Jump to content

Transfer case input bearing CLIP


Recommended Posts

Posted

The XHD version must be different, as I was pretty sure my 261HD had one that worked as I described (you have to make it smaller to remove it), and I re-watched the assembly youtube video I worked off, and it was definitely that way...

 

But it's great that you got it out.

Posted

I gave up. I fabricated my own tool by grinding some flat spots on an 11 inch needlenose pliers. It came close to expanding the spring clip enough. But even with the spring clip completely disappearing into the molding of the case, it was not enough expansion to remove the bearing. It's almost like the clip was 1/16 of an inch too short. I believe if it was that much longer I could expand it enough. Although it did not complete the job, the tool I fabricated worked better than the spring clip pliers.

Larry

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

Posted

THIS. This is the tool I should have had all along. It's better suited for these snap rings that have no holes. This tool has flat tips that are knurled to help grab the beveled edge. Once I had this tool in hand, it only took three or four attempts and I got this bearing out. I had literally already given up and was putting the transfer case back together. Since I had large chunks together it was easy to take large chunks back out to get to this bearing and change it out. I'm very happy I didn't leave the job undone. Lesson learned. Get the right tools. I just didn't know I didn't have the right tools.

20180528_104956.jpg

Posted

Thanks for all the help and ideas. it helped me know that I wasn't going crazy or doing something completely stupid.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • You have to have the last word. 
    • I am sure that was quite the pass experience and not a great place to experience during the winter when the conditions are not good. I've seen video of that pass and also more detailed information and pictures about the wrecks at that one hair pin turn where tractor trailers have flown right off the cliff and I am sure from all the warning signs that you know the exact curve that was !. After all there is a reason why a song was made about Wolf Creek Pass !. By the way and I didn't realize this either when I bought my truck as its nothing I even thought of that would be programmed into the cruise control and this occurs in either the basic or the more advanced cruise that controls your distance behind a vehicle and that is the brakes going down a hill are being applied as soon as the vehicle goes a certain speed over the set cruise speed. While it certainly does force downshifts in the transmission as you found out with cruise on while going down hill, its also dragging the brakes as needed to keep the speed controlled to what the cruise was set to. For me, I find that unsettling simply because I have no concept then as to how MUCH brake input is being used a and just how hot are those brakes getting and the wear factor as well. I can see that system getting a person into trouble on long mountain grades while pulling a trailer as it would not only be standing on the brakes of the pickup without any driver input, it would also be automatically applying the trailer brakes and it could cause a run away unit by overheating the brakes. Its one thing on a shorter hill and if the driver allows it to do its thing but on a long mountain grade is where things could get so out of hand. As someone a while back on this forum said, they had someone following them at night I believe on a down grade and had the cruise set and the person behind them could see the brake lights being energized all the way down the hill. I figured when I saw your comment that you didn't know and would have no way of knowing that your truck was applying the brakes and that you would and rightfully so assume you only used the brakes when you pressed on the pedal to slow down more than the cruise set speed for the slower sharp curves. So its good knowledge to know this about the newer GM trucks, certainly when doing any descending on long mountain grades. In the future try kicking off the cruise and use the the manual mode on a pass to see what that is like as I know myself when I first experienced it I thought no way can this engine be holding me back this well and tried the same hill in manual mode and sure enough the engine was revving way up and still could not hold the trucks speed down like it could in cruise mode.    Fuel mileage, that is where a really low sleek type of car can do better at higher speeds, certainly it starts sucking fuel too but a tall pickup is pushing massive amounts of air and also allowing a lot more air under it and the tow mirrors as in elephant ears pushing through the wind  as well. Driving like grandpa is about as good as one can do when driving one of these if trying to get the best fuel economy they can. I bet these trucks would get the best mileage they can if driven on a freeway in Florida if not busy traffic at a sedate speed and that sea level elevation without hills, vastly different then Colorado !. 
    • It’s over for almost 24 hours. Are you playing Eddie Haskell? 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...