Rough Ride - Input on my Torsion Suspension?

[Smoot178]

Hello.

I just purchased a 2005 Sierrra 1500. It's got 4x4 with torsion bars on the front and 1500lb (stock?) springs on the back. I just put new Monroe 911502 on the back, but it didn't improve things so far (unrelated, they had to be replaced).

The ride quality is sub-par. It feels very sturdy but I get this weird feedback you usually associate with a really heavy duty truck. Every bump resonates through the truck and I want to eliminate the ride height as the problem. To me, it looks like the lower control arm is sitting on the rubber bump stop. Do I need to tighten the torsion bar up?

I don't intend to haul or tow, so a more comfortable ride is more important to me.

Pictures attached.

 

Edited July 10, 2018 by Smoot178

[Silverado4x4]

With it being a 05 those torsion bars are tired as I see its sitting on the bump stop pretty hard, I would jack the front up with the wheels off the ground and crank each bar about 3-4 complete even turns (soak those adjusting bolts down with some WD-40 first) drop it back down and go for a ride, you might need to get new torsion bars as they are pretty weak. You should have about 1/4" gap in-between the bump stop and the A-arm for a stock truck. I would also invest in some front shocks also by the looks at them there gone too.

Edited July 10, 2018 by Silverado4x4

[Supreme Pizza]

The ride height needs to be adjusted to a specific spec. If it is not adjusted properly, it will shorten the life of your front end bushings. The previous owner probably tried to "lower" the vehicle by adjusting them. As for the resonating bumps, check your tire pressure and front hub bearings. As for your front shocks, they can only be evaluated visually if there are signs of oil leaking out of them. There are specific tests you can perform to check the chocks. Do you have 4 ply or 10 ply tires? How much oil are you using? Its looks like some pretty serious leaks. 

[Smoot178]

15 hours ago, Silverado4x4 said:

With it being a 05 those torsion bars are tired as I see its sitting on the bump stop pretty hard, I would jack the front up with the wheels off the ground and crank each bar about 3-4 complete even turns (soak those adjusting bolts down with some WD-40 first) drop it back down and go for a ride, you might need to get new torsion bars as they are pretty weak. You should have about 1/4" gap in-between the bump stop and the A-arm for a stock truck. I would also invest in some front shocks also by the looks at them there gone too.

I will do some testing with adjustments.  Thanks for the suggestions.

 

13 hours ago, starman8tdc said:

The ride height needs to be adjusted to a specific spec. If it is not adjusted properly, it will shorten the life of your front end bushings. The previous owner probably tried to "lower" the vehicle by adjusting them. As for the resonating bumps, check your tire pressure and front hub bearings. As for your front shocks, they can only be evaluated visually if there are signs of oil leaking out of them. There are specific tests you can perform to check the chocks. Do you have 4 ply or 10 ply tires? How much oil are you using? Its looks like some pretty serious leaks. 

Tire pressure is 38 PSI.  I am actually replacing a hub bearing tomorrow for a bad wheel speed ring.

 

Tires are 3 ply I guess.  They are Yokohama GEOLANDAR H/T G056 P275/65/R18 114T

 

Oil is good.  No leaks, that oil you see is from an oil change accident.  I missed the old gasket and it blew off when I started the truck

 

I'm actually going to swap my tires with my new Michelin LTX M/S's I have on my van.  They ride REALLY nice.

[Smoot178]

I went ahead and increased the adjustment by 4 full turns.  The bottom bump stop is now about 1/3-1/2" away from the lower control arm.  I did a test drive and it might feel a tiny bit better but at least I can rule out this.  Next up are shocks and whatever else might need replacing.  

 

I couldn't swap tires because as it turns out I have 15's on my van, haha.  I thought I had 18's.

 

For some reason, a previous owner also swapped out the OEM rims for larger rims.  Stock size are 17's and there are 18's on there.  When I do eventually get tires, I might go back to stock.

[Supreme Pizza]

4 hours ago, Smoot178 said:

I will do some testing with adjustments.  Thanks for the suggestions.

 

Tire pressure is 38 PSI.  I am actually replacing a hub bearing tomorrow for a bad wheel speed ring.

 

Tires are 3 ply I guess.  They are Yokohama GEOLANDAR H/T G056 P275/65/R18 114T

 

Oil is good.  No leaks, that oil you see is from an oil change accident.  I missed the old gasket and it blew off when I started the truck

 

I'm actually going to swap my tires with my new Michelin LTX M/S's I have on my van.  They ride REALLY nice.

 

 

 

 

 

   Isn't the speed ring on the CV axle, rather than the hub? Try dropping your tire pressure to 30 PSI to see if improves the fell of the suspension. 

 

 

 

 

[Smoot178]

49 minutes ago, starman8tdc said:

 

 

 

 

 

   Isn't the speed ring on the CV axle, rather than the hub? Try dropping your tire pressure to 30 PSI to see if improves the fell of the suspension. 

 

 

 

 

I'm pretty sure it's in this thing:

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001EGT3I4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

The CV axle does slip into it... but the ring is in the greased area of the bearing.

 

 

Quote

Each front wheel is equipped with a speed sensor, which is mounted on each front hub and wheel bearing assembly. A toothed sensor ring is integral with the bearing; if it becomes damaged, the entire hub/wheel bearing assembly must be replaced.

Edited July 11, 2018 by Smoot178

[Supreme Pizza]

41 minutes ago, Smoot178 said:

I'm pretty sure it's in this thing:

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001EGT3I4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

The CV axle does slip into it... but the ring is in the greased area of the bearing.

 

 

 

 

 

Ya, I think you right. I don't see any of these on the CV axles for that rig: 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[SarahsGMC]

PB Blaster on those bolts overnight and again the next day and turn with a long wrench or cheater bar very very carefully, if I remember right 4 turns right is an inch of height, wheels must be off the ground.  Those bolts are prone to breaking if they haven't been moved in a while or old ask me how I know lol.  I would do 2 turns evenly each side drop it down measure floor to middle of inner fender and adjust again as needed.

 

EDIT- missed the post where you already did it but yea lmao

Edited July 11, 2018 by SarahsGMC

[Smoot178]

4 hours ago, SarahsGMC said:

PB Blaster on those bolts overnight and again the next day and turn with a long wrench or cheater bar very very carefully, if I remember right 4 turns right is an inch of height, wheels must be off the ground.  Those bolts are prone to breaking if they haven't been moved in a while or old ask me how I know lol.  I would do 2 turns evenly each side drop it down measure floor to middle of inner fender and adjust again as needed.

 

EDIT- missed the post where you already did it but yea lmao

Thanks for the tips.  That's exactly what I did and it went pretty good.  

 

Bringing the tires down to 30 PSI did nothing or made it worse.  It rides worse than the back seat of an unloaded F350.

[Supreme Pizza]

10 hours ago, Smoot178 said:

For some reason, a previous owner also swapped out the OEM rims for larger rims.  Stock size are 17's and there are 18's on there.  When I do eventually get tires, I might go back to stock.

 

 

 

 

    Increasing the rim size will drastically effect the ride comfort.