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Changing lift from 6" to 4"


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Currently running a BDS 6" suspension. I had planned to run 37s and still sort of want to but honestly at this point I feel that 35s are more than enough and the less of a jump into the cab wouldn't be terrible, same with 2" lower for bed access. (I'm only 30 but god I feel like I'm getting old)

Anyway, I had done a bunch of research prior to my lift install but apparently not enough. From what I'm reading the 6" BDS kit is same as their 4" with larger knuckles, so the diff drop remains the same, which means if I swapped to 4" I'd have better angles for longevity.

I'm imagining this will also help with the harsh ride a little since the axels will be level and it will be a tiny bit lower for the wind.

Curious to get some opinions. If I was going to start over again I'll be honest I wouldn't go with BDS as I'm not a huge fan of the track width widening out which makes parking lots a pain but I also feel like the cost to swap knuckles and a few other parts would be far cheaper than swapping to a different lift kit. Open to all sorts of feedback here. I'm planning on putting some money into the girl this summer as I just got her paid off. I'm wanting to keep her "forever" so that's a top of mind thing for me.

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I'm pretty sure the 4" kit and 6" kit use the same knuckles and crossmember. The difference in the front is length of the coilovers or strut extensions depending on which option you have. In the rear it would be just difference in block heigth or spring pack. I would call BDS and ask them. 

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3 minutes ago, SSchup said:

I'm pretty sure the 4" kit and 6" kit use the same knuckles and crossmember. The difference in the front is length of the coilovers or strut extensions depending on which option you have. In the rear it would be just difference in block heigth or spring pack. I would call BDS and ask them. 

You're dead on. I tried getting that info from BDS but they had me contact a installer. I was told I need new blocks for the rear, sway bar links and struts. Installed its $900-1000, 3-4 hours of work, which seems insane. Struts are max $300 for the pair, Sway bars are what $80? rear blocks like $60? I can't imagine it takes 4 hours to swap struts and such once it's on the lift.

Maybe I'm just too cheap, just very surprised by that. At that point I may as well swap in some better struts for a better ride, which means more.

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Currently running a BDS 6" suspension. I had planned to run 37s and still sort of want to but honestly at this point I feel that 35s are more than enough and the less of a jump into the cab wouldn't be terrible, same with 2" lower for bed access. (I'm only 30 but god I feel like I'm getting old)

Anyway, I had done a bunch of research prior to my lift install but apparently not enough. From what I'm reading the 6" BDS kit is same as their 4" with larger knuckles, so the diff drop remains the same, which means if I swapped to 4" I'd have better angles for longevity.

I'm imagining this will also help with the harsh ride a little since the axels will be level and it will be a tiny bit lower for the wind.

Curious to get some opinions. If I was going to start over again I'll be honest I wouldn't go with BDS as I'm not a huge fan of the track width widening out which makes parking lots a pain but I also feel like the cost to swap knuckles and a few other parts would be far cheaper than swapping to a different lift kit. Open to all sorts of feedback here. I'm planning on putting some money into the girl this summer as I just got her paid off. I'm wanting to keep her "forever" so that's a top of mind thing for me.


I’ve heard others complain about the track width freaking them out having to run spacers and ruining their turning radius. Wish you could join the Private and very selective CST Lift Club [emoji6]


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22 minutes ago, TXGREEK said:

 


I’ve heard others complain about the track width freaking them out having to run spacers and ruining their turning radius. Wish you could join the Private and very selective CST Lift Club emoji6.png


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I wish I was as happy as you are with your CST lift.  I much would of preferred if CST would have carried over there old 4" lift from the GM900 model trucks. Much simpler and less hacking of a new truck. The old 4" lift replaced the knuckles and upper control arms and didn't mess with the steering rack. It also kept track width due to there knuckle design.

My truck is going back in the shop tomorrow for steering issues, most likely from relocating the steering rack. :smash:

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56 minutes ago, Penguin VII said:

You're dead on. I tried getting that info from BDS but they had me contact a installer. I was told I need new blocks for the rear, sway bar links and struts. Installed its $900-1000, 3-4 hours of work, which seems insane. Struts are max $300 for the pair, Sway bars are what $80? rear blocks like $60? I can't imagine it takes 4 hours to swap struts and such once it's on the lift.

Maybe I'm just too cheap, just very surprised by that. At that point I may as well swap in some better struts for a better ride, which means more.

If I were you I would just buy the 4" Fox coilovers and a set of 3" rear blocks, sway bar links and install it yourself.

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I wish I was as happy as you are with your CST lift.  I much would of preferred if CST would have carried over there old 4" lift from the GM900 model trucks. Much simpler and less hacking of a new truck. The old 4" lift replaced the knuckles and upper control arms and didn't mess with the steering rack. It also kept track width due to there knuckle design.
My truck is going back in the shop tomorrow for steering issues, most likely from relocating the steering rack. :smash:


Sorry to hear you’ve got an issue, did you install it yourself? Had mine professionally installed, came with steering link extension accessories (forgot what it was exactly) and there was a notch that needed to grind down so it wouldn’t affect the steering link when turning. I’ve had mine in 4 months so far, loving it with zero issues. Im sure you’ll get it worked out so you can start enjoying it as much as I am.

Added note, A buddy of mine has a BDS lift with Fox Shocks, rides rough compared to mine with exact same tires and size, possibly cause I’m running smoother coil overs, don’t know.


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Did find one issue with the rear, seem the piggyback bracket is somehow getting whacked by the exhaust hanger. 98bec6b0580bffb0e5c3937754119edf.jpg
Must have happened when I took a big dip to fast, seemed very smooth at the time. Wondering if I should get larger rear shocks or 4” blocks instead of the current 3” with an add a leaf??? [emoji848]


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17 hours ago, TXGREEK said:

I’ve heard others complain about the track width freaking them out having to run spacers and ruining their turning radius.

I run the 4" BDS with 20" 35's and have no spacers and the only time I run into a turning radius issue is at full lock backing over a curb, so I don't do that often. I like the wider width, I think lifted trucks with their tires all tucked in look like a brisk fart would blow them over....

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I run the 4" BDS with 20" 35's and have no spacers and the only time I run into a turning radius issue is at full lock backing over a curb, so I don't do that often. I like the wider width, I think lifted trucks with their tires all tucked in look like a brisk fart would blow them over....


Lol, yes, I agree with a little bit of tire poking out but I’d rather have that option of controlling it with my option of wheel offset and not being forced to adapt. My CST lift doesn’t widen my track or turning radius but does have a small tire poke only because of my choice of +1 offset wheels. At any given time, I can change to more or less poke but again, up to me not being forced to adapt.


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I agree @TXGREEK I'd rather have the options. My installer claimed I couldn't fit 35s but BDS said I could (with the tire/wheel combo I'm using).

I'm still back and forth on it. I don't really want to spend 1k to drop it down 2" (seems silly) so perhaps I'll wait until I replace the struts and do it then, rather than doing it now. That way I can upgrade the struts for a more comfortable ride along with it.

So many things I could spend 1k on for the truck, not sure dropping 2" is worth it at this point.

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I agree [mention=186622]TXGREEK[/mention] I'd rather have the options. My installer claimed I couldn't fit 35s but BDS said I could (with the tire/wheel combo I'm using).

I'm still back and forth on it. I don't really want to spend 1k to drop it down 2" (seems silly) so perhaps I'll wait until I replace the struts and do it then, rather than doing it now. That way I can upgrade the struts for a more comfortable ride along with it.

So many things I could spend 1k on for the truck, not sure dropping 2" is worth it at this point.


Fully understand. IMHO, The suspension is the foundation, building blocks and when it comes to suspension, you get what you pay for. Adding extras to my truck would be an after thought.


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