Jump to content

Fog/driving light bulb replacement


Recommended Posts

Posted

Has anyone changed a bulb for the driving lights on 19 gmc sierra 2500. 

I'm hoping someone has done it with out taking the bumper off ? I didn't even bither looking at the right side. 

Thanks for any help you can provide.

Posted

Fog light bulbs can be replaced without bumper removal. From the back side of each light housing, simply twist out the factory bulb socket and swap the bulb with your desired replacement. You may consider removing the small bumper support behind each fog light to make a little more room for your hand...it is a little tight in there.

 

I replaced my stock fog light bulbs with Xenon Depot Xtreme LED CMB Bulbs. A set of 2 was about $50.00. These provided much more crisper light output that you could actually tell were on. I am very happy with these. I couldn't even tell if the stock fog lights were on or off...  

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
Fog light bulbs can be replaced without bumper removal. From the back side of each light housing, simply twist out the factory bulb socket and swap the bulb with your desired replacement. You may consider removing the small bumper support behind each fog light to make a little more room for your hand...it is a little tight in there.
 
I replaced my stock fog light bulbs with Xenon Depot Xtreme LED CMB Bulbs. A set of 2 was about $50.00. These provided much more crisper light output that you could actually tell were on. I am very happy with these. I couldn't even tell if the stock fog lights were on or off...  
Dude.... If you got your hands in there and managed to change the bulb.... You have the hands of a child.

There is no way I can get it done, spent hours trying. My understanding is it can be done if you remove the wheel liner, I'll see this summer

Sent from my SM-N975W using Tapatalk

Posted

Now, I didn't say it was simple to get the rear of the factory fog lights, it was just simple to twist out the bulb housing turning it a quarter turn once I got to it. Believe me, this is much easier than removing the wheel liner. I started with this option first as I read a thread (can't remember if it was this forum or Duramax Diesel) as that's what the consensus was stating at that time too. After removing all the wheel liner screws and plastic fender molding screws (the wheel liner is tucked under), it still wouldn't budge. If my memory is correct (this was a few years ago), the fender molding is held on with 3M tape also that needs to be replaced once removed. Or some type of fastener that you have break (and replace) in order to fully remove it correctly. Somebody then posted they where able change the bulbs from the backside without removing the liner. I, like you tried, and figured, there is no way to get your hands in there (by the way,  I don't have child hands). I put everything away and figured I'd tackle it another day. One day, after a few beers, I saw the bulbs on the workbench, and went for round 2. Maybe the blue mountains on the ice cold beer cans shrunk my hands a little, I don't know, but I was able to get my hands up in there. It was tight. I think I removed a few screws from the front side of the liner to allow it flex back a little to create a little more room, but you definitely have to remove the small approx 10" diagonal bumper brace behind each light housing (again, going off memory on the size of that brace). I did this all from the ground...no jack used...all done by feel to get the bulb socket to turn the quarter turn for removal... 

Again, in the multiple opinions from that previous thread, this is much easier than removing the liner...

Have some beers and give it another try... 

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Any update if the new valve cover help with the oil consumption?  I have a 2014 GMC sierra and my truck is consuming a lot of oil so I’m wondering if replacing the driver side valve cover will stop some of the oil consumption. Thanks 
    • I bought belts and pulleys for my '20 L5P at Rock Auto a couple years ago. I have used them for many years, and almost always save significant money, especially when I buy maintenance stuff ahead of time.   They carry many OEM parts, which is all I use unless an aftermarket is shown to be same/superior, or if it is an insignificant part or unavailable OEM part anywhere else. RA is usually lower priced, often by a bunch, but parts are sometimes unavailable or out of stock, and I do shop around and sometimes find better prices at other sites.   Be aware that you pay shipping, and if you buy multiple items and they are coming from different warehouses, the shipping can kill the advantage. Planning ahead is best if possible.   If you have a transmission service in the near future, check out their OEM (AC Delco ULV) fluid, usually MUCH less than anywhere else.
    • New member here, very long time occasional guest. Saw this thread, thought it would be a good time to contribute someting. It is only my experience and not a claim that everyone will have the same.   I bought my '20 3500 L5P new and have put 99.9% (literally) of it's current ~400k miles on it myself, with over 50% of that towing loads between 4k to 15k, and to me this truck has been nothing short of amazing. For the first 235k I had zero issues, and from there until 321k I replaced a NOx sensor, two failing glow plugs, and three of the notorious injector connectors. I believe this truck is in part, a testament to good luck, but also good care and following a decent maintenance schedule (I also keep meticulous records.) As a result, it looks as good as a well cared for 70k rig, up and down, inside and out.   At some point before that 321k mile mark I began to get a little spooked about the 10L1000, especially the valve body. Word of mouth about potential issues prompted me to jump on the net to sift through all the noise and determine what all the fuss was about. I routinely take long trips, coast-to-coast and points in between, so roadside breakdowns can be '...a thousand miles from nowhere' and a bit of a challenge, and though I had no issues, my guard was up and activated.   And then I stumbled across a chance to salvage some parts off a new 2025 that had been wrecked in transport. I grabbed a few wear items (alternator, pulleys, etc.) and on a whim asked what the ten speeder would cost me. It was cheap...really cheap. I knew some changes had been made in the '24+ version 10L and were supposedly not compatible, but I called service/parts at my local Chevy dealer and asked why and they didn't know. A call to a well known aftermarket transmission outfit revealed it was very likely it would be fine, but to them not 100% sure.   Because it was cheap (really cheap) and I was spooked, I took the chance. Had it installed by a local shop and it worked like a champ, shifted just like the original. At it's first service at 37k, I had the shop put in a Next Gen valve body kit, which after some initial hiccups and rough shifts, smoothed out though with somewhat firmer shifting.   All that said, I have a very serious concern about my newer transmission as just two weeks ago it suddenly began to exhibit a strong reluctance to engage forward or reverse. It was a bit past due anyway so I took it in for service. The reason it was sticking was due to 'glitter' in the fluid clogging the filter...not good folks, often indicates a converter giving out. We ended up going ahead with the new filter and fluid, first to see if it would move and shift, and then if so buy me a little time. It did, and I've driven it over a thousand miles and it is shifting smooth, no noises or slipping. Regardless, it looks like a third gearbox is in my future so I can resume taking long trips with some confidence. In the very short term, my curiosity will have me examining the fluid to check how much glitter has reappeared.   An earlier poster had alleged, in the context of 10L100 failures, that it is another example of how we seasoned citizens somehow descend into hysteria, lose control of our senses, and react irrationally after brief encounters with the idiocy of the internet infosphere. Let me say (and I have used and abused said internet since it's infancy) there is no segment of the populace that has a corner on over-reaction to digital garbage. Just as my offering of experience in this arena is purely anecdotal and should not be considered gospel or all-encompassing, I believe it is still worthwhile information to consider, along with other relevant anecdotal experiences about things like complex transmissions, especially when balanced with other sources.   So to answer the original question, yes I got high miles out of my first 10L, trouble free for 321,000. Now I really wonder how much longer it would have went. Did I 'overreact' to the internet ghouls by replacing a 'good' one with a 'bad' one? Maybe. Who knows, the thing might have taken a puke a 100 miles later. So I'll just fix it again, then move on and start thinking about all the other stuff that will eventually wear out. It still has the original brakes (they're at ~60%), original injectors/pump, turbo, water pump, etc....pretty much original everything. Knock on wood.
    • At peak temperature.  They get to cool down and warm up more, especially those with the external cooler.  I have three GMT900s and one of them has over 225K on its original transmission.  Fluid gets changed about every 36K miles, all of it.     It's not the bean counters, it was the government.  They had to meet CAFE standards and other government requirements.   To get around that, we tune them and modify them to our liking.
    • Our customers' safety isn't something we take lightly. To ensure you get the proper assistance for your truck's repairs, please fill out the form at https://s.chevy.com/support-request with all pertinent details including your username.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...