Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

So I want to switch out my stock muffler 2020 6.2 , leaving everything else stock ,after much searching sounds like a magnaflow 12919 or a dynamax non chambered muffler will give me the deep sound I want, but flapper on or off is undecided because of no clear info on drone. I don't wanr drone, so if I delete flappers and get it I have to put back in. is there anyone who has found a way to keep them open all the time? and then have them be closed back stock if need be? Also im unclear as to what type resonators my truck has, ive heard something about mesh? Im somewhat handicapped and haven't been able to get under truck to inspect for myself. thanks for any input on any of this...

Posted

I have a new Trail Boss 5.3L and cut out the muffler and the flapper valve and had a muffler shop weld in a pipe in their place.  Sounds great.  There is no resonator, just the mesh things which I can't figure out how they work or what they do.  It sounds awesome and no drone on the interstate so far.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

From what I've seen it's tough to get lots of sound out of these new trucks, I swapped a Carven TR series in (Moderate sound level muffler) and it was extremely quiet.  I taped over the rear mesh screens and it helped quite a bit, there's 3 mesh screens at the end of each tail pipe.  My guess is that it just disperses the exhaust in sections to help quiet it down since there's no restriction within the pipes.  But it drones bad from 100-110km.  A friend of mine (Same truck, 5.3 with the 8 speed) put the carven R series in (Race muffler) and it sounds 100x better than mine but it drones terrible as well.  

 

Magnaflow is definitely on the quiet side but it's worth trying to see if you like it.  It'll give you a low tone/rumble, especially if you leave the rear mesh screens alone.  If you have the $ look into corsa.  I've ran every muffler under the sun on my gas trucks and its the only muffler that has ZERO drone, it sounds completely stock on the highway.  But just as loud if not louder than any race muffler from the outside, there's a lot of design and technology in that muffler.  

 

For the flappers I'd get them cut out, you can pin them open if you want but I don't think they have much effect on the sound level.  If you do a muffler swap and leave the mesh screens alone along with the flapper it'll sound 100% stock in cab. 

 

Posted
16 hours ago, 19AT4 said:

From what I've seen it's tough to get lots of sound out of these new trucks, I swapped a Carven TR series in (Moderate sound level muffler) and it was extremely quiet.  I taped over the rear mesh screens and it helped quite a bit, there's 3 mesh screens at the end of each tail pipe.  My guess is that it just disperses the exhaust in sections to help quiet it down since there's no restriction within the pipes.  But it drones bad from 100-110km.  A friend of mine (Same truck, 5.3 with the 8 speed) put the carven R series in (Race muffler) and it sounds 100x better than mine but it drones terrible as well.  

 

Magnaflow is definitely on the quiet side but it's worth trying to see if you like it.  It'll give you a low tone/rumble, especially if you leave the rear mesh screens alone.  If you have the $ look into corsa.  I've ran every muffler under the sun on my gas trucks and its the only muffler that has ZERO drone, it sounds completely stock on the highway.  But just as loud if not louder than any race muffler from the outside, there's a lot of design and technology in that muffler.  

 

For the flappers I'd get them cut out, you can pin them open if you want but I don't think they have much effect on the sound level.  If you do a muffler swap and leave the mesh screens alone along with the flapper it'll sound 100% stock in cab. 

 

I have been wondering about that. I put the Gibson cat back on and there is a little drone in the 40-50 MPH zone but other then that none really. So I was wondering if I have those big "screen" things welded back into place, if that 40-50 MPH drone would also all but disappear..?? Thoughts? I kept them just incase. It would be super easy for a shop to do I would think as they are right where the rear hangers are located, just cut the pipes in the same location and weld back in..

Posted
20 minutes ago, michael betz said:

Cut out flapper , muffler , and those stupid resonator screens and replaced with stainless steel and borla atak. 

20191228_134721.jpg

What on earth is that thing? I thought the "screen" people were talking about were right before the piping goes into the bumper?? like this...

2019-Chevrolet-Silverado-1500-High-Country-Exhaust-System-2018-Detroit-Auto-Show-002.jpg

Posted
3 minutes ago, Jay P said:

Those screen things are only on the 5.3l. The 6.2l has real resonators.

 

Jay

Copy

Posted
1 hour ago, Jay P said:

Those screen things are only on the 5.3l. The 6.2l has real resonators.

 

Jay

So since I do have the 6.2l, chances are if I do have those reattached 90-99% of the drone I do have should go away right?? 

Posted
1 hour ago, SquireSCA said:

Those screen resonators, as silly as they look, actually work.  

So what your saying, is if I get these  put back on there is a good chance the 40-50 MPH "helicopter" sound will all but go away?

 

Inkedresonator_LI2.jpg

Posted

Well, I have the 5.3 and it doesn't have resonator chambers like your pic shows... Mine has those square screens welded into the sides of the pipes...  I get droning when I cover them.  I don't get a helicopter sound because my motor has DFM rather than AFM...

Posted
2 minutes ago, SquireSCA said:

Well, I have the 5.3 and it doesn't have resonator chambers like your pic shows... Mine has those square screens welded into the sides of the pipes...  I get droning when I cover them.  I don't get a helicopter sound because my motor has DFM rather than AFM...

I have the DFM too, and the heli sound come from when goes to two or less cylinders. Anybody have any input on getting these put back on?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,965
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    DaleB
    Newest Member
    DaleB
    Joined
  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,153 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Common Sense Assembly   Your driveline is forgiving of the occasional mistake. It will even often forgive the random serious blunder. But it will not forgive a continuous bad habit.      What? Not everything needs to be a five thousand word essay.       
    • We drove about 15 minute east today to visit a friend and saw a steep increase in price in the same county. About 50 cents a gallon steepper. 
    • Sure about that? A degree wheel and a dial indicator would lower your degree of assurance in that statement. 😉    It why we have offset keys and dialable timing sprockets. Just say'n.... I've built a few and have never seen one "On the money". 
    • I will admit I haven't experimented much with pressure drops beyond the numbers I put in and part of that is that the numbers I used are fairly low and then found out it would trigger regardless at that 35 psi. Having said that I had tried before had changed the placard pressures and being that I have a 1 ton set to 80 on the placard for the rear I believe it triggered close to 60, the front I don't recall now for sure but thought maybe it could get close to 45 from that factory 60 placard pressure. So I never did figure out if it was a number of psi from placard pressure to the alarm or a percentage of the total placard number as some figured it was like a 25% drop from placard pressure would trigger it. So as to try and answer your question, I believe I set the placard pressure on the front to 47 or so and while I run the front tires at 40, they have dipped below that some if its colder and I haven't put "winter air" in yet and never once have had the front alarm go off. I would say that the answer your looking for is no, that if you set your placard pressure to 45, you have a certain amount of room to drop below that pressure before the alarm will go off.    The pressures you decide to run in your truck, that ends up being what makes sense to you based on what your carrying in your truck or if towing, then have to bump them back up to something that will carry the load in the rear and the fronts typically left at the same pressure. It all comes down to that chart I put the link to and using an accurate roadside scale to be your guide, both unloaded and then loaded to know your minimum safe pressures.    I just wish GM would allow a person to change the readings for the tire pressures to the English system of pounds as I have to look at that goofy metric reading that will never ever jive in my head and will go over and change it just to figure out what they are if need be and then change it back. 
    • That part I understand, that the dealer can do it. But I'm not understanding why updates that were available to the truck since it left the factory, or the dealership originally, would not still be available to it without dealer intervention.   I'm thinking along the lines of recalls. They stay available until they are completed, regardless of whether they are in warranty or not, or in the hands of the original owner or not. Why not updates as well, especially since some of those can be safety related also?
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...