Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
1 hour ago, txab said:

I would pay more attention to this suggestion.

 

Of course see what the manufacturer has to say. I've only ever had one booster go bad in all my years and never exhibiting itself in the manner you've described. 

 

You bought this truck used? Did the issue present itself in the same time frame that these boosters have failed?  I would make sure, if you haven't already, that I was getting the correct part #. IIRC, 3 different part #s for the new body style 2007 and don't forget about the 2007 "classic". As noted on a vacuum booster, engine oil would not be drawn into it, If there is fluid it would be brake fluid.

 

When this appears, does it do it every time your out for a drive? Does it when fluidi is cold or hot?

There is nothing in that suggestion that is valid in this case, sorry not being an ass but if ny of that was the problem it would be worse cold (?) and the problem would not go away when I remove the vacuum line. I am 70 and I have never had a bad booster and I have had many cars. I did buy it used but no problems for at least 5-6 months. It does do it every time I drive it unless it is a very short trip so yes, the fluid would be warm at least.

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

UPDATE:

I just got my brake issue taken care of, it was not the booster this time, it was the front brake chamber that was not letting fluid flow back in so once I drove it for more than a few minutes the brakes were dragging. This was a real pain getting it figured out and I was blaming the booster because it was doing almost the same thing it was doing with the bad booster. Thanks to all who replied, I appreciate it.

Posted

??? Is that in the ABS module? Never heard of a "front brake chamber", and I've been doing this a long time ...

 

Glad you got it fixed, anyway. :cheers:

Posted
14 minutes ago, Jsdirt said:

??? Is that in the ABS module? Never heard of a "front brake chamber", and I've been doing this a long time ...

 

Glad you got it fixed, anyway. :cheers:

He means the compensating port was covered and not allowing the brake fluid back into the master. Usually occurs when brake boosters are replaced and the adjustment is not made correctly.   Don't know for sure, but I think it was one of the suggestions made earlier.

  • Like 1
Posted

Ahh, gotcha. Thanks, Doug.

Posted
2 hours ago, Chuck Youngblood said:

UPDATE:

I just got my brake issue taken care of, it was not the booster this time, it was the front brake chamber that was not letting fluid flow back in so once I drove it for more than a few minutes the brakes were dragging. This was a real pain getting it figured out and I was blaming the booster because it was doing almost the same thing it was doing with the bad booster. Thanks to all who replied, I appreciate it.

So what was your fix? Replace MC or adjust booster travel?

Posted
6 hours ago, Jsdirt said:

??? Is that in the ABS module? Never heard of a "front brake chamber", and I've been doing this a long time ...

 

Glad you got it fixed, anyway. :cheers:

Sorry, I didn't know what else to call it.

Posted

No worries - I thought you were reading off your receipt. Was worried there for a second! ? 

  • 5 years later...
Posted

I got the same on my 2007 gmc sierra classic 2500.just pulled the booster, no leak.  Sometimes it happens regularly, other times day go by with no issue.  I actually carry a wrench and bleed pressure at the master.... can feel the truck roll free and I'm off again. Brakes come on with cruze on flat ground. Any new things I can look at. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Pretty much zero rust on the truck, the frame is super clean. Non-snowy area of California for its whole life. They didn't mention JB weld specifically, just a silicone style seal. 
    • Needs a manifold gauge hooked up and the pressures read.   If you don't have one, time to take it to a shop and have it diagnosed.  
    • How rusty is the truck?     The transfer cases on these are an aluminum case.  If its anything like the rear diffs on the 2015-2022 Chevy Trax, those will corrode bad to the point it will push fluid through the housing via corrosion porosity or a crack from age/stress.    We have seen folks over tighten the drain and fill plugs on these transfer cases and crack them that way as well.    So I'd say its a 50/50 shot on re-sealing the case.  If all of the surfaces are good and its not badly corroded, they probably can re-seal it.  GM uses RTV to seal the case halves.   If they mention JB Weld, the issue is the case.  Be it a crack or corrosion.  JB Weld "might" hold if they clean EVERYTHING very well and drain the fluid out of the case and clean the crack and then seal it.      
    • A while back, my truck (2018 GMC Sierra 1500 5.3) went in for an o2 sensor and routine service. The tech identified that my rear output seal on my transfer case was leaking, and recommended I have them replace it. At the time I didn't think anything of it, and had them do the repair. Less than a month later, I noticed that the recently repaired seal was leaking again. I called the shop that did the repair and they warrantied the repair and replaced the same seal again. A few months later, I noticed that once again the same seal leak had come back. It wasn't a great time to bring it in and I ended up just living with it for 6 months or so, noticing small (smaller than a baseball) size oil stains below the truck when it would sit for a while, as well as oil spray on the frame (to the point where it actually took the underbody coating off in that one spot). Finally got around to brining it in again, but this time I took it to a dealership service center since I am in a different part of the state for school. They identified the same output seal leaks and recommended they replace them. They also said there was no scoring on the inside of the transfer case, so it didn't need to be replaced. They chalked up the original repair failures to non oem seals and a job that wasn't done correctly. Now they called and said the seals are holding after driving/sitting for a while, but they found a very small leak in the middle, that they recommended they seal with some kind of silicone/jb weld (not sure what they are using). I haven't picked up the truck yet, but I have been reluctant about this whole repair process because I feel like they are just fixing the same thing that keeps coming back, and I am concerned there could be another root cause for the seal failing. Has anybody else experienced anything like this, or have any ideas on other things that could be the root cause?
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...