Jump to content

Jerseytaylor Build 6.0 Build Progress


Recommended Posts

Posted

Recalibrating the computer for bigger tires was not mentioned and you have a much bigger tire so keep in mind the computer thinks the tires are still turning as fast as they did before (smaller tire means more turns per mile) when it calculates the mileage. Could make quite a difference.....

Beautiful truck by the way!

Posted
On 12/31/2018 at 10:48 PM, cdh027 said:

Damn! Youre getting 15mpg without regearing? That's nuts.

the gauge read that after a 2 hr drive. definitely not treating that as gospel but honestly, i was expecting that this thing was going to get like 5-6mpg lol. i am very pleasantly surprised. pulse and glide and reading the terrain properly and keeping the speed at 55-60 on the highway seems to be the perfect sweet spot. I do drive like an old man lol...

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

checking back in. half ton SLT/Denali headlights are on! Man are they an upgrade...visually.

Light output wise, I would say that the projector and my 55w HID's at 5000k are stronger. But again, visually, these make the truck look so much more modern up front. 

Also, idler and pitman supports added, a steering stabilizer and kryptonite tie rods. Truck drives extremely well now.

light.jpg

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted
updating this a bit. the truck is pretty much finished. got it sitting exactly as I wanted it to.
tnp11.thumb.jpg.74b07480f2f8d9e3072db9b7ee16fedc.jpg
tnp12.thumb.jpg.74512c301623acfa2a69da64b092b7c0.jpg

Truck looks great, maybe remove the valance and steps (for amps, if you want steps) and CM the tailgate handle bezel portion


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted
1 minute ago, jimmyboy8301 said:


Truck looks great, maybe remove the valance and steps (for amps, if you want steps) and CM the tailgate handle bezel portion


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

no no no. i need the steps with -76 offset man. they help curtail (a little) bit of debris getting thrown up. I tried the no valence look for a week- hated it. Truck looked like it had bucked teeth haha...

Posted
no no no. i need the steps with -76 offset man. they help curtail (a little) bit of debris getting thrown up. I tried the no valence look for a week- hated it. Truck looked like it had bucked teeth haha...

lol you gotta at least trim it up a little, it looks like a snow plow hanging down.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  • 4 weeks later...
Posted
On 11/11/2018 at 10:28 PM, jerseytaylor said:

The final step was to add on the 2016-2018 1500 LED tailights- no idea why we never received an upgrade (both for headlights and tails) but imo these really "refresh" the back end quite a bit. One day I may look to also update to the 2016-2018 SLT/Denali 1500 headlights but thats further down the road.

 

tp8.jpg

tp10.jpg

Are these plug and play?  

Posted

I totally agree with keeping both the valence and the steps. I took my valence off and thought it looked horrible. Trimming made it look much more appropriate though. 

If I were you, I'd still consider Morimoto fogs. They present an amazing light pattern and would look great (especially with that dark truck). I'd also think about putting Boost Auto Parts mirror lenses on now that you've upgraded the headlights. The Boosts will match your rooftop marker lights and headlight LEDs better. They're pretty cheap and basically plug'n'play. 

https://boostautoparts.com/products/switchback

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • You seem to be struggling with reading comprehension.   I HAVE SAID 3 TIMES THAT THE BOTTOM OF THE CROSSHATCH IS A QUART BELOW FULL.    I have also said that the manual will not call that "1 quart low" because it is not a quart below the acceptable range in answer to asilverblazer saying that he has never seen the bottom of the marking noted as "1 quart low" in a manual. The wording of the manual allowing for an acceptable range would indicate that .00001" above the add mark is ok. Also, because the manual allows a range, a quart below full and a quart below acceptable are two different volumes. Thus the manual will not use the phrasing "1 quart low"
    • GDI Injector tips are in the combustion chamber and yes, they are subject to the same aromatic hydrocarbon based carbon build up the entire chamber is subjected to. Chevron Techron is a PEA based cleaner (polyether amine)  that is VERY effective if the dose is high enough.  Carbon the tips disrupts the spray pattern so keeping them clean is kind of a big deal. It will clean more than the injector tips. It will keep the inside of the injector tip clean as well. When they shut off they 'hot soak' building varnish internally behind the pintle. The tip, unlike most MFI systems have several orifices of very small diameter. They have to stay clean to work right. That spray pattern is supposed to spray into the cup in the piston, not all over the cylinder walls. Old guys will understand...    Top Tier Chevron has enough of the cleaner to be effective if used regularly. Other solutions could be Shell V Power Nitro + Premium and Exxon/Mobil Supreme Plus Premium ONLY use a different chemistry to the same effect with the added bonus of a friction/antiwear additive as well. Red Line SI-1 is PEA based as well with an upper cylinder lube. There's a white paper on their site for shock treatment of system left untreated for long periods. AMSOIL PI has a full system cleaner of yet another chemistry that will strip carbon out of the power cylinder pretty quick. Gumout Regane is also PEA based but at very low doses and those that are isopropanol based will not be effective. Alcohol content is way to low. Chevron Techron in any pump gas, Use by package instructions. 10 oz per 15 gallons every 3,000 miles. First use may require two treatments.    So, Techron, Red Line SI-1 and AMSOIL PI if batch treating and Shell, XOM Premium or any Chevron Fuel will not just keep it clean, but will clean it if dirty. No other fuel "I'm aware of will do that".    Flex Fuel motors. If you use at least 40% alcohol on a regular basis they won't carbon at all. PEA is not recommended for fuels over E-20     (www.carparts.com)
    • It is always a good idea to exercise it at least every few months to make sure the actuators don’t get stuck. It is also a good idea to actually drive it for at least a few hundred feet when you do that so seals experience motion and oil movement.  Off pavement or snow/ice is best for this, but driving wet pavement in a straight line for a  short distance will work if you don’t have other options. I have  forgotten and gone as long as six months between exercising it on my 2021 and it has always shifted promptly.  I usually just use my straight 300 foot gravel driveway.  
    • Absolutely!  These forums are legion with posts of people complaining that their truck wouldn't go into 4WD when they needed it to.  Most of them hadn't used it ever or in years.   I try to run mine through the paces every month or so and drive it a few miles on a dirt trail near the house a couple times a year if not already off-roading.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...