIMVLT0ZhRgbgoZ-4la5RtqeJLHk40oTu9BBRUau6pvMS0y7l7p0hSQ20K-qe0Z5pB1JOEYI4YiiiaSUvk4hDMXVcnly-NpL4zvokTgGjUhAOvYpu0EKAnj8QSSdAIfdt1yujt3s2qy-kaGIR7pNLPn0nNO-ascjjLdn0rqS4ugAYZtdrK9OkX8HlPblvRjnchR153rcO69oVjKbIxKFgvq8vFe8C0Hw7fri3Xdye4nv2-kgy1t2tsgWmoBckbJyfz15kAXaaDUJTYuCw9wj7kB0Tt_rG747Pxu6y0GEJpUsTY60XkijBT6JyEnOsbFup2jq-qhUufc7BlghkzHDp2tfELmyuTYCTUoIh7nzpK3FVJyyQgRaH4GeyLpy1sWcD9n88Zur5jtoeKewM7hb0_6Hd_xppNUueYXT3cSGwr0FIOQtJUt57P5A8wRbU_s4fJxI0YKZKC5ovHkleXvG8ChdSSKJYWRhD6VvB0awsK8MCiflQWjHIJs_go4rO68pDybb1gYDrhH=w1185-h889-no

 

 

 

 

 

PM me i can help you.

  • 5 months later...
Posted
15 hours ago, Mark Duvall said:

I have an 08 suburban and I want the 2014 up front conversion..

.any help out there?

Buy a '15+ Suburban.  Not even a similar topic to this thread, as this is just doing the factory facelift update to a K2 truck vs GMT-900 to K2 front conversion.  

Posted
I have an 08 suburban and I want the 2014 up front conversion..
.any help out there?
The 14 burb and 08 burb have same front...

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

  • 3 months later...
Posted (edited)

768EE75D-3605-452B-8E35-E8BB8665525B.thumb.jpeg.3fcc81da1f92281049fb563fed19da85.jpegI noticed you put the “parking aid system wiring harness” with a green dot. But do you really need to buy it if you not have parking sensors in the bumper??

Edited by GMGeo
  • 5 months later...
Posted (edited)

Hi to all , i have a 2014 silverado and i want to change the front end to a sierra 2018 ,,, because i like the gmc and in mexico the sierra its much more expensive than the silverado ,, someone has done it or a recommendation to change it.

 

La imagen puede contener: automóvil y exterior

 

 

 

Thanks. 

Edited by culloa
  • 4 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,759
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    DM22
    Newest Member
    DM22
    Joined
  • Who's Online   6 Members, 1 Anonymous, 1,658 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Did have to make 1 modification because of the WeatherTech rear mud flaps and that was needing 3 longer screws than what came with the install package. 😄
    • Picked up the liners yesterday. Installed passenger side WITHOUT any modifications. All mounting holes lined up perfectly. Rain is interfering today with drivers side. Very Happy! Will add pics when finished
    • As a matter of amusement I’ll leave this conversation with this. Do you beat the government average fuel estimate? Statistics are a guide to me. Not a rule. Someone once said I have to have the last word. If true and possible may be. I’ll blame that on working in a family business.
    • That is a fair point, and I agree that trying to log “everything in the truck” would be the wrong direction.   There are a lot of modules and a lot of traffic. If the product became a full-truck datalogger, the amount of data would get huge very quickly, and most owners would never use it.   I think the first useful version would need to be narrow: - powertrain-side event evidence - selected high-value parameters - communication / voltage / reset events - pre/post event window - short report first, raw log only as backup   One distinction I should make is between active OBD/PID polling and passive bus capture. If you are polling PIDs through OBD, then yes: the more parameters you request, the lower the effective sample rate becomes, and you are adding diagnostic traffic to a vehicle that is already busy running itself. With passive CAN capture, the recorder is not asking all the modules for data. It is listening to traffic that is already on the bus. So it does not consume vehicle bus bandwidth in the same way that a scan tool polling hundreds of PIDs would. But your point still applies in a different way.   Even if passive capture does not add bus traffic, the recorder still has limits: - processing rate - storage rate - timestamp accuracy - decoder workload - event filtering - report size - user attention span   So the answer cannot be “log everything and let the user figure it out.” The product would need to store enough raw evidence to be useful, but only decode, graph, and present the important parts around the event.   A practical report should probably show: - what triggered the capture - how much pre/post data was preserved - which selected parameters changed - how those values compared to baseline - whether the same pattern happened before - whether any voltage, reset, bus-off, lost-message, or communication fault occurred - selected graphs around the event - raw data only as supporting evidence   So I agree with you. More data is not automatically better. The real product is the reduction from raw data into a useful event report.
    • That makes sense, and I agree with most of that.   I think the product would need both: 1. a default powertrain template, so it is useful out of the box; 2. user-selected priority parameters, so the owner or shop can choose what they want to see first.   Different users are going to care about different things. One owner may care about oil pressure and voltage. Another may care about misfire trend, AFM/DFM behavior, or U-codes. A shop may want communication events and repeatability first. Your baseline point is probably the most important one. Raw data is not very useful unless the report can show what normal looked like for that vehicle under similar conditions.   The way I would think about it is: - start with a basic known-good baseline - learn normal behavior for that specific vehicle over time - allow the event to be overlaid against baseline - show whether the event was a one-time spike or a repeatable pattern - provide a simple severity level, but with clear limits on what that severity means   For example, early severity could be something like: - Info: event captured, no obvious abnormal pattern - Watch: value moved outside baseline, but not repeated - Warning: repeatable abnormal pattern under similar conditions - Critical: communication loss, voltage drop, bus-off, reset, or severe repeated event   I would not want the first version to say “replace this part.” That would be overclaiming unless there is repair-confirmed data behind it. It would be more honest to say “this pattern deserves inspection.”   On the OBD port question, I think OBD absolutely has a role. OBD is probably the right place for: - DTCs - freeze frame - VIN - calibration information - normal scan-tool parameters - Mode 6 / enhanced diagnostic data if available The reason I am still looking at an ECM-side recorder is that the failure may happen before anyone connects a scan tool. If the owner plugs in a scanner after the event, the pre-event evidence may already be gone unless the ECU happened to save it. So I do not see this as “OBD versus ECM-side.” I see it more like: - ECM-side recorder: always armed, rolling buffer, event evidence - OBD/DLC companion: DTCs, freeze frame, VIN, calibration, normal scan data - phone/cloud: status, notes, upload, report generation, notifications   I agree that phone connection and push notifications would be useful. I just would not want the phone or cloud connection to be required for capture. The recorder should save the event locally even if the phone is not connected. The phone should help with event marking, download, notes, upload, alerts, and report viewing.   For a default GM V8 event report, would this list make sense? - RPM - calculated load / MAP - throttle position - vehicle speed - gear / torque converter state if available - coolant temperature - oil pressure - oil temperature if available - battery voltage - commanded AFM/DFM state if available - actual AFM/DFM state if available - misfire counters / roughness by cylinder if available - fuel trims - relevant U-codes / communication events - bus-off / lost periodic message / module reset / voltage drop events Which of those would you remove, and what would you add?
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...