Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
I run both diesels and gas truck engines.   I use Schaeffer in both.  I use Schaeffer 7000 15/40 CK4 in summer and 7000 10/30 CK4 in winter in my diesels.  My gas engines get Schaeffer 9000 5w30 year round.
 
I would have nothing against using Mobil/Delvac products if I wasn't using Schaeffer in my diesels.  For my gassers, probably one of the SOPUS/Shell products.  My wife 2006 Cadillac CTS 3.6, GM says it needs M1 5w30. I have used only Pennzoil Conventional 10w30 in it.  A look at the testing results done by the Petroleum Quality Institute of America shows why..... I have no clue what Shell is doing with that product, but it blew away M1 and it gives Amsoil 5w30 and 10w30 a run for its money.  It has a very heavy dose of molybdenum in it which is a very good thing, a great balance of Calcium and ZDDP complimented by Boron, and it has a NOACK level lower than M1 and close to Amsoil Signature.  And I can get this oil for $18 for 5qt jug at my local farm and home store.    Kinda knocks the argument that Group IV is the best argument on its ass.
 
http://www.pqiadata.org/Pennzoil10W30.html


It’s great that you’ve got your favorite oil pinned down and at such a great price. My favorite will always be Amsoil then Redline (which I haven’t used) for their added protective packages. Most people just get the cheapest oil meeting minimum requirements doing extended oil change intervals and later having issues, always pointing the finger at the manufacturers.




Sent from Above
Posted

Grumpy Bear, you think maybe I should use half Amsoil and the other half Redline?


Sent from Above

Posted

Does anyone have any input in the new Rotella 0w20 extreme protection full synthetic?

I’ve always used Rotella T6 in my diesels, any test results done by Blackstone or other testing?


Sent from Above

Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, TXGREEK said:

 


It’s great that you’ve got your favorite oil pinned down and at such a great price. My favorite will always be Amsoil then Redline (which I haven’t used) for their added protective packages. Most people just get the cheapest oil meeting minimum requirements doing extended oil change intervals and later having issues, always pointing the finger at the manufacturers.




Sent from Above

 

Agree.  But the cheapest in price is not always reflective the quality.  Periodic sales pricing confirms that. The best one can do is find a oil that fits within their comfort zone and they sleep well at night using. And pay as little as possible for it.   It takes a really lame modern oil of the proper spec to cause issues with an engine.  Even most of the store label oils are more than up to the task.  It is extremely rare that anyone has actual oil related issues.  Most times it is operator screw up that is the problem or poor OEM design. 

Edited by Cowpie
  • Like 1
Posted

Here’s a little video I dug up on the 0w20 Rotella





Sent from Above
Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, TXGREEK said:

 


Amsoil is up at group 4 and 5 being 100% synthetic/with added 100% synthetic additives. I’ve heard Schaefer makes a pretty good oil for HD’s. Blackstone Labs would be a great place to visit for 100% scientific results without the theories and she said he said.
 

 

I take a little exception to some of that.  Amsoil rarely uses any Group V.  They primarily use Group III and Group IV.   Also, I would love to see synthetic calcium, synthetic sodium, synthetic zinc, synthetic phosphorus, synthetic boron, synthetic molybdenum, etc.  I have never seen synthetic versions of these additives.   All of these a common additives in motor oils including Amsoil, Redline, and all the shelf and store brands.

Edited by Cowpie
Posted

Watch this video, Amsoil versus everyone else.





Sent from Above
Posted
Here we go






Sent from Above


After watching this test results, it’s garbage and shouldn’t be called extreme protection. It’s also going up against conventional oil not even full synthetic!


Sent from Above
Posted (edited)

And while Amsoil is a good product, it gets all of its base and and additives from the same places as everyone else. They get the majority of their Group IV from Mobil.  They get most of their add packs from Infineum (Shell) and Lubrizol (Berkshire Hathaway... you know,  Warren Buffet).  Much of their Group III base oil comes from Chevron and Shell.  Amsoil makes nothing. They are a blender, just like Warren Distribution, Schaeffer, and many other brands.

 

Amsoil does tweak the blend from the basic spec it is blending to meet, and that does lead to some better features in some of their products.  But Schaeffer, for one, also does similar.  

Edited by Cowpie
Posted (edited)
18 minutes ago, kwOH said:

What oil/filter does the dealer use?

Whatever meets the spec and they can source from the lowest cost supplier.  When my wife was buying her 2017 Equinox, I had a long chat with the dealership manager about this.  He knew I was in business and used a lot of various lube products and was wanting to find another source for his bulk oil.  I referred him to a couple of local distributors and told him to get some bids.  I have no  clue what he ended up going with.

 

Now, for vehicle models that have specific brand recommendations like Mobil 1, the dealer carries some of that.  And boy, do they charge a premium for it.  

 

I may have ragged on Amsoil, but I do use some of their niche products. Actually, I use about 5 different brands of lubes and oils.  I am not a loyalist to any one brand for everything.

Edited by Cowpie
Posted
And while Amsoil is a good product, it gets all of its base and and additives from the same places as everyone else. They get the majority of their Group IV from Mobil.  They get most of their add packs from Infineum (Shell) and Lubrizol (Berkshire Hathaway... you know,  Warren Buffet).  Much of their Group III base oil comes from Chevron and Shell.  Amsoil makes nothing. They are a blender, just like Warren Distribution, Schaeffer, and many other brands.
 
Amsoil does tweak the blend from the basic spec it is blending to meet, and that does lead to some better features in some of their products.  But Schaeffer, for one, also does similar.  


There’s a Blackstone Lab result that shews Amsoil and Redline were better than schaeffer, but it’s still good oil. I spoke with Amsoil direct, their Signature Series oil is 4and 5 not 3’s.


Sent from Above
Posted (edited)
19 minutes ago, TXGREEK said:

 


There’s a Blackstone Lab result that shews Amsoil and Redline were better than schaeffer, but it’s still good oil. I spoke with Amsoil direct, their Signature Series oil is 4and 5 not 3’s.


Sent from Above

 

 

Better in what way?   Just saying "better" doesn't quantify anything. It needs to be broken down and shown what aspects of the results are better.  Just having a lower NOACK for instance does not always equate to better real world results.  A valid comparison of results would show actual results from similar motors in similar situations.

 

Group IV has a limited ability to keep additives in suspension.  Group III has a far better ability in this regard.  Amsoil's OE line is all Group III.  Amsoil's XL is a blend of Group III and Group IV.   Amsoil's Signature, while primarily Group IV, has some group III to aid in keeping the add pack in suspension.   I have never seen a claim of using Group V in its Signature line.  And if they do, what is the Group V being used?  A Ester?  Polyalkalene Glycol (PAG), Polyester, or maybe a Biolube?   Some of these would not be advisable in a engine, but they are all Group V.   Maybe Amsoil has some Group V in some niche products like compressor oils and such

Edited by Cowpie
Posted

Asking which Group V is like asking which Group IV. The point would be pointless as the only ones that know are those that make it and those that for whatever reason have done ion chromatograms. There are a few published if you go looking for them. Shell Advance Ultra, 10W-40 for example is primarily Tetratriacontane C34H70.  A highly refined Group III. Long chain Alkane. Yea...fully synthetic...LOL  Source? Okay: 

 

Characterization of Thermal Stability of Synthetic and
Semi-Synthetic Engine Oils
Anand Kumar Tripathi 1 and Ravikrishnan Vinu

Department of Chemical Engineering, Indian Institute of Technology Madras,

 

 

Solubility is about polarity and as stated straight up POA's are highly unipolar. ALL of them. One could use any number of Diesters, Polyol-Esters or PAG's and yes Group III mineral oils and ALL of them have been used successfully and commercially. 

 

TX stated he spoke with AMSOIL direct and was told Group IV and Group V. He wasn't and won't be told exactly which ones. Badgering him won't produce a result you would believe anyway. 

 

Do you know which Group's Schiefer is made from?  Do you have the ion chromatograms?

 

He asked, they answered. Done deal. 

 

Could they have lied? Sure. Marketing is the business of lies artfully told.

So now what shall will we argue about? 

 

 

 

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,782
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    ShowMeShooter1332
    Newest Member
    ShowMeShooter1332
    Joined
  • Who's Online   3 Members, 0 Anonymous, 412 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I agree with Tim.  As tech heavy as engines are these days, no way I’d be an early buyer of the new 6.6.  Of course, I bought my ‘26 Denali w/the 6.2 after dumping my Tundra with it’s defective 3.5 liter imploding engine disaster, so I’m a little gun-shy.  That said, my 6.2 has been rock solid.  I don’t drive it like I do my BMW Z4 M40i, but I don’t baby it either.  I got a V8 for a reason.  But I’m averaging 18 around town and 22 highway.  I have seen 24 highway as well when I wasn’t loaded up heavy.  Considering my Tundra with the twin turbo V6 only got 14.5 in town and 17 on the road, I’ll take the 6.2 all day, every day.  If I were you, I’d grab a ‘26 while you can.  Inventories are probably gonna start dropping and I’ll bet the deals will start looking sweeter as well.
    • I am curious if anyone has figured out a way to add an hard button AUX or 360 Camera switch to the center row of switches. I have a 2021 AT4, and want to split the hill decent button and add a 360 camera button so that you don't have to go into the center display and locate the camera functionality, etc...   My father's 2024 Yukon XL AT4 and it has a hard button, see below. I found this thread on the Yukons, but it seems like there may not be a part number for the 2021 sierras. https://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/255339-adding-hard-button-for-camera-on-2021/ Anyone else figured this out. Seems like it would need to be a custom switch!   I am getting ready to install the auto stop/start eliminator, so would be nice to knock them out at once.     Upvote1Downvote0Go to comments
    • Looks like the entire state is burning. 😬
    • Through the years it hasn't been my typical method as I tried to drop oil on an engine that was hot from having been worked, however that was not always practical and had to fire up a unit and let it warm up reasonably well and drop the oil when I had the time to do it but am referring to not only vehicles but a variety of farm equipment and highway tractors etc. However on a vehicle where one is crawling under it and the exhaust is nearby to ones body and if wanting to pull the plug without danger of being hit with boiling hot oil or attempting to remove a HOT oil filter, its sure safer and easier to not have everything smoking hot and can remove the filter right away when under the vehicle and let it all drain. Of course its not the end of the world if a bit of oil stays in the engine that might have eventually found its way out, I like to get out as much as possible but any oil changes that take place in shops would rarely be sitting around for very long at all before the plug is thrown back in and filter slapped on and oil poured in and sent out the door quick like. There would be very little time spent ( assuming they even did it ) in starting the engine with oil to fill the filter, then waiting to verify the level on the stick. A good reason to check ones oil level shortly after a shop changed the oil on a vehicle just to make sure its correct and to look under for any oil around the drain plug or filter. 
    • Cool to see another Vermonter!
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...