radiator and engine flush

[toddgotfish]

anyone done the full flush on a 00 5.3

t-stat has to come out i know , but heard that the t-stat

is built within the t-stat housing

just wondering , need to do it soon

much thinks

 

Todd

[bigtruck21]

i've also heard about the stat being built into the housing. I haven't flushed, but was thinking of a way to flush with deionized water instead of tap water out of the hose. Don't want any reacting going on in there.

[Black02Silverado]

It wouldn't surprise me if the Tstat was built in. I doubt it but knowing the General they would do it just to make more money in the parts department and or service department. Now to find out. Anyone? Anyone?

[toddgotfish]

you guys might hate me but ....

last night i dropped the drain tube and let it flow

i then took the hose and dropped it in the resevoir and turn it on a little

i cranked the truck and let it run for about 40 minutes

when i went out to check it the temp was normal and

the drain tube was pouring pure water

stopped the hose and the truck and let it drain until it stopped

closed the drain and topped it with 50/50 til it was full

temps cool and manual said use reg drinking water

i change every 18 months anyway

let me know if you think i'll have any probs down the road

Todd

[AZ-Z71]

I've done mine on a 99. Yes the thermostat is built into the housing. I also changed mine with a factory new one from the dealer and it cost me like $25. Partszone or Gm Parts direct has them as well but with shipping it would have only saved me a dollar.

 

I didn't do a real flush per say, I basically dropped the tube (Into a bucket toddgotfish, haha) and let it all dump that way. It really took a long time for it to drain through the small hose. After I drained it I took the lower hose off where it connected to the block and the thermostat. Let the remainder drain there. I think when all said and done I got all but about a gallon and a half. After visually inspecting the openingss which looked as clean as new, no gunk built up in the thermostat, and the old fluid looked as good as the day one, (90,000 miles), I filled with a 50/50 mixture using dexcool and bottled water from the grocery store. I know it said drinking water and I drink water from the tap but I didn't want to take a chance for the lack of spending an extra two dollars for drinking water at the store.

 

The main reason I actually changed my thermostat and fluid was because I have been experiencing an over heat problem I can't seem to find. After doing all this I still didn't find the problem. It may have something to do with temps being over 100-110 and the fact I lifted my truck with a 3" body lift which actually lowered the position of the fan in relationship to the radiador. Even though I made shields from metal to seal the gaps I also think it is because of fan is no longer centered. I could be wrong but so far everything else seems to check out.

[asepgrad98]

supposed to use "distilled" water not "drinking" water from store.

[Jersey Tahoe LT]

AZ. Not really sure if the Overheating thing would be because of the BL. I did my Tahoe and have had no problems with the high 90's and 100% humidity here in jersey. But you never know. Todd I think you should be ok.

 

Later,

Brandon

[AZ-Z71]

Draining and Filling Cooling System

 

Caution

With a pressurized cooling system, the coolant temperature in the radiator can be considerably higher than the boiling point of the solution at atmospheric pressure. Removal of the surge tank cap, while the cooling system is hot and under high pressure, causes the solution to boil instantaneously with explosive force. This will cause the solution to spew out over the engine, the fenders, and the person removing the cap. Serious bodily injury may result.

 

 

 

Notice

When adding coolant, use DEX-COOL® coolant. If silicated coolant is added to the system, premature engine, heater core or radiator corrosion may result. In addition, the engine coolant will require change sooner-at 50 000 km (30,000 mi) or 24 months.

 

 

The following notice applies to the 4.8L, 5.3L, and the 6.0L engines only.

 

 

Notice

DO NOT use cooling system seal tabs, or similar compounds, unless otherwise instructed. The use of cooling system seal tabs, or similar compounds, may restrict coolant flow through the passages of the cooling system or the engine components. Restricted coolant flow may cause engine overheating and/or damage to the cooling system or the engine components/assembly.

 

 

Drain and Fill Procedure

 

Important

If you do not follow the procedure below, a low or high coolant level condition and/or vehicle damage could result.

 

 

Park the vehicle on a level surface.

Follow the steps below in order to remove the radiator surge tank fill cap:

Slowly rotate the cap counterclockwise.

Stop rotating and allow the hissing to stop.

After all hissing stops, continue turning counterclockwise in order to remove the cap.

Remove the drain hose from the left side of the radiator tank and repositon the hose to a catch pan.

Open the radiator drain cock.

Allow the system to drain completely.

Inspect the engine coolant:

Discolored -- follow the flush procedure below.

Normal in appearance -- Continue with the next step.

Close the radiator drain cock.

 

Important

When filling the cooling system use a 50 to 60 percent concentration with DEX-COOL® coolant.

 

 

Fill the system through the radiator surge tank opening.

Pre-mix a 50 to 60 percent solution of DEX-COOL® and clean, drinkable water.

Slowly add the pre-mixed solution to the system until the level is slighlty above the surge tank split line.

Start the engine.

Idle the engine for 1 minute.

Loosely install the surge tank cap. Do not allow the system to build pressure.

Cycle the engine from idle to 3000 RPM in 30 seconds intervals until the engine coolant reaches 99°C (210°F) and the thermostat opens.

Shut off the engine.

Refer to step 3 in order to remove the radiator surge tank cap.

Start the engine.

Idle the engine for 1 minute. Fill the surge tank to ½ inch above the COLD FULL mark on the radiator surge tank.

Install the radiator surge tank cap.

Cycle the RPM. Idle the engine to 3000 in 30 second intervals until the engine coolant reaches 99°C (210°F).

Shut off the engine.

Top off the coolant, as necessary, to ½ inch above FULL COLD mark on the radiator surge tank.

Rinse away any excess coolant from the engine and the compartment.

Inspect the concentration of the coolant.

 

This came from the GM shop manual.

 

Jersey Tahoe, no problems under 100. Seems to be more of a problem over 100 with mild humidity.

[Jersey Tahoe LT]

Well that sucks. I hope you figure it out. Good luck

 

Later,

Brandon

[SilveradoWV]

They changed it from distilled to drinkable a few years ago I noticed!

[asepgrad98]

GM does say "drinkable" but it is worth the 77 cents a gallon not to have chlorine, fluride and other chemicals in there.