Jump to content

Rear Window Defroster now being fixed under recall in US

TTT
 Share

Recommended Posts

TTT New Member

TTT

Posted
Posted

I just brought my 15 Silverado last week in for the Brake recall issue and whilst i was there I was informed there is a recall on the rear defroster, their paperwork notes changed electrical contacts, not very descriptive I know, anyhow the next day I got a letter from GM regarding the issue was under recall. So for anyone interested in it this is some news for you. Not sure if its only trucks w/ the rear defrost and power slider or any truck with a rear defroster.

2017_LTZ Enthusiast

2017_LTZ

Posted
Posted

I'm curious to see if it will be the same as the Canadian recall.

If so, that means another trip to the dealer this year..... Yey.... 

Texas_Native Enthusiast

Texas_Native

Posted
Posted

I am curious as well. Kid you not yesterday morning I heard mine making an odd sizzling/hissing noise.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Dark side of the moon Enthusiast

Dark side of the moon

Posted
Posted

Wow, I was just posting my experience, 

 

2017 GMC Sierra truck window shattering, software or hardware issue?

 

One crappy day, On March 5 2020 morning I remote started my truck and about 10 minutes of warm-up and 2 minutes of drive. Pulled in friends driveway and bang, back right rear sliding window shattered. Glass mostly spidered but blew out over Tonnele cover and ground. My first thought is holy shit, wtf. Not knowing what happened if somebody threw something at me or got hit with a pellet gun, had no idea. Wasn't happy. So I called my insurance company having glass coverage with 0 deductible and was set up with a appointment that afternoon. when I went back home I did some research online and found that Canadian built GM's had a recalls and some local US built vehicles had also complained about the rear sliding window with defrost. Again not knowing how this happened thinking this just could've been a random failure or accident. So I call my local GM representative and provide him with proper information and ask is there a recall on my specific vehicle. Yes for a block heater cord but nothing for rear window but stated I was not the first. I already know about cord, so I asked to file a report of my incident about the window and he said General motors will look at these reports and depending on how many they get will decide if this is a campaign or recall. I have a case number. Also told me since my vehicle was still under warranty to have it done at local dealer. Ok thank you, Contacted my local GMC dealer to get window replaced, I was asked my information, knowing I'm not in their system because I did not Purchase or have them service this vehicle. I got it 2 months ago. I was told they can look and evaluate it and then have to get approval from GM and then schedule an appointment.  When?  We can look at it this afternoon or tomorrow morning but the glass won't be replaced until mid next week OK looks like you're busy thank you very much. So having zero cost and getting it done today I went to my afternoon appointment, when the local glass company removed my rear window I was curious and asked to take photos of it I visually see the contacts from the rear sliding window to the window grid was discolored and the plastic was melted. Took many photos. In my personal opinion this connection overheated I believe shattered the glass? Took about two hours because you have to remove part of the backseat to get two connections for sliding window motor and defrost grid, replaced with OEM glass. Thank you, glass company for doing professional job especially on a black vehicle, job well done, happy guy. So I come back home call my local GM representative again to give them personal additional information for my report and stating I'm not happy this could've been a fire and destroyed this vehicle or injured someone sitting in that backseat when glass shattered. So is this just a random issue or should it in the future there be a campaign or recall.?  So here's my unprofessional thoughts if this happened to you and you want disable rear defrost and still have the function of your remote control. This is only an issue when you remote start your vehicle and may prevent this issue to happen to your vehicle. I'd rather have my remote control features then rear defrost. By looking at some of the resources and schematics I think is when you remotely start your vehicle in short, the HVAC module looks at outside and inside temperature/humidity sensors and at start up choose climate control i.e. seats, F/R defrost,mirrors as a default to turn on at temperature XX degrees to Pre cool or heat. All these features are in remote start or climate control in settings there are options to turn on and off these features, I have set rear window defrost under climate control to off. Does not work. Tested and verified with temp meter, rear defrost indicator light does not Luminate when remote control start is used until key is in on position. Grid still gets hot. fix and possible prevention, since the rear window defrost and heated side view mirrors share the same switch and use the same circuit relay under the engine compartment and splits into a 15 amp for the heated mirrors and a 30 amp for rear defrost, remove 30amp only. Everything still operates as normal using the remote control, heated mirrors will go on and inside temperatures will be set, but will turn off when key to on position. When and if you need heated side view mirrors just press rear window defrost button, will illuminate and function heat mirrors only, no rear window defrost. Who needs rear defrost anyway but I can just put the fuse back in and take my chances of shatter window. So back to the beginning is a software fix or parts/hardware ( vehicles w/Heated Rear Sliding Window ) issue and may need to addressed or I just had one unlucky day. If you read this this far thanks for listening and this may prevent someone from injury or save you $600 to $800 for window replacement. easy prevention if it becomes an issue in the future

IMG_3479.JPG

Dark side of the moon Enthusiast

Dark side of the moon

Posted
Posted

 Senior dude,  thank you for your interest in my post.  Wouldn't have made any difference if I told you I'm handicap and I use a speech recognition software to write my words. What's next spellcheck. 

 Stick to the topic thanks my friend 

dieselfan1 Senior Enthusiast

dieselfan1

Posted
Posted (edited)

Thanks for the novel. This is old news.

This has been a US recall since January. 

You could have taken it to your dealer and had them replace it. They should have fixed it but said they weren't aware of a recall. B.S. go to another dealer.

 

Edited by dieselfan1
Dark side of the moon Enthusiast

Dark side of the moon

Posted
Posted

Thanks, your right about dealer bs because I never used them before but two different gm reps just took my information and said nothing about recall. This was two days ago. Had insurance and truck will not fit in garage, that’s why I had glass company get it done the same day, like I stated I just got this truck in first week January and my window Shattered two days ago. This issue is the first I heard of it. Could anybody please forward information about Rear sliding heated window recall. Thanks in advance 

 

I may have to replace it again if  oem replaced window is on defective list. Great.

dieselfan1 Senior Enthusiast

dieselfan1

Posted
Posted
4 hours ago, Dark side of the moon said:

Thanks, your right about dealer bs because I never used them before but two different gm reps just took my information and said nothing about recall. This was two days ago. Had insurance and truck will not fit in garage, that’s why I had glass company get it done the same day, like I stated I just got this truck in first week January and my window Shattered two days ago. This issue is the first I heard of it. Could anybody please forward information about Rear sliding heated window recall. Thanks in advance 

 

I may have to replace it again if  oem replaced window is on defective list. Great.

Here you go. Got mine done two weeks ago. Never used slider never had an issue.

Screenshot_20200307-221952.png

Screenshot_20200307-222011.png

davester Senior Enthusiast

davester

Posted
Posted
10 hours ago, Dark side of the moon said:

 Senior dude,  thank you for your interest in my post.  Wouldn't have made any difference if I told you I'm handicap and I use a speech recognition software to write my words. What's next spellcheck. 

 Stick to the topic thanks my friend 

Well, you can moan about it, but presumably you want some help.  A humongous block of text like what you wrote sucks to read, and lots of people will just skip it.

 

And yes, spelling, punctuation and grammar also make a difference.  If someone reading your post has difficulty trying to figure out what you are trying to get across, again, most people will just skip it rather than spending a couple minutes trying to figure out what you wrote.

 

Of course, you can continue to post your 2000 word diatribes as a huge block of text, and perhaps someone will figure out what your problem is, but there aren't a lot of those people around.  I'm simply trying to enable you to get the help that you need.

Dark side of the moon Enthusiast

Dark side of the moon

Posted
Posted

 Thank you very much sir and yes you're right I am looking for help. 

 

 I am new to this forum and I was just looking for some real informative answers,  not necessarily criticized for my words but I do thank you for your help 

Dark side of the moon Enthusiast

Dark side of the moon

Posted
Posted

 Dieselfan1, 

 

 Thank you very much for reading my post and providing the proper information for this recall.  Again thank you, 

 

 I hope this information is helpful to old and new members who may need this to make our family vehicles safe and secure for the road,  safe travels my friend. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      So, do I go elbow-deep on this thing or list it for sale and play dumb? Seems to "runs good."   I'm about $1200 away from having: -a rebuilt injector ($300) -a new cat ($250) -a new cat back exhaust (OE style) ($300) -a new AC compressor ($200) -AC refrigerant charge ($150)   In theory, this should rectify the obvious detracting issues from its value and operability. Cold AC with a non-squeaking AC pulley both sounds and feels good. An exhaust that isn't cut/hacked in 17 different places and doesn't vibrate on a crossmember would make it sound and feel less janky. A working cat would help the stink, and will save the earth, but *if and only if* the fuel system is working properly, which would also address the intermittent "rich" CEL.   Heard a good one... CEL for "Rich condition" means you haven't spent enough money on the truck lately, and it's letting you know.   Rebuilding the injector would seem to be the most important part. Replacing the cat would be secondary. I don't think mine is plugged or overly restricted, but it might be a little restricted? I have no good way to tell other than seat of the pants feel. I hate the smell.   The current theory is I have a rich idle problem: A bad fuel pressure regulator, or a leaking injector(s) being the highest probabilities. I already replaced the FPR but that doesn't mean its replacement isn't also bad. It was a new part from Dorman, but the packaging looked like it had been sitting on a shelf for 20 years.   This is the (single) upstream O2 sensor shown at idle. I'm getting a lot of "rich" it seems. Sometimes it stays high like that and doesn't drop down. That makes me think it's processing injector leaks or a partially stuck open injector.     Other times it looks like this. Nice oscillations between rich and lean, which is what I think it should be. Under load and at speed, the oscillations are nice and tight and uniform looking, high and low.     Fuel trims suggest the PCM is compensating pretty hard at idle to pull fuel out. But it's not enough to trip a CEL. Something about slowing to a stop: brake vaccum booster, EGR, or the EVAP purge is delayed, or there's pooled fuel in the intake again that's draining into a cylinder is enough to set the CEL. Of course, in two days of driving, it hasn't set. I was hoping to actually look at the freeze-frame data when it sets. IAT is high because it's idling on an 83 degree day here.  
    • Another JR
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By Another JR · Posted

      Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • newdude
      Gas fill door

      By newdude · Posted

      Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • newdude
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By newdude · Posted

      No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...