Jump to content

advantages of 265/75/16 over 245/75/16 ??


Recommended Posts

Posted

It looks like many truck owners change there tires to one or two sizes larger than what originally came on the truck. I know that the larger tire looks good, but what other advantages does the larger tire size have?? I know that with the larger tire size your MPG may suffer a small amount, and your speedo may be off by about 3%, but do you get any other advantage from the larger tires size on the same OEM rims??

 

Thanks!

 

I just changed my 1500HD stock tires to the Bridgstone AT Revo's size 265/75/15 from the stock firestones steeltech atx's They look really good too!

Posted

Ups are Better Looks, and higher load capacities and more tire to the ground...

 

Downs are more unsprung weight, speedo/odo off, loss of power etc...

Posted

Not to forget mentioning the added ground clearance. Might not sound like much. Not like you taking running 245 vs 315's. But sometimes every little bit helps. The speedometer issue can easily be fixed with a programmer or custom chip. Plus with them gain more HP's and Torque. :smash:

Posted

I see no advantage other than they may look a little better. You are talking 1 inch in diameter average for 265's over 245's, only 1/2 inch radially. When I was ready for new tires I wanted to go with 265's, but after checking with a few dealers about reprogramming for speedo,tranny and anti lock brakes, all required, they advised me not to do it. They claimed that everything is calibrated so tightly that sometimes things work correctly and sometimes they act funny. I also saw a TSB for a suspension vibration problem and the TSB told the dealers that if the truck had different size tires than what came stock, the customer had to put the stock tires back on before investigating the problem. The other negative I see is the lower acceleration from a stop. Just my 2 cents!

Posted

I went from 245's to 265's and no big changes other than looks. Steering feels a little different though. As for the speedo it is exactly the same as those roadside speed signs, and I have tested more than one. They probably dont have pinpoint accuracy but at least it shows the same speed my speedo shows.

Posted

Mine came factor with 265 so I see no problem going from 245 to 265. Currently I have 285's. My main reasons were the extra ground clearance, better traction, and the truck also looks better. With the 265's my speedometer was right on, with the 285's I have about a 2mph difference, no real big deal. Acceleration does suffer a little but I'm not driving a vette here.

Posted

AZ-Z71, You are correct about your 1999 coming with 265's, after that they did not offer 265's even as an option. The door jamb sticker shows the 2 sizes on 99's but only shows 245 on later models. Actually my '01 calls for P metric 245's which I replaced with LT245's. I also see people saying better traction with the wider tire, but on snow, the wider tire hurts your traction since the vehicle weight is disperssed over a larger footprint.

Posted

Kinda weird that the '03 1500 Z71s come with the 265 size and the HDs come with the 245 sized tire.

Posted
Kinda weird that the '03 1500 Z71s come with the 265 size and the HDs come with the 245 sized tire.

Well some places recommend a 7 inch wheel for 265's and if I am correct the 2500s and up only have a 6.5 inch wheel. Plus it costs more to get a 10 ply in a 265 than it does in a 245.

Posted
I also see people saying better traction with the wider tire, but on snow, the wider tire hurts your traction since the vehicle weight is disperssed over a larger footprint.

That's not always true. On pavement with wet or slushy roads that would be the case. There is more chance of hydro-plaining with a wider tire. But any situation where you want to ride on top of the snow, the wider the better for traction. That's also the reason for airing down the tires for sand and snow. A bigger contact patch for flotation.

 

265s are still a factory option with the Z71 package.

Posted

Hectorx, I think you are combining the properties of snow and sand together. They are different. On sand you lower the air pressure so that the vehicle WILL NOT dig in and start spinning, on snow, you WANT to dig in to maintain traction and steering control. If you have ever tried to drive a sports car with wide tires on snow you will know what I mean. A small car with narrow tires will have much more control in snow than the sports car with wider tires. I have never heard of anyone letting air out of thier tires to drive thru a snow storm and I have been driving in New England winters for more years than I care to remember.

Posted

Don't worry about what the dealer says regarding different size tires. They are simply covering their backsides. Personnaly, I went from 265 to 285 on my '97 1500 2 1/2 yrs ago and couldn't be happier. They fixed my speedo, work great in snow and mud, look great, more carrying capacity, more ground clearance, better ride (more sidewall), better braking, and higher mph downshifts (because the computer thinks the truck is moving slower than it really is). Hydroplaning and snow traction aren't much of an issue because I went with a more aggressive tread (my actual tire surface didn't change that much). I will be upgrading the '01 Yukon from 265/70 to either 265/75 or 285/75 shortly for all of the same reasons as above. The dealer told me the bigger tires would trash my transmission as well but I have 110,000 on the original and it works great. Lack of knowledge is the main reason that the dealer is the last place I turn for advice or repairs.

Posted

jhm what I was refering to is situations where the snow is too deep and if you dig you will be high centered before you find traction. Driving in deeper powered snow is very much like driving in sand. If the depth of traction exceeds your ground clearance, you don't want to dig. In most cases you are correct, you want to dig down where there is a hard surface. But there's not always a reachable hard surface.

Posted

Well weight over area...I look at it this way, have a 100 pound lady stand on your foot with a spiked heel and then with a sneaker. I prefer the sneaker. Weight being displaced over a larger area. Same principle if walking in the snow with boots verses snow shoe. How about a snowmobile with a track or with tires. Get the picture, more area equals less likely of punchig through. Works great with sand, works great with deep snow, not so good in the rain.

 

Seeing I'm from the desert, sand and steep rocky terrain, it works for me. Hardly any rain so not a problem.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I like the idea.  I would pick diesel if I had a choice. I need pictures though.
    • I've installed cheap eBay new aftermarket digitizers before.  They work.  Did a bunch of Cadillac CUE (aka Cadillac's MyLink) for someone years ago.  They all worked fine after the repair.    That number 22740886, that is a component part # for GM.  You can use it to search, but its not something that's obtainable at the dealer level.     So pretty much any of these will work - 2015 Colorado Digitizer for sale | eBay
    • Black bumper and the later years Z-71 style color matched grille.
    • You can install tailpipes that direct the exhaust sideways vs the OEM one that goes straight back. There are several on the market, do you own research. HOWEVER, you need to make sure the Venturi vents are still intact, otherwise it will throw a engine code. There is a sensor somewhere that detects back pressure on the exhaust. And if it doesn't collect the correct metrics, it will throw the truck into limp mode. 
    • "Teardown" is complete. Head surfaces are clean and ready, new intake is prepped and ready. Coolant drained and water pump is removed, radiator is removed, new hoses and pump are ready.   The replacement intake is also from a '95 (with I think 260k, the odometer said). Noticeably less pitting where it covers the rear coolant passages. I'm not sure if that's a tribute to more frequent use, more frequent coolant changes/upkeep, or if the intake was machined at some point. But it appears I found a good one.   My coolant hoses were original, and the lower hose still retained the factory spring inside. It's not really rusty, but it's got deposits all over it. Unsure if I should re-install it (will thoroughly clean it first). Someone said hose technology has gotten better since 1995 (has it?) and I don't need the spring. I think modern EPDM is what made those hoses last from 1995-2026, so it's a question of how much suction can the water pump really pull, and will it collapse the hose without a spring?   I'm stopped and waiting for parts, however.   When I first brought the truck home, the fan was intermittently hitting the radiator shroud. I could see someone had monkeyed with the shroud (put a bunch of cardboard as a spacer between the upper/lower shroud halves. Someone said the motor mounts have likely failed and the engine has sagged. I wasn't sure I believed that. The engine is really solid in its mounts: To remove the old intake I *just* nearly permanently welded to the heads with freshly cured RTV and gasket snot two weeks ago, I literally had to use the arms on my lift and a chain with a bolt attached to the intake to pull it loose. It almost picked the front of the truck off the ground before ....scuuuuuuuuuuup.... I could actually hear the gaskets tearing and it broke loose and the whole truck settled back down. Motor barely moved.   SO, those parts I'm waiting on... The lower radiator mounts/bushings had completely failed. The radiator needs to be insulated from the rad support, and the bushings help the rad stand at the correct height. The plastic "baffle" was also destroyed at some point. Someone had attached the shroud to it incorrectly, overlapping a joint that should have been underlapped, creating another suspect issue potentially causing things to hit the fan. Broken tabs, side is busted off, and it's perma-formed/bent where it was jimmied incorrectly.   The baffle? Unobtainum. Long since discontinued from GM, of course. Aftermarket/capa/chinese? Also unobtanium. In GM's infinite wisdom, it appears there are at least two different variations whether the Blazer is 2 or 4 door, and I can't yet tell if they shared the same part with the S-pickups. Plan B, if I can't find a viable used one, will be to create a bracket to re-assemble the critical joint I need to seal a gap with the shroud. But that will bug me, it won't be...perfect.   The water pump bolts appear to have been installed with...plumber's putty. I guess, sure, if it works...? I've found a few "backyard fixes" like that. Someone's been here before....   If I can't find someone to jam bamboo under my fingernails to fill my free time this week I think I'll install the driver's power window motor and replace the rear door speaker that's inop. I've got a genuine GM "9.5" ohm working replacement. Why GM used a non-standard resistance....nevermind. Of course they did, you can get more sound from a cheap factory amp that way.   And the saga goes on...
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...