Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Ok guys just looking for some info I’ve got a 2018 Sierra and am looking to swap the 4.3 for a 6.2. Not wanting to do any huge power upgrades just a stock 6.2 so I can still use it daily. Does anybody know if the transmission that came in the truck will work with the 6.2 or what am I really getting in to here?

Posted

This may be a stupid question, but wouldn’t it be easier, cheaper, faster, more safer, etc to just trade/sell the 4.3 and get a 6.2??

Trucks these days aren’t like the 80s where you just drop in another bigger engine and everything works. There’s too much electronics and wiring that would have to be altered.

Seems like a crazy task, but hey, more power to you.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

Probably sounds crazy lol I just prefer this body style and I already have the truck so the idea was bouncing around in my head on things I could do to it

Posted

Probably sounds crazy lol I just prefer this body style and I already have the truck so the idea was bouncing around in my head on things I could do to it

Posted (edited)

It can be done of course. But it will cost you more do it than it would to sell the truck and buy one with the engine you want. It sounds like the 6.2L will be available nearly across the board for the 2020 model year. If  you have a RCSB, I would hold out to see if you can get a 2020 RCSB with a 6.2L. Your not just swapping the engine, I would assume the ECM would need to be changed or at least reprogrammed. You might have to find a donor 2014 6.2L/6L80e TCM to control the transmission, as that was the only year you could get a 6.2L bolted to a 6L80e. If you can do the work yourself it is probably feasible, but if not you will have $15-20k into that swap by the time your done. And if you do go that route get and LT1 instead of the L86. My advise is keep it V6 and wait for GM to drop info on the 2020's, we will know more shortly. 

Edited by L86 All Terrain
Posted

I’ve done a few mods. A few years back I was getting ready to do a 2 door Tahoe. Beef up the trans stroke and S/C etc. My wife a smart chic suggested go through EBay. Long story short eight years later I’m still playing with the 92 I paid just 7500$ for. The truck has just over 100K miles. It has everything and then some of what I was going to go to the Tahoe, for a little more than the engine mods and S/C would have cost. All I’ve done is general maintenance. My point list and price you’re mods, the go on a site like EBay check out what’s there. I couldn’t have built the Tahoe for what a paid for a completed project.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted
It can be done of course. But it will cost you more do it than it would to sell the truck and buy one with the engine you want. It sounds like the 6.2L will be available nearly across the board for the 2020 model year. If  you have a RCSB, I would hold out to see if you can get a 2020 RCSB with a 6.2L. Your not just swapping the engine, I would assume the ECM would need to be changed or at least reprogrammed. You might have to find a donor 2014 6.2L/6L80e TCM to control the transmission, as that was the only year you could get a 6.2L bolted to a 6L80e. If you can do the work yourself it is probably feasible, but if not you will have $15-20k into that swap by the time your done. And if you do go that route get and LT1 instead of the L86. My advise is keep it V6 and wait for GM to drop info on the 2020's, we will know more shortly. 
Where did you read that the 6.2 will be available in the RCSB? I definitely want to read that, I've always hoped that we could the 6.2 in a regular cab.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

Posted
On 7/26/2019 at 9:05 PM, SirenRed16 said:

Where did you read that the 6.2 will be available in the RCSB? I definitely want to read that, I've always hoped that we could the 6.2 in a regular cab.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 

I wish that was true but GM will never do it because it makes to much sense. They wouldn't even make the 2000's SS trucks with the 6.0 in a regular cab. My buddy just bought a 2019 F150 reg cab 5.0 10 speed 3:73 gears and that thing rips.

  • 5 years later...
Posted

I have a 2014 Silverado with a 6.2L LT1 engine swap. It is not a cheap endeavor but it’s absolutely worth it. 
 

I blew the engine in 2021 (at 220K) and the engine went from mechanics and dealerships all over NC. Nobody could properly fix the issue so in 2024 after sitting for 3 years I decided to make it a beast as the body style is (in my opinion) the best. 
 

2015 C7 Corvette LT1 6.2L Engine with all accessories. ECM, ECU, exhaust manifolds, intake etc. 8k miles with a video of it operating as it should. EBay is the way to go and I found a recycling company that was cheaper and higher quality than most other vendors. I’d suggest looking there. The LT1 these days is cheaper than the L86.
$6500 for the motor with shipping from Florida to NC. Hit my loading dock in phenomenal shape 3 days later and I was ready to roll.

 

Took it to a reputable shop and in a week it was ready. Reused the L83 oil pan, exhaust manifolds and flex plate. Everything else bolted on without too much trouble. The cost was $7500 from the shop for the whole shabang including a base tune to get it running. I ended up in total at $14K for strictly the engine swap. Does not include the $500-$800 street tune that is necessary. I had other odds and ends replaced but they were unrelated to the engine swap. If you are trying to sort a budget I’d HIGHLY recommend pulling the old motor yourself, pulling the oil pan, exhaust manifolds, and flex plate to minimize costs. Bring the necessary parts in an organized fashion and bring the old engine too in the event something else has to swap over. It’ll save you well over $1000 and the mechanic won’t have to go to war with disconnecting all of the wires. 
 

after I drive 80k or so miles I’m going to pull it and rebuild for reliability and a little more power (DoD delete, link bar lifters, valve springs, cam etc) I hope this helps as there isn’t much online. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,813
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    520Zilla
    Newest Member
    520Zilla
    Joined
  • Who's Online   4 Members, 0 Anonymous, 506 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Hi all,   I just bought a 2021 suburban RST with 88,000 miles on it and everything has been good but I’ve been noticing within the last month or so that there are small electrical things going on and I know what the AGM batteries and all the electric electrical in these big trucks you need to have a constant flow with good voltage   That being said, I bought a new battery thinking that that might have something to do with it but today I went to get in and start it and it said no key found when I had the key right in my pocket   It also proceeded to flash the lights inside and outside for over 30 minutes as I went to disconnect the battery as soon as I touch the negative terminal, I heard the relay reset and everything come back up. I got in the truck and started it no problem.   Anyone else have this happen to them? I’m starting to think it’s the KARR system that the dealer installed short circuit stuff.
    • I don't drive this truck on a regular basis since I have a new company truck with no out of pocket fuel or maintenance cost. Yesterday I got it out to run some errands and got the title message on my DCI. A quick Google search suggested to first clean the Map Sensor. I pulled it out and it was sooty so cleaned it up and reinstalled it. Issue not resolved. My OBDII is a couple years old so didn't see any codes. Today I took it to a friend at AutoZone to get him to check it with his reader. It had the following codes: P20C3 P02BB P221F Stating the most likely solution is to replace diesel emission fluid (DEF) tank assembly.   So, I guess a trip to the dealer is necessary. I read where there was a backorder on these tank assemblies several years ago so hope that has been resolved.
    • Are you using a weight distribution hitch system with your trailer as that alone can change the actual tire pressure requirements needed. It would prove interesting to see what the actual individual axle weights are on your truck when you are hooked up to the trailer. In fact when your hooked to the trailer, typically if anything unless it has a large capacity weight distribution system that is over cranked, often the weight on the front axle will be less when hooked up vs driving empty and certainly if one doesn't have a weight distribution hitch. Really the only times one may get up there with weight on the steer axle is if there was a snow plow mounted on the front or a motorcycle on a rack or with a very large jockey tank full of fuel at the front of the box that transfers a bit of its weight to the front axle.    And of course your tires carry more weight for a given tire pressure due to their size vs a stock sized tire so there is that to take into the equation as well. 
    • Great info here thank you. I just joined, we have a 2014 Silverado truck we bought about 4 years ago with less than 5,000 miles on it. It has approximately 24,000 on it now. It appears to have all the standard issues that people are talking about. Occasional charging problems especially using 110 volt, occasional blinking triangle where nothing will turn on when first starting the truck but it will reset itself if you wait 10 to 15 minutes. Noisy coupler between the flywheel and the generator. Our truck is speed limited to 74 mph, is there any way to change that? The latest issue we have been dealing with is when driving long distance on the highway at full speed the generator does not keep the batteries charged. The meter will go into the yellow/red border Zone for charge status and the yellow triangle will illuminate solid but the generator will not keep the battery charged, not sure why the controller doesn't tell the gas engine to increase RPM to increase generator output it usually stays well below 25 kilowatts even though the battery is discharging and I have to slow down the highway to 45 mph and eventually pull over and let the truck idle to charge the battery so I can continue driving at speed. Has anyone had this issue before or have any idea how to diagnosed it? When via Motors was around it they were very helpful at troubleshooting. This becomes much if the Terrain is hilly and you're towing a small trailer
    • I have the GMC accessory (REV) cover installed by dealer. Ordered with the truck.  They did a very good install job, can't find a single issue. Some water gets in around the tailgate but no where else.  You can see daylight around the tailgate but that's not the covers fault.  Installation is means everything. Guys at my dealer were seasoned pros, not inexperienced here today good tomorrow types, like many dealers employ for these jobs.   I don't mind paying for a professional job.    
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...