Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

Along with having the entire truck covered with Dynamat, its sealed so tight that when I put the hvac on, your ears pop. The doors have 100% coverage on the outer shell and the inside shell. Floor, firewall, and roof completely covered. Its stupid quiet when the radio is off. Almost weird feeling. Even with the Borla ATAK exhaust.

20180602_172648.jpg

Edited by RACERX7775
Add more content.
  • Like 1
Posted

Forgot to say that the only reason i didnt put the tweets where you did was because i felt like there was to much seperation between the mids. This pic was before i installed the woofers.

20180630_093323.jpg

  • Like 1
Posted
Forgot to say that the only reason i didnt put the tweets where you did was because i felt like there was to much seperation between the mids. This pic was before i installed the woofers.
20180630_093323.thumb.jpg.890233ddbcdb208a85ccd0f5de7b13a8.jpg
So are your tweeters, mids, fd woofers running off one source signal (L or R) and "crossed over/tuned" 3x, or do the dash mids run the center channel mono source? What JL processor hub do you use?

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

Posted (edited)

The nav-tv unit takes the full range signal from the radio and sends it to the jl vxi hub. I think when you use the nav-tv unit, i think you loose fader. Then the hub distributes the full range signal to the amps. Then the amp inputs are programmed to each speaker position. So then you set crossover points, gain, and time for the specific speaker you assign to it. So, you really could have a woofer where the tweeter is. Its all settings. The amp does all the work.  Its like having a 30 band eq for each channel of the amp.

 

Im using all 8 channels.

2 front tweeters

2 front midranges

2 front woofers

2 rear door focal yellow components running passive

The 600/1 is running a shallow mount 12" jl sub.

 

Its all tuned via laptop and done wirelessly too. Check out the jl app. Called TUN.  Pronounced tune. They have a simulator to play with. It took a couple hours to set up all the speakers and hook up the rta to make sure there are no dead spots.

 

 

Check this out.

 

Watch "JL Audio Help Center - Parametric EQ Basics" on YouTube
https://youtu.be/IYqKFHehf9I

Edited by RACERX7775
  • Like 1
Posted

Damn. That's cool. I might need to get a Twk88 just to play around. Thanks for all the detail. Very nice setup you have.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

Posted

Thanks. Yeah. The settings are so detailed that i dont even know what some are. You would definately need an rta to show what frequencies you have, dont have, and when they come in and out.  You really appreciate your components when they are playing how they are meant to be played.

Posted
4 hours ago, RACERX7775 said:

Thanks. Yeah. The settings are so detailed that i dont even know what some are. You would definately need an rta to show what frequencies you have, dont have, and when they come in and out.  You really appreciate your components when they are playing how they are meant to be played.

I did my fair share of car stereo installs back in the day, some competition, some sound quality, but I would be completely lost today...The technology has come a loooong way. Awesome setup

  • Like 1
  • 3 years later...
Posted

Hey guys, can anyone give me some tips in fixing my problem. 

 

So I got a used 2014 silverado LT and front speaker went out along with dash speaker so I opened the dash and found 2 tweeters. Is there a specific speaker that I need to install?

 

Also I swapped the oem door speaker with jbl and there is no sound coming out.

20220224_071941.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Enjoy the new truck, it’s a beauty. I’m glad you’re keeping the OBS, I love those old trucks. 
    • With large equipment or deep mud it is more of a use the higher gear to avoid spinning tires, getting stuck because of spinning tires and doing damage to your machine. The idea is if you run out of torque before you spin tires you can still downshift for more torque. If you are just spinning your tires in the lowest available gear you are stuck and things break.   Automatic transmissions, traction control and electronic transfer cases change the calculation a little as you the driver have less control over each piece. 
    • are there any codes? with lots of rust, perhaps disconnect/clean both sides of the connection/examine cable ends (the wires) for corrosion going into the sheath & replace if necessary/reconnect ALL the power AND ground cables between the battery, engine, frame, cab, fuse box and starter charm.li (website) has a no-start diagnostic procedure you can work through to get it working.
    • Its no wonder you've gravitated to the oil types and brands you have in later years after trying certain brands and one being a specialty oil or at least very hard to come by up here and the other would have been a commonly found oil of the era and the vastly different outcomes as a result to using the vehicles in question the same distance for an OCI . It shows what marketing hype can do without actually having the product to back up the claims and that is no different now with the insane claims that are written on the side of a bottle of oil from some of the off the shelf oils.    What has surprised me and I was already finding this out before I bought my truck with the GDI engine, that this newer fancy technology that seemingly would suggest better fuel economy/emissions with this high pressure spray of fuel is not in reality kind at all to the engine or at least the oils life. Yet they insist on claiming long OCI with this technology just like they did with the port or similar type fuel injection systems when in reality its a step back in oil life to have a GDI system.    I think the mistake your making Grumpy is that your not sending your samples to Blackstone and getting the feel good glowing report that you can run it another 1000 or more miles and then send another sample where they say run it yet another 1000 miles and on and on it goes until your sending in something that looks a lot like road tar and then they may suggest you change your oil within the next 1000 miles 😆
    • I am guessing that engines of that design back then had a better ability to be abused and survive longer than a new design engine with the long timing chain and the overhead cams and phasers etc. But I would never guess that an engine could go that far and not fail spectacularly or at least die a slow death. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...