Jump to content

2018 GMC Sierra Creaking Noise When Turning

FishNowWorkLater

Recommended Posts

FishNowWorkLater Enthusiast

FishNowWorkLater

Posted
Posted

3200 Miles

SLT Sierra

 

I have a creaking noise when turning but only while the truck is moving.  If I turn the steering wheel and hold it in a turned position the creaking stops, but as soon as I start moving it again and as long as the truck is under load / moving it creaks again when turning the wheel.

 

So far the dealership has re-greased the intermediate shaft, re torqued all suspension and steering components and replaced the steering column.

 

 

B R A D Enthusiast

B R A D

Posted
Posted

Welcome to the club. Mine will make the noise whether or not I'm in motion. Mine has been greased as well and has also had the upper and lower steering shaft changed out, with zero luck.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

Spurshot Senior Enthusiast

Spurshot

Posted
Posted

My recollection was that someone had this issue on a GMT900 and that model suspension carried over to the K2.  They stated that there were 2 large bolts on the front crossmember that needed re-torqueing . 

 

"you need to have the front Cross member TIGHTENED.......GM DOCUMENT #4645801"

 

Link to another thread.  One guy had a loose steering stabilizer. 

 

B R A D Enthusiast

B R A D

Posted
Posted
My recollection was that someone had this issue on a GMT900 and that model suspension carried over to the K2.  They stated that there were 2 large bolts on the front crossmember that needed re-torqueing . 
 
"you need to have the front Cross member TIGHTENED.......GM DOCUMENT #4645801"
 
Link to another thread.  One guy had a loose steering stabilizer. 
 
Thanks for sharing, I hadn't seen this.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

BigBlueLB756 Senior Enthusiast

BigBlueLB756

Posted
Posted

If you've added side steps, nerf bars or running boards that fasten to your truck using the cab bolt points for mounting them, you could possibly have contact between the board mount and the chassis bolt mount pocket.  This can be fixed by adding some thick body washers between the cab body and the board fixtures to give some extra clearance so that things don't touch when the body torques over when you turn or apply the brakes.

 

Just a thought.

FishNowWorkLater Enthusiast

FishNowWorkLater

Posted
  • Author
Posted

 

On ‎9‎/‎7‎/‎2018 at 2:02 PM, B R A D said:

Welcome to the club. Mine will make the noise whether or not I'm in motion. Mine has been greased as well and has also had the upper and lower steering shaft changed out, with zero luck.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 

 

On ‎9‎/‎9‎/‎2018 at 8:03 AM, B R A D said:

Thanks for sharing, I hadn't seen this.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 

 

On ‎9‎/‎9‎/‎2018 at 7:26 AM, Spurshot said:

My recollection was that someone had this issue on a GMT900 and that model suspension carried over to the K2.  They stated that there were 2 large bolts on the front crossmember that needed re-torqueing . 

 

"you need to have the front Cross member TIGHTENED.......GM DOCUMENT #4645801"

 

Link to another thread.  One guy had a loose steering stabilizer. 

 

 

On ‎9‎/‎9‎/‎2018 at 3:23 PM, BigBlueLB756 said:

If you've added side steps, nerf bars or running boards that fasten to your truck using the cab bolt points for mounting them, you could possibly have contact between the board mount and the chassis bolt mount pocket.  This can be fixed by adding some thick body washers between the cab body and the board fixtures to give some extra clearance so that things don't touch when the body torques over when you turn or apply the brakes.

 

Just a thought.

 

 

Thanks for all of the info guys, I'll check into each of these suggestions.  I'll report back with my findings.

  • 1 year later...
Like2Detail New Member

Like2Detail

Posted
Posted

Just curious if the original noise sounded like it was coming from the dash?  I have a 19 Yukon XL Denali and it's "creaking" during low speed turns and driving me crazy.  Have pulled apart much fo the dash with no luck.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • asilverblazer
      Slate Electric Truck

      By asilverblazer · Posted

      I like the idea.  I would pick diesel if I had a choice. I need pictures though.
    • newdude
      Help purchasing a touch screen digitizer

      By newdude · Posted

      I've installed cheap eBay new aftermarket digitizers before.  They work.  Did a bunch of Cadillac CUE (aka Cadillac's MyLink) for someone years ago.  They all worked fine after the repair.    That number 22740886, that is a component part # for GM.  You can use it to search, but its not something that's obtainable at the dealer level.     So pretty much any of these will work - 2015 Colorado Digitizer for sale | eBay
    • asilverblazer
      give me some tips to make my truck look better

      By asilverblazer · Posted

      Black bumper and the later years Z-71 style color matched grille.
    • fondupot
      Exhaust heat while towing!

      By fondupot · Posted

      You can install tailpipes that direct the exhaust sideways vs the OEM one that goes straight back. There are several on the market, do you own research. HOWEVER, you need to make sure the Venturi vents are still intact, otherwise it will throw a engine code. There is a sensor somewhere that detects back pressure on the exhaust. And if it doesn't collect the correct metrics, it will throw the truck into limp mode. 
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      "Teardown" is complete. Head surfaces are clean and ready, new intake is prepped and ready. Coolant drained and water pump is removed, radiator is removed, new hoses and pump are ready.   The replacement intake is also from a '95 (with I think 260k, the odometer said). Noticeably less pitting where it covers the rear coolant passages. I'm not sure if that's a tribute to more frequent use, more frequent coolant changes/upkeep, or if the intake was machined at some point. But it appears I found a good one.   My coolant hoses were original, and the lower hose still retained the factory spring inside. It's not really rusty, but it's got deposits all over it. Unsure if I should re-install it (will thoroughly clean it first). Someone said hose technology has gotten better since 1995 (has it?) and I don't need the spring. I think modern EPDM is what made those hoses last from 1995-2026, so it's a question of how much suction can the water pump really pull, and will it collapse the hose without a spring?   I'm stopped and waiting for parts, however.   When I first brought the truck home, the fan was intermittently hitting the radiator shroud. I could see someone had monkeyed with the shroud (put a bunch of cardboard as a spacer between the upper/lower shroud halves. Someone said the motor mounts have likely failed and the engine has sagged. I wasn't sure I believed that. The engine is really solid in its mounts: To remove the old intake I *just* nearly permanently welded to the heads with freshly cured RTV and gasket snot two weeks ago, I literally had to use the arms on my lift and a chain with a bolt attached to the intake to pull it loose. It almost picked the front of the truck off the ground before ....scuuuuuuuuuuup.... I could actually hear the gaskets tearing and it broke loose and the whole truck settled back down. Motor barely moved.   SO, those parts I'm waiting on... The lower radiator mounts/bushings had completely failed. The radiator needs to be insulated from the rad support, and the bushings help the rad stand at the correct height. The plastic "baffle" was also destroyed at some point. Someone had attached the shroud to it incorrectly, overlapping a joint that should have been underlapped, creating another suspect issue potentially causing things to hit the fan. Broken tabs, side is busted off, and it's perma-formed/bent where it was jimmied incorrectly.   The baffle? Unobtainum. Long since discontinued from GM, of course. Aftermarket/capa/chinese? Also unobtanium. In GM's infinite wisdom, it appears there are at least two different variations whether the Blazer is 2 or 4 door, and I can't yet tell if they shared the same part with the S-pickups. Plan B, if I can't find a viable used one, will be to create a bracket to re-assemble the critical joint I need to seal a gap with the shroud. But that will bug me, it won't be...perfect.   The water pump bolts appear to have been installed with...plumber's putty. I guess, sure, if it works...? I've found a few "backyard fixes" like that. Someone's been here before....   If I can't find someone to jam bamboo under my fingernails to fill my free time this week I think I'll install the driver's power window motor and replace the rear door speaker that's inop. I've got a genuine GM "9.5" ohm working replacement. Why GM used a non-standard resistance....nevermind. Of course they did, you can get more sound from a cheap factory amp that way.   And the saga goes on...

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...