Jump to content

No Power Windows and Door Ajar Alarm

74Sprint17SierraATX
 Share

Recommended Posts

74Sprint17SierraATX Enthusiast

74Sprint17SierraATX

Posted
Posted

Hey all, please forgive of a repeat post, I am computer less right now and craptalk app is my only means of searching (absolutely horrible interface) and posting.

 

I have a 2017 Sierra and ran into an issue with my driverside door.

I currently have no control over my windows and the door alarm constantly says that the door is open.

The light for child door locks comes on when pushed but no light on the window locks.

All windows can be controlled on their individual door switches. I’m hoping this is just a dud fuse, but can’t seem to find which one it is, even after looking in the manual and online.

Any help would be appreciated, and if possible would love not to get wrecked at a dealership

 

Thanks

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

pgamboa Senior Enthusiast

pgamboa

Posted
Posted

Any work done in the driver door harnesses? Usually when power is lost to the driver side door, there is a window switch relearn. Did your cluster post a message that said “Open then close driver window?” This is the relearn step.

Also - then your door jamb connector. Unplug and inspect for corrosion between the two large pins. This is main + and - coming into the door.

I see this a lot on harnesses I get back.

Also, if work was done in the door, check the main connector for the driver window if this is loose, this can register the symptoms you described.

The fact that you can control the windows from their respective switch tells me this issue in driver door related.

Disregard the verbiage on the pic.

cb108c9774401aaeffc1ab54a8ce8201.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

74Sprint17SierraATX Enthusiast

74Sprint17SierraATX

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hey Phil, 

Thanks for the response.

No work has ever been done on the door, until now...
I found the issue... Pics attached...

Heres a question for you, If I add a little bit of wire to the green and yellow, will it mess with the operation. Obviously adding wiring will change the resistance of that wire. Ideally I would love to  add even just a half an inch to lessen the tension on that wire and prevent stretch.

Let me know what you think.

IMG_6025.jpg

IMG_6024.jpg

pgamboa Senior Enthusiast

pgamboa

Posted
Posted

You should be fine extending it. That wire is a LIN Bus wire which is responsible for the data side of the window operation and door unlock signals. Makes sense.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • 4 years later...
Lcharchun New Member

Lcharchun

Posted
Posted

Hi regarding the issue above with the master window controls not working and the door ajar sensor could you go into more detail of what the issue was. I am having the same problem.

  • 11 months later...
Gilbert Déry New Member

Gilbert Déry

Posted
Posted

I have the same issue on my 2016. None of the four doors switches works, and I have the dtiver door open signal.

 

I opened the door jamb rubber and found a green wire that got loose from the connector. The small pin at the end is not pinned in the connector. Can this be the problem? If so, id there a way to have the connector block out and put the wire in place? 

 

P.s. Tried to put it back in with a small plier but can’t be sure it’s good. When I start the truck it says open and close driver window but nothing happens as the switch doesn’t produce anything...

CameronMunro New Member

CameronMunro

Posted
Posted
5 hours ago, Gilbert Déry said:

I have the same issue on my 2016. None of the four doors switches works, and I have the dtiver door open signal.

 

I opened the door jamb rubber and found a green wire that got loose from the connector. The small pin at the end is not pinned in the connector. Can this be the problem? If so, id there a way to have the connector block out and put the wire in place? 

 

P.s. Tried to put it back in with a small plier but can’t be sure it’s good. When I start the truck it says open and close driver window but nothing happens as the switch doesn’t produce anything...

I read in another forum that this “Open/close” alert could be a Reset Sequence after you’ve resolved the issue. Forgive me, I don’t know anything more but maybe that will help you clear the fault. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Hoginedgewood
      MPG Surprise

      By Hoginedgewood · Posted

      That computer lies!
    • Tbhats2130
      2018 Silverado Console USB Port Not Working

      By Tbhats2130 · Posted

      My centre console USB ports haven’t been working and the one in the glovebox is starting to act up. When I plug my phone into the cord the radio will go black and stop playing, and the CarPlay is inconsistent.   I checked the fuses and they were fine. I changed the USB port out and still nothing. Hoping for some advice on what I should be looking at.  
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      The truck is a 1995 Chevrolet S10 Blazer, 4.3 VIN "W" engine. :cracks knuckles:   On a whim - because I needed a headache - this truck was for sale so I stopped to take a look. Doesn't run. Well, it does, but barely. Long crank, choppy idle, bad misfire(s), it REEKS of fuel. I can DO this..I'm thinking. Diamond in the rough. One owner until last year. A young guy is selling it, he bought it 6 months ago. It stranded him more than once, he's got a newborn. It was in the shop 10 days ago and he "thinks" they said it needs a new fuel injection system. He can't put any more money into it, needs it gone. I was thinking of upgrading my Macbook, which is a total want, not a need. For less than the price of a new laptop I can have fun for months tinkering on this truck and enjoying it. I'm taking this truck home. The guy was beyond thrilled, his wife was there, she thanked me profusely, I could tell they were hurting. They seemed like good people in a bind.   Some parts, a wash, maybe a set of tires, and I can have a few months of fun and then turn it for beer money (or the next project).   Sure enough, there's a work order from a shop last week in the INCHES of paperwork on this truck dating back to when the first owner bought it. They put a new distributor in it, fuel injection work describes basically opening the plenum and putting it back together. He said he couldn't afford any more work so he had them button it up and that's when he put it up for sale.   I'm not well versed in 4.3. I did discover 1995 uses the 1992-1995 SCPI "Spider" injector which is riddled with issues from splitting lines, clogged or cracked poppet valves and plastic spider legs that crumble over time. Cool. I'll just order me a ne---. Oh, the auto parts store doesn't have it? Rock Auto doesn't have it. eBay? $$$$$$ for used. These are UNAVAILABLE period end of story unless you know "a guy" who's still got one in a box somewhere.   Can't upgrade to the '96-'04 injector, it's a different plenum, wiring/pinout and sensor config.   There are a few kinda "know a guy" -guy rebuild services for these injectors out there for about $350. Okay, Okay... I'd like to know if anyone has used them? Anyone got a lead on these crappy 92-95 spiders?   I also don't want to send MY spider to Narnia and back without knowing if that's truly the problem. I guess I'll need to pull apart the plenum and do some digging.   I was also thrown for a loop. This 1995 model year truck has an OBD-II connector. The interface is decidedly not OBD-II. I can read and reset trouble codes and view live data, but there's not a lot of data. Like misfire count and on what cylinder, that's not there. It's OBD-1.5.   Nothing is ever easy. Now it makes sense why this guy wanted to disappear this thing for cheap. I'm guessing the shop told him the injector is toast, the part is unobtainable and they're not going to sort sending the thing to a rando offering rebuild service on craigslist, and the kid likely can't be without a working car for 3 weeks even if they'd facilitate that.   Experience with these early SCPI's? Stories? Things to check? Sympathy? (..Nah...)   This can sit until I sort it. But I haven't had a problem with a vehicle I couldn't easily solve in a long time.    
    • Grumpy Bear
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      I have four that read by the dash 8 to 10% better than miles/pump calculations and I have one that is spot on. 
    • Grumpy Bear
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      The average lifespan of automobiles on the road is increasing - here's why

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...