Jump to content

Silverado Coilover install

gapple12

By gapple12
in Modifications & Accessories

Recommended Posts

ullose272 Enthusiast

ullose272

Posted
Posted
Is there a torque spec for putting the ball joint and tie rod back together ?
Probably, but pretty much as tight as you can get it with a wrench

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

Jacoby Enthusiast

Jacoby

Posted
Posted

I’d have RC adjust em for the lift you want. That’s unbelievable you can only adjust them off the truck. Coilovers should be able to be adjusted when they’re mounted up.  I’m a fan of RC as I have their 7” lift with their lifted struts and Vertex rear shocks. 

I was gonna pull the trigger on the Vertex coil overs but having to adjust them with coil compressors and what not is kind of disheartening 

 

there is no way you’ll get some spring compressors in there with the struts mounted up. 

gapple12 Enthusiast

gapple12

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Anyone know of a good coil-over spring compressor to use while on the truck or even when off the truck ?

gapple12 Enthusiast

gapple12

Posted
  • Author
Posted

So, I had a conversation with Rough Country yesterday on there recommended way to adjust these. They are saying you can easily adjust the coils while in the truck. Just lift the truck and take the load off the spring. After that you can loosen the jam nut and be able to turn the spring seat adjustment without removing the coil-over. This is only recommended for small adjustments. If you need to tighten the nut way further, then they recommend using a coil spring compressor tool. 

1SLOW1500 Senior Enthusiast

1SLOW1500

Posted
Posted

I have seen the aluminum nut get heavy damage as well as the threads on the collar by adjusting it on the truck. A single stainless washer protects the nut but the amount of preload on the threads will not change. I have seen over the years guys spray lubricants on threads even grease them. However this holds dirt and makes it even harder.
Trust me go more then you need not the bench and adjust later.
Some nuts are cut and have a screw to tighten them up as a 3rd mechanical lock and you make it easier to adjust. Maybe but I feel that is a bad design.
Get a air gun and the large outside mount spring compressor tools. Do both side slow and even.
I have broken a few sets of those. And when they let go you pray you hands are not in there.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

gapple12 Enthusiast

gapple12

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I'm still going to use a compression tool for sure. I dont want to chance messing up those threads. This is the one I am ordering. Seems simple enough and great reviews. Should fit right in front of coil. 

 

https://www.amazon.com/Goplus-Macpherson-Interchangable-Compressor-Extractor/dp/B017H1AWMK?ref_=Oct_RAsinC_Ajax_15709061_1&pf_rd_r=SS25V8AWZACQWHQ8ZS2R&pf_rd_p=f1b70a44-3b0c-52c7-8de1-b42379d13180&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-6&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_i=15709061&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER

 

1SLOW1500 Senior Enthusiast

1SLOW1500

Posted
Posted

That is over kill but will work

Auto parts stores will rent you a pair. Or under 30 you can buy them

 

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

 

 

 

 

Jacoby Enthusiast

Jacoby

Posted
Posted
On 9/24/2019 at 9:12 AM, gapple12 said:

I was told they are set for a 6" lift factory but can be adjusted up to a 8" if needed. 

 

7 hours ago, gapple12 said:

So, I had a conversation with Rough Country yesterday on there recommended way to adjust these. They are saying you can easily adjust the coils while in the truck. Just lift the truck and take the load off the spring. After that you can loosen the jam nut and be able to turn the spring seat adjustment without removing the coil-over. This is only recommended for small adjustments. If you need to tighten the nut way further, then they recommend using a coil spring compressor tool. 

This is good news. I could be mistaken but I think turning the spring adjuster counter clockwise is how you raise them. If that’s the case you Shouldn’t need to compress them as you’d be loosening it. I think you “tighten” the adjuster to lower it. A compressor would make sense then. 

  • 2 weeks later...
gapple12 Enthusiast

gapple12

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Got my coilovers installed, but as I figured I need another 1.5” of lift to be back where I was before with the strut spacer. When adjusting these, if I need 1.5” of lift, does that mean I need to adjust the spring nut down 1.5” lower or does it only need a few turns to make a big difference? I’m stuck in my garage right now trying to adjust these. I am using a spring compressor with taking the load off and have one turned about 1/2”. 

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • 81mmcat
      Higher oil pressure after DFM shut off

      By 81mmcat · Posted

      Can anyone explain why the oil pressure runs higher after the DFM is shut off?  just installed the Pulsar Lt.
    • fm2176
      New to Me 2010 SLE (Quirks, Issues)

      By fm2176 · Posted

      Thanks!  I figured as such; GM and other manufacturers have used standard parts and harnesses across trim levels and such for decades.  I pulled the blank accessory cover off of my commuter van (a 2016 or so Chevy 15-passenger) years ago and found the plug for a USB outlet.  It wasn't connected to anything, though (I tried swapping in an outlet from another van).  I was a GM Tech years ago (late-90s) and was pretty familiar with my 2006.  I might be wrong, but I view newer vehicles (pretty much anything made in the past 20 years) as being a lot more plug and play.  Meaning, more unused wires and plugs unless you have the Mack Daddy of vehicles.    
    • Coastie05
      It's Been a Long Time...

      By Coastie05 · Posted

      Welcome back!
    • davester
      New to Me 2010 SLE (Quirks, Issues)

      By davester · Posted

      not all plugs will be used.  gm uses more generic harnesses that support most/all options, and if your truck doesn't have a specfiic option, the plug won't be used (commonly will have a dummy insert in the plug , or it'll be taped up, but some may just be left as is).  But it's sldo possible some p.o. has installed the wrong/cheaper parts that aren't correct for your vehicle...
    • fm2176
      New to Me 2010 SLE (Quirks, Issues)

      By fm2176 · Posted

      First off, I'm not trying to just get easy advice/fixes for the issues I've noticed so far.  I'll be combing through the site via searches and such, and if past experiences are any indication, should find what I need.  For the sake of conversation, though, I figured I'd post the handful of things I've noticed in the 12 hours since buying my 2010 SLE CCSB.     Indicator lights: Airbag and TPMS.  The tire pressures aren't reading for any of the wheels, so I'm pretty certain the sensors were either removed, are damaged, or are otherwise inoperable.  I used to mount and balance tires 25 years ago but am pretty much ignorant when it comes to TPMS.  My 2006 didn't have the sensors and this might be the fourth vehicle I've owned that does.     Radio: Rear speakers aren't working.  I removed the driver's side rear door panel and checked the speaker and wiring.  I also removed the sill and b-pillar covers to check the wiring.  A few minutes of Google Fu showed that this is potentially a head unit issue.    Switches: Power mirrors don't turn left/right.  I ordered replacement driver's door switches that should arrive tomorrow.  The windows and locks work but it was only about $20 for all of them.  The driver's side rear window switch lets the window down but won't put it back up.  I think the passenger rear doesn't work at all.  In the coming days/weeks, I'll break out my multimeter to check all of that.   Unknown wiring harness: There's a box attached to the front driver's side of the engine compartment, right where the second battery shelf is located.  There are three plugs, one of which looks like it fits a standard headlight-style bulb (9007 or similar).  It doesn't look like it's plugged into anything.  I'll do some digging and if I don't see anything elsewhere on the site, post some pictures here.   Unknown plugs on brake booster: There are at least two female plugs on the brake booster that aren't being used.  I think it might be a replacement/aftermarket, so maybe those are used for a different application, as there don't seem to be any unplugged harnesses and no indicator lights are on.   Little squeaks when turning: Sounds almost like a bushing around the bed of the truck.  I'll have to pay close attention as I get more familiar with the truck.   Clunk on acceleration: possibly the infamous drivetrain clunk.  My 2006 had it and I'm just not familiar enough with this truck yet to fully grasp what it is.   Anyway, my apologies for the vague and all over the place post.  This truck is new to me, and it's been four years since I drove my 2006.  With 200k miles, I know I'll need to learn this truck quickly to avoid having any major issues, despite being confident it's got much more life to it.  My 2006 had nearly 320k on it when I parked it (nearly 300k of which I put on the truck), and it was still drivable then, though I suspected the head gasket might have blown.  I'd hoped to have that truck back by now, but it's gone forever, as I detailed in my reintroduction thread.  

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...