Jump to content

Recommended Posts

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...
Posted

....it's somewhat funny, people have been requesting updates for at least 2 years if not more, and none have been forthcoming...

  • Like 1
  • 4 months later...
  • 3 months later...
Posted

Did you end up finishing this swap? Would love to see the finished product. Also, what paint did you use to paint the interior and did it flow with the high country interior? 

  • Haha 2
Posted
14 hours ago, Andrew_01 said:

Did you end up finishing this swap? Would love to see the finished product. Also, what paint did you use to paint the interior and did it flow with the high country interior? 

Read through the whole thread for your answer...

  • 3 months later...
Posted

I did the same dash swap in my 04 and it fits perfectly but I’m wondering if you completed the wiring? I’m trying to find the pin out connection diagrams for the newer connectors in the dash and having a hard time finding anything online. Are you keeping the original factory harness or swapping to the newer harness?

  • 1 month later...
Posted
On 5/6/2025 at 10:33 PM, thompnatee said:

I did the same dash swap in my 04 and it fits perfectly but I’m wondering if you completed the wiring? I’m trying to find the pin out connection diagrams for the newer connectors in the dash and having a hard time finding anything online. Are you keeping the original factory harness or swapping to the newer harness?

I have an 04 and was wondering if you found everything you needed to complete the swap. send pics if you have them.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
On 11/26/2018 at 8:15 PM, 08gmc17 said:

seats need a little love not much, and i got them in. i had to remove the mounts from the original seats and had to weld them onto the new seats. So now is to get all the wiring ready for the dash

My 2017 gmc 2500hd seats suck/hurt.  My old 2006 2500hd were great!  Can 2006 seats be installed into a 2017 fully manual; work truck trim)?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,889
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    smandy
    Newest Member
    smandy
    Joined
  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 527 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Holy s**t - not much of a parts thrower you say? You BLASTED that thing with the parts cannon!  You'd have been probably $1,000 ahead if you had just brought it to a competent shop rather than shotgunning a bunch of parts it clearly didn't need.   Just FYI - oil additives are really, REALLY good at ONE thing ... and that's emptying your wallet. They're ALL useless gimmicks.   If that has the L94 or L99, then #7 is an AFM cylinder. I'd suspect a failed lifter in that case.   If you leaned on wiring, sensors, and/or connectors while changing the oil, you'll have to check all that to be sure pins didn't get pulled out, connectors broken, etc.. Old wire loom that was barely adequate when new is certainly brittle by year 19 - make sure wires aren't chaffed and shorting out somewhere where you might have leaned. or supported yourself on it.   If your a mechanic, why didn't you just find out what you were missing and troubleshoot from there??  TIMED spark, fuel PSI / injector pulse, air, compression.  Can't make ANY money going the parts cannon route.
    • LOL! Are you joking?? That wax SUCKS! 100% gimmick made to "look" good.    After just TWO winters I had severe surface rusting in patches over 90% of the frame. Only reason it looks great in the pics is because I SATURATED the frame every single fall with used motor oil for 14 of the 16 years I owned it. Otherwise it would've been sent to the crusher 8 years earlier with the speed it was rusting prior!    I sold that POS 3 years ago. Was a gigantic headache the second it rolled off the showroom floor. Brakes pulsated on the TEST DRIVE. Door trim fell off the 1st week! Interior squeaked and rattled, and the drivetrain clunked after 2k miles. 4x4 switch failed shortly after. Front end - ball joints, struts, hub bearings - all failed between 38k-50k. Engine started burning oil at 50k. Rear and and transmission failed before 100k. Nothing but problems, and frustration with the piss-poor engineering designed to make you give up. Well, it worked! Nothing on that truck was easy to remove ... except the wheels. They haven't figured out how to screw that up yet. Give 'em time ...   I won't make that mistake again. EVER.   Such fond memories ... https://postimg.cc/K1qf23tS  https://postimg.cc/gallery/X02z64J  https://postimg.cc/gallery/mHSRXZv  https://postimg.cc/gallery/D4mMRfL
    • Different monitors do their test only under conditions specific to that monitor.  you MIGHT find the drive cycle conditions for the monitor that isn't ready on this site: https://lemon-manuals.la/   If it's not there, then it should be on alldata.com for your truck, but it requires a paid subscription.   And you need to know which specific monitor isn't ready.
    • from another thread   Update...although the truck sometimes seems to idle weird and the transmission shift a little weird, I've driven about 7,000  miles and no issues.   However, the way GM has handled my rental reimbursement, the situation when my truck quit, and the recall in general has led me to this point...I have driven a GM vehicle for the past 46 years and unless I buy a C3 Corvette, this is the last GM vehicle I will ever own. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...