Jump to content

Upper Dash Rattle

Dugg

By Dugg
in Troubleshooting & Recalls

 Share

Recommended Posts

Dugg New Member

Dugg

Posted
Posted

2017 GMC Sierra SLT, 50K miles, great condition. Rattle just started. Appears to be coming from inside dash panel closet to window. 
It’s not the bolt behind driver knee panel. HELP be4 I go insane 

pgamboa Senior Enthusiast

pgamboa

Posted
Posted

Did you try removing the headlight switch trim and fuse panel cover? There are several 7mm Bolts there. Also, the cluster visor.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Dugg New Member

Dugg

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I’ll look into that. I swear it sounds like the dash vent panel near glass. I am about to take a sledge hammer to it. Thx, I’ll report back

dmastber New Member

dmastber

Posted
Posted

I had a sound similar and thought it was coming from the defrost vent, it sounded like a marble rolling around, it ended up being on of the screws that hold the overhead sunglasses had fallen out and was rolling around up there

 

dont know if that’s it but worth looking at

Dugg New Member

Dugg

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Checked inside dash and glass holder. Not yet but I had a friend say it sounded like MAYBE it was coming from just other side of engine firewall. 
I will have to dig around some more. 

  • 4 weeks later...
wgigs New Member

wgigs

Posted
Posted

Seems to be a common problem which gm/chef doesn’t want to address. I cringe as soon as the cooler weather comes and contracts the clips/ insert causing them to rattle. Try this :  

 

Dugg New Member

Dugg

Posted
  • Author
Posted
10 hours ago, NorEaster said:

I have the same problem, took the dash trim off where the heater vent is and nothing. Did the sunglass overhead solve it?

Nope. Next I plan to remove the forward dash panel - where defrost vents are. I’ve read/seen videos that show it is just clips but considering it’s a 2017 I’m apprehensive to attempt. It’s that or go insane over noise. Keep u posted

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...
NorEaster Enthusiast

NorEaster

Posted
Posted

I taped up my defrost vent clips which didn't solve it. Checked the sunglasses screws, nothing there. Tightened the knee bolster screws on the driver side, and checked the screws on in the glove box where they remove them to change the cabin filter. I still cannot figure out this rattle and it is driving me insane.

  • Like 1
  • 3 years later...
Hdwrguy Enthusiast

Hdwrguy

Posted
Posted

Remove the cover for the radio and you will see the two electronic boxes in there (one is the radio, not sure about the other one) and then you can see many 7mm screws.  Tighten them all.  Also get some foam and jam it under the electronic boxes so they do not move.  Also pull your instrument cluster where you can set it on your dash.  Tighten all of those 7mm bolts as well.  

 

Also, a footnote.  If your air inlet grille panel has loose rubber, it can tap on the windshield and it will drive you mad.  Buy and install a new one, problem solved.

  • 1 year later...
gl9191 New Member

gl9191

Posted
Posted (edited)
I found the noise. There’s a support bar that hovers over the battery from the firewall side to the right fender. The bolt for it on the farther side of the firewall was loose. I tightened it back after checking out another form with this issue and that took car of the rattle from the dash. so far no more noise/chirp. "Goes to show noise will transfer oddly thru the vehicle."
Edited by gl9191
missing text
  • Like 1
  • 1 year later...
Twobyfour New Member

Twobyfour

Posted
Posted
On 4/17/2025 at 1:37 AM, gl9191 said:
I found the noise. There’s a support bar that hovers over the battery from the firewall side to the right fender. The bolt for it on the farther side of the firewall was loose. I tightened it back after checking out another form with this issue and that took car of the rattle from the dash. so far no more noise/chirp. "Goes to show noise will transfer oddly thru the vehicle."

I created an account just to say thank you to this guy. Saved me from going insane and I never would have figured it out. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Chuck FB
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I am guessing that engines of that design back then had a better ability to be abused and survive longer than a new design engine with the long timing chain and the overhead cams and phasers etc. But I would never guess that an engine could go that far and not fail spectacularly or at least die a slow death. 
    • Grumpy Bear
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      In the 80's 90's I'd run Honda's 7,500 miles between changes using Red Line HP 5W20 and do it for hundreds of thousands of miles with issues. Back in the day it was an SAE 20 with the HTHS of a SAE 30 and SN add load. It was also very polar. Oxidation VOA was over 120. Besides those motors were SPFI and lean burn tech. I could have likely run it longer but never did.    We had a Toyota bought new I ran on Pennzoil's latest and greatest synthetic of the day with "Penthane". A made up word for a very low dose of PAO. Tried 7,500 mile OCI's in that Group III/VI chemistry and the rings tapped out at 90K. Rocker box wasn't as bad as the one Punch put up but it wasn't good either. Also a SPFI motor.    I'm around 3,750 across the board on these GDI monsters and the oil it tapped out by then usually on TBN/TAN crossover and color. Red Line HP Euro.    The AMSOIL SS brochures tell you to follow the OEM values for the service class but that it can be run up to 25K if monitored. I can't imagine what motor could go that distance and not tap out. I've never owned one.    Yes, I know. Lot's of people do. I'm just not going to be one of them. 
    • Grumpy Bear
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      I knew a guy in the early 80's that bought a new Monte Carlo and ran it a 100,000 miles without ever changing the filter or the oil. Just kept adding. It looked like that inside.     
    • whenindoubtuseahammer
      My First Project and GMC has me stumped

      By whenindoubtuseahammer · Posted

      Good evening. I was lucky enough to get passed down to me a 2007 GMC LBZ that was my great uncle's. While the underside and rockers are more or less gone I feel like with time I can restore it to working order since it only has 110,000 miles and he put nearly every option he could get without getting the new body style since he did not trust DEF. So far I have done everything I can think of but when I put the key into the ignition nothing happens. I put 2 brand new batteries in it. Cleaned the terminals. Check all the fuses and relays and they all pass with my multimeter. I know I'm missing something that I just cant think of. The only odd thing is the OBD2 port works which makes me think its not the mega fuse. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. 
    • PunchT37
      Casey from the Texas Hill Country

      By PunchT37 · Posted

      Looks nice. I still have my 2000, 1500. Bought a 2025, 1500 for retirement. Feels solid. These trucks have a bad rap on the internet. My brother has a `24 1500, 5.3 with 52,000 miles. No problems at all. Mine hasn`t either but mine`s only at 12,700 miles. Have seen some of these things with 100,000 miles with no problems.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...