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Installed my first ever amplifier and sub!


bentarm13

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Installed my first system today. Went with a Blaupunkt combination 10" sub and amp. Fits perfectly under the rear crew cab seat. Wired the speakers directly to the stock head unit front L\R speakers, Used fuse 30 for remote on. Everything was a breeze except trying to get through the wiring boot. I cut a slit in the nipple on top and just spent about 10 minutes with a wire Hanger gently probing until that sucker went on through. Very happy with it, good bass inside without being a 48yo teenager shaking the cars next to me.

Posted

2014-2018 silverado amp subwoofer install

I’m gonna do a quick write up on my install. I am by no means a pro, this is what I did and I’m sharing my  experience.

Supplies:
Lockit posi-taps 22-20g 6pack

Posi-lock Connectors 14-16g 8 pack

Blaupunkt  GTHS131 10" subwoofer with 200 watt amp combo
25" speaker wire

Boss KIT2 8g Amp kit (be very careful, the power wire is literally 6" over for a crew cab from battery to the rear seat.) It does not have enough speaker wire to run 2 pair from the head unit to the rear seat.

Zip ties
 

My amp has hi-level inputs so I didn’t need a Low level converter 

I have always used the front door speakers for amp installs. They are full range while many times the rears, tweeters, etc are only given lows, mids or highs.
I tap into the fuse panel rather than splicing the antenna on.
Remove kick plates on both sides of the front of the truck, remove sill plates front\rear.

 
*Turn off radio, Disconnect negative, than positive battery cables. Remove battery cap

Speaker wires:

 

pull the trim piece (very carefully) from around head unit, there are plugs on the bottom that just press and remove.

remove the lower glove compartment 

remove head unit, 4 7mm bolts and gently pry out.

remove 3 plugs holding head unit to screen

-The upper large green plug is what we are working with..pull back the black tape at least 6". your gonna use the Blue\Brown-bluefor the Left speaker and Yellow\yellow-blackfor the right. I don’t believe +\- matter with an amp. Run 2 speaker wires (I had 2 different color speaker wires to run so it made remembering L\R easy) up from the glove compartment area, through the framing around the head unit and connect with posi-taps to the wiring. 
-Run both speaker wires under glove compartment and secure under R front kick plate. Carefully pry covers off the wiring channels and run wires,down Passengers side, gently pushing under the B pillar trim. Run under the rear plastic trim and pull wires behind rear seat to the amp. If you need to use a in-line converter this would be a good place to do  it, lots of room. 

 

Power wire, remote on:

Tie 8g wire near battery making sure to leave 8-10" extra

run along back of engine compartment securing to wiring bundle that already exists with zip ties.

Cut a hole in the nipple on top of the rubber boot to the upper right of the steering linkage. Take a wire hanger, dull the poking end. Gently start probing your way through the interior wiring. It will take time but if you keep gently pushing and moving it around you will eventually break on through to the other side behind the large plastic box in the  footwell. I tape a left over speaker wire to the hanger and slowly fish it through. Then I join the 8g and speaker together, easier for me than trying to force the 8g, hanger and wad of tape through a very small hole.

Secure 8g under footwell behind kick plate
I used a fuse tap for remote on *fuse 30 and 32 come on with key*. Secure wire near fuse panel and in footwell.

Carefully pry covers off wiring channels and run wires down drivers side, gently pushing under the B post pillar. Gently push under under the rear trim and pull up behind seats.
 

remove 18mm nut under rear seat behind the jack tools, sand paint around the bolt and use this for the ground. 
Hook up your power, remote on and ground.

Hook up 4 speaker wires to amp.

Hook up the remote control if you want it, I didn’t 

I have the under seat storage from Doha and my system fit perfectly in the center.

Install fuse In fuse panel, making sure wiring is secure

Cut 8-10" of 8g at the battery. Install in-line fuse and grommet. I hooked into the 2nd from the front positive post on the side. There are already wires hooked up to this post. Secure the fuse, I mounted to the plastic at the back of engine compartment 

Connect + then - cables.

Check amp and make sure it is NOT on. 
Turn the key to acc, the amp should now have power. 
Start putting your dash back together. At this point you should be able to check out your system. Put the truck back together, make sure no wires are pinched or exposed.
Finally I used some JB Weld liquid around the cut in the rubber boot.
Hopefully all went well and you are now the coolest dad in the Lowe’s parking lot!

 

 

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