Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

So we had some major rain Saturday as I was driving to work. Everything was normal on the drive in. After work, as I normally do, I remote started my truck, only to find out it hadn’t started. I started up my truck with no issues but the CEL was on.

DTCs P0098 P00F4 P2199 popped up on my diagnostics on my head unit (Alpine restyle).

For home, the truck seemed to run fine except when I parked on my inclined driveway started to idle funny.

Looked up the codes, they show to be for the air intake sensor/maf combo unit. Tore apart the intake, inspected the maf, no issues, water, etc found, everything looks clean. Looked at plug and wiring harness, no noteable issues found.

Upon further inspection, I found a plug hanging underneath on the drivers side at the frame right in the middle of the driver front and rear doors. It isn’t used bc it has a dummy cap but I’m assuming it’s for either transfer case or does fuel, neither of which I have. The sheathing has been pulled back and the cooper wire was showing on multiple wires. I fixed the wiring but still have the double codes. Ive reset through the head unit which I’m able to do with the Alpine as well as pulled the negative several times and the codes are still there. The only difference now is that the truck runs fine and doesn’t idle funny or stutter.

I’ve looked for schematics, etc and haven’t come up with much to help me troubleshoot. I have ordered a new air intake sensor, just in case, but I’m not sure that’s the issue.

 

Any help, advice, schematics would be greatly appreciated.IMG_3775.jpg

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • 4 months later...
Posted

Any info on this? Same deal here, heavy wet snow and rain. Same wire hanging for the fuel option. Wires shredded. Same codes 12 times. No command start , hanging idle, no cruze control. Dealer replaced wire/ pigtail. Codes still there. Same issues with no change. Going back in in a couple days for further inspection, and hopefully fix the issue. 

  • 7 months later...
  • 10 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,920
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Frank V
    Newest Member
    Frank V
    Joined
  • Who's Online   6 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,043 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Folks, Have a great new 2026 WT  (std cab, 2.7/4WD) w/base 40/20/40 mech adj bench "fake buckets"  (with lower and upper center console) heavy vinyl seats.  Overall the seats are very comfortable and the vinyl is heavy and appears less likely to 'split out'. Am very tall (6'5")  + a bad back/osteporosis/former hyperparathyroidism so ease/range of movement is a bit restricted.  The truck rides a bit high and I use a nerf step bar w/my left foot to step in, then I put right foot/leg in, drag my butt in  & get seated.  Worked fine in my 2018 RAM quadCab. But I end up dragging my butt over the left raised sidecushsion area of vinyl seat, and due to texture there's fair amount of traction on slide inward.  (ArmorAll didn't improve.) If the seat were even ~1/2" - 3/4" lower it'd be helpful, but base seats just have the forward/backward underseat bail and the side lever for tilt which really doesn't affect seat height.   I really don't want to 'de-puff' the left side sidecushion forming the  fake 'bucket'. I know one company sells 'seat elevator blocks':  but is there a simple way of lowering the height of the driver seat instead?   Thanks Bill W San Jose  
    • I have a basic 2026 1500 WT  (2.7L/4WD reg cab shorttbed). Comfy, generally happy with electronics/radio - but is there a way I can add switches to steering wheel right-side position (curr. empty) so I can adjust volume, push phone button to voice dial, etc? Bill W San Jose  
    • The curb weight on a 1 ton crew cab long bed is around 7k lbs.  Now, I don't know where you went to school but 9k is not more than 2x 7k lbs. More than 2x 7k lbs would be 14k+.   With that said, obviously yes you're going to feel a 9k lb trailer when slowing down.  I already said, when accelerating.  When changing lanes?  No.  But if you look at the context of what was quoted, the original person said, "after a mile or two..." which means that would be after the accelerating portion and you're driving a generally steady pace.  Please do learn to read and comprehend.
    • So I purchased the Range unit for my 2026 and I am seeing different locations suggested for the ECM . Can anyone confirm wither under hood, left side or right side or behind the wheelwell?
    • Like I've said before. Di and Carbon buildup is not that big of a concern. Engine had minimal buildup, and that engine was obviously not super well maintained. Do regular oil changes, and you're gtg as long as the rest of the truck lasts. Also, the High Pressure FP that people ****** about, but can't tell you why.  Now, I wish they'd trash the variable oil pump. No real world issues with them, but I'll gladly eat whatever miniscule MPG it's saving me in favor of more oil at all RPMs.    Curious to see his assessment of the 7.3 compared to the 6.6. I expect he'll praise the port inj, but from a structural standpoint, the 6.6 is as robust as any engine out there.    Not to take away from the 7.3. I feel it's equally as good as the 6.6.     As to heat on the rear cyls, I'd have to see numerous examples before I'd say it's an issue. Especially not knowing the history of that engine. For all is known, they could have blown a rad hose, and ran it hot, and the 2 rear cyls may be the first to get hot in a low coolant situation, but not be an issue aside from that. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...