Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

That is the TSB that my dealer is working on.  I'm getting new panels as part of the work.

Posted
1 hour ago, Huskersfan said:

Was there an observable problem they saw that inspired them to replace the panels? Or are there new versions?

I can not answer that.  All I know there are three boxes in the bed that have new panels in them.  Since it's going to be 3 weeks for the rest of the parts to arrive, I've picked up my truck with a disassembled insert.  I have not compared the old panels to the new ones..

  • 1 month later...
Posted

I have a 2017 High Desert Leaker. So they released two (2) kits to try to fix the problem, the current “fix” is Bullentin # 18-NA-135. Chevrolet Customer Service told me I would have to pay for the fix as not covered under Warranty. The truck has only 17K miles on it.

 

The reality is the HDP is a lemon and I suggest all who bought these to file with their State Department of Motor Vehicles Lemon Law Complaint division. Chevrolet advertised these as having a water-resistant cargo management system to protect from extreme elements. All the Chevy ads and promotions are still on-line to attach to your filing.

 

We had seven (7) Avalaches starting with the first year of no body armor to the Black Diamond and never had issues like we are having with the HDP. 

 

Safe travels to all,

 

 

victorcharlie

 

 

  • Like 1
Posted

Yes, that is the TSB that involves enlarging drain holes and adding shims, which is what I have already done. It also replaces the rubber seal/ channel on both sides that is the length of the bed (it's what the panels rest on).

 

I already performed those myself except for replacing those two seals. I wasnt sure they were causing as much of a problem as other areas. 

 

What I am wondering is if there is a separate TSB from that one that involves replacing panels, seals, etc. And if there is what info or title it is so it can be looked up by my dealer

Posted

Shims? Another Shim fix for the K2?  :smash:

Many of us have shims under our gas pedal bracket to increase throttle response :thumbs:

Posted
19 hours ago, Victorcharlie said:

I have a 2017 High Desert Leaker. So they released two (2) kits to try to fix the problem, the current “fix” is Bullentin # 18-NA-135. Chevrolet Customer Service told me I would have to pay for the fix as not covered under Warranty. The truck has only 17K miles on it.

 

The reality is the HDP is a lemon and I suggest all who bought these to file with their State Department of Motor Vehicles Lemon Law Complaint division. Chevrolet advertised these as having a water-resistant cargo management system to protect from extreme elements. All the Chevy ads and promotions are still on-line to attach to your filing.

 

We had seven (7) Avalaches starting with the first year of no body armor to the Black Diamond and never had issues like we are having with the HDP. 

 

Safe travels to all,

 

 

victorcharlie

 

 

Good luck with a lemon law.  Every article that I have read about the High Desert package states that it is "water resistant".  Kinda like the difference between my work boots and my waders.

  • Thanks 1
Posted

I understand the difference between water-resistant and water-proof. Where the lemon law comes into play is that it was advertised as being able to protect cargo from extreme elements. Go online and google it and the 2017 Chevrolet ads are published with the wording. If you own a HDP,

you know from a rainstorm to a washing you will have water in the cargo bed. How can it protect from extreme elements when you cannot even wash it?

 

 

Posted

Be careful with any of the parts and pieces with the high desert package. 

 

The V shaped seal that is designed to press against the tailgate when closed was damaged by me. On mine it doesn't touch in several areas causing water and dirt to enter the bed. In an attempt to modify it I tore the rubber.

 

I contacted a local dealership and they told me that rubber seal isn't available at all, he had to way to order one. 

 

I looked up some parts places, but when I call to confirm the part nobody answers.

 

So at the moment I have it held together with gorilla tape. 

Posted

Thirteen or 14 months ago the now deceased Service Manager at the dealership told me the original panels aren't reinforced and therefore sag.  They were supposed to be redesigning the panels with steel reinforcements so they wouldn't sag, they would be replaced under warranty.

 

He never mentioned anything about drain holes being enlarged or seals being replaced.  Either he did or didn't know about that.  It makes no difference as I said previously he passed away from cancer a little over a month ago.  With the selling and change of the dealership and change in Service Dept. people no one their knows about the problem.  My High Desert was the only one the former dealer sold.

Posted

Huskersfan,  I'm sure you know the v shaped seal is part of the third (rearmost) panel.  The whole panel has to be replaced.  It's ridiculous, but supposedly Chevrolet/GM is supposed to be replacing, under warranty, all three panels along with all seals and whatever else is included with TS8 18-135.

 

The day I took delivery of my truck the salesman was showing me the features of the easy lift tailgate.  Duh it was the third vehicle I had it on.  He didn't know how to open the side compartments via the electric lock button.  I easily figured it out by myself when I got home.  When he had the tail gate down I noticed the rear most panel locking lever on the passenger side was missing the yellow/green trim cab.  I think the next day he left the dealership and never passed on the deficiencies I noticed that he was supposed to pass on to the service dept.  Two weeks later a woman called to see why I hadn't yet completed the dealer satisfaction survey.  She told me the salesman had left.  Later that day I received a phone call from the then owner apologizing for the lack of attention to my vehicle.  The next morning I was at the dealership and met with the woman who had called and the Parts Manager.

 

The parts manager gave me the complete parts diagrams for the High Desert Package.  The trim cap was not shown on the parts diagram.  They had to order a whole new panel which was replaced at no cost to me.  It took about three weeks to come in.

 

My High Country with the High Desert Package was just under $70,000.   The $6995 High Desert Package should have actually cost just about $0.10.  From the mid 1980's thru 2001 I had several GMC and Chevrolet pickups without tonneau covers.  This High Desert Package makes about as much sense as an uncovered pickup box.  Especially after having 5 Chevy pickups with tonneau covers, which never leaked a drop, and two Avalanches, 2011, and 2013 which also never leaked a drop of water.

 

The dealership was sold about 3 months ago and the current owner has no interest whatsoever in even attempting to try to correct the problem.  It's what happens when a big time dealer from a large metropolitan area takes over a small town dealership.  All they are interested in is sell, sell, sell.  To hell with past loyal customers with long standing problems .  Come on in we'll appraise your truck, and sit down and work up a deal for a new truck we have in stock.  What you say you ordered your 2017.  Gee that's too bad.  We'll just stick it to you with the depreciation, and make a bundle on your trade in.

 

Minus the High Desert Package I love the truck.  If I had elected to just get a tonneau cover I'd be a very happy camper.  I ordered my truck with just every option except the kitchen sink and bathroom toilet in place of the back seat.  The High Desert Package is worth just about what a toilet expels  when one operates the flush handle/button.

 

As everyone can tell I'm not at all pleased with the High Desert Package fiasco.  Especially when they say that even after the TSB is completed there is no guarantee the box will remain dry.  Isn't a dry pickup box what we unfortunates expected when we elected to purchase a pickup with the High Desert Package?  Chevrolet please bring back the Avalanche.

Posted

The V shaped seal I am referring to is not on one of the removable panels. It's the rest of what is supposed to seal the tailgate. It seals the sides and bottom of the tailgate when it's closed, it's held on with those plastic push in things. 

Posted

Huskersfan, I gotcha.  It's to late to look at mine tonight, but I'll look tomorrow.  Unfortunately the parts manager didn't give me the parts diagram which shows the tailgate and associated seals.  He was only concerned with trying to find the lock lever trim cap.  If you don't have them I'd be glad to scan in the three parts diagrams, and associated part numbers list, as either .jpg files or PDF files, and send them to you as an attachment to your private email address.

 

I'd like to get a copy of Technical Service Bulletin, TSB 18-135, if anyone has one they can copy and post or send to my private email address.

 

I believe the retainers, push in clips, you are referring to are sometimes called Christmas tree clips.  At least in the parts list for my Husqvarna lawn tractor that's what they are called.  They are used to hold a trim panel in place on each side of the motor.  When I change the oil I have to remove one panel and the clips tend to get damaged.  So I ordered a half dozen of them and they call them Christmas tree clips.  I guess because if you set them with the head on the bottom they do sort of look like a Christmas tree.  In the past I always saw them referred to as push in clips or push in retainers.  I guess as long as they do the job the name isn't critical.

 

There's a online parts place which is owned by Malouf Chevrolet in North Brunswick, New Jersey.  Their online website is www.gmpartsxperts.com.  Their phone number is 800-769-6256.  I've talked to them in the past, and find them pretty helpful.  The name of the guy I spoke with is Keith Diperi.  He is pretty sharp.  He's the Parts Manager for Malouf Chevrolet, and also the gmpartsxperts.com web site.  Might be worth a call unless you haven't already been in contact with them.

Posted

Gentlemen; I have a copy of TSA 18-NA-135. Over the weekend I will scan and try to post it.

 

I filed a complaint with the Texas Dept of Motor Vehicles, then followed up with a lemon law claim

based on the fact that the HDP has design flaws and cannot do what the Chevrolet ads claims with Regard to having the ability to protect cargo from extreme elements.

 

i also sent a certified letter to the Chevrolet Customer Service center notifying them of my filing a lemon law complaint giving them  30 days to fully repair or replace the vehicle. 

 

I meet with with a different dealer next week for them to look at my HDP, if fact I chose the other dealer as I refuse to go to the selling dealer after they were less than honest on two occasions.

 

All HDP drivers need to file complaints with their state DMV and file lemon law complaints

so we all can benefit.

 

i will post what happens next with Chevrolet as I am standing firm that they must make good on the HDP, take the sucker off and cash refund the value of the option or replace the vehicle along with a cash settlement.

 

No one should have to pay for any fixes or repairs on this edition.

 

 

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 
    • So, do I go elbow-deep on this thing or list it for sale and play dumb? Seems to "runs good."   I'm about $1200 away from having: -a rebuilt injector ($300) -a new cat ($250) -a new cat back exhaust (OE style) ($300) -a new AC compressor ($200) -AC refrigerant charge ($150)   In theory, this should rectify the obvious detracting issues from its value and operability. Cold AC with a non-squeaking AC pulley both sounds and feels good. An exhaust that isn't cut/hacked in 17 different places and doesn't vibrate on a crossmember would make it sound and feel less janky. A working cat would help the stink, and will save the earth, but *if and only if* the fuel system is working properly, which would also address the intermittent "rich" CEL.   Heard a good one... CEL for "Rich condition" means you haven't spent enough money on the truck lately, and it's letting you know.   Rebuilding the injector would seem to be the most important part. Replacing the cat would be secondary. I don't think mine is plugged or overly restricted, but it might be a little restricted? I have no good way to tell other than seat of the pants feel. I hate the smell.   The current theory is I have a rich idle problem: A bad fuel pressure regulator, or a leaking injector(s) being the highest probabilities. I already replaced the FPR but that doesn't mean its replacement isn't also bad. It was a new part from Dorman, but the packaging looked like it had been sitting on a shelf for 20 years.   This is the (single) upstream O2 sensor shown at idle. I'm getting a lot of "rich" it seems. Sometimes it stays high like that and doesn't drop down. That makes me think it's processing injector leaks or a partially stuck open injector.     Other times it looks like this. Nice oscillations between rich and lean, which is what I think it should be. Under load and at speed, the oscillations are nice and tight and uniform looking, high and low.     Fuel trims suggest the PCM is compensating pretty hard at idle to pull fuel out. But it's not enough to trip a CEL. Something about slowing to a stop: brake vaccum booster, EGR, or the EVAP purge is delayed, or there's pooled fuel in the intake again that's draining into a cylinder is enough to set the CEL. Of course, in two days of driving, it hasn't set. I was hoping to actually look at the freeze-frame data when it sets. IAT is high because it's idling on an 83 degree day here.  
    • Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...